18 Foods That Thrive in Cheap 5-Gallon Buckets

Growing your own food doesn’t require a big yard or fancy planters – sometimes, all you need is a cheap 5-gallon bucket and a bit of creativity. Imagine stepping onto your balcony or back porch and plucking sun-ripened tomatoes or crisp lettuce from a humble bucket garden. It’s small-space gardening at its finest: budget-friendly, immensely rewarding, and surprisingly productive. In this guide, we’ll walk through 18 different vegetables, herbs, and fruits that thrive in 5-gallon buckets, proving that anyone can cultivate a bountiful home garden with minimal space and money. Let’s dive into the bucket gardening revolution with practical tips, inspiration, and expert insights to get you growing. (Psst – stick around for the FAQ at the end, where we answer common questions like “Can I grow strawberries in buckets?” and more!)

How to Grow More with 5-Gallon Buckets – If you’re new to bucket gardening, check out our in-depth guide on maximizing yields in small spaces for even more tips and tricks.

1. Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum)

Growing tomatoes in 5-gallon buckets is a classic container gardening move – and for good reason. Why do tomatoes grow so well in buckets? Tomatoes have deep roots that appreciate the roughly 1-foot depth of a bucket, and the confined space keeps their growth in check while still providing enough soil for nourishment. Gardening expert Melinda Myers even notes that a 5-gallon bucket “is perfect for a tomato”milorganite.com in terms of size. Buckets also warm up quickly in the sun, which tomatoes love, and can be moved to catch optimal light.

Planting Instructions: Start with a sturdy food-safe 5-gallon bucket (free from previous chemicals – many restaurants give away pickle buckets!). Drill 5–10 drainage holes in the bottom to ensure excess water escapes. Fill the bucket with a high-quality potting mix blended with compost (avoid heavy garden soil). Plant one tomato seedling per bucket, burying the stem up to the top few leaves to encourage extra root development. Step-by-step:

Prepare the Bucket: Drill drainage holes and optionally line the bottom with a thin layer of gravel or broken pottery for drainage.
Fill with Potting Mix: Use a rich, well-draining mix. (Tip: A mix designed for containers or an organic vegetable mix works best – this is a great time to invest in a premium potting soil for healthy growth.)
Plant the Tomato: Dig a deep hole and plant your tomato seedling so that about 2/3 of the stem is buried (tomatoes can grow roots all along their buried stem!). Firm the soil and water well.
Add Support: Insert a tomato cage or stake at planting time. Buckets might be small, but your tomato will grow tall – a support cage keeps it upright and productive.

Sunlight & Watering: Place your tomato bucket in full sun (6-8+ hours of sunlight). Tomatoes are sun-lovers and will get leggy with too much shade. Water consistently – aim to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. In hot weather, buckets can dry out quickly, so check daily. A good rule is to water deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Because nutrients wash out of containers faster, feed your tomato every 2-3 weeks with a balanced tomato fertilizer or liquid plant food (diluted according to label). This keeps leaves green and fruit production high. (For an organic boost, see our Step-by-Step Guide to Making Liquid Fertilizer at Home to brew your own plant food.)

Harvesting Tips: In a bucket, tomatoes often produce earlier since the root zone stays warm. Harvest tomatoes when they’re fully colored (red, yellow, etc., depending on variety) and slightly soft to the touch. Pick regularly to encourage more fruit. If you see yellowing leaves or issues like blossom end rot, don’t fret – bucket tomatoes are easy to troubleshoot. (In fact, many bucket gardeners swear by a little Epsom salt in the water to add magnesium and prevent yellow leavescanadianedshop.comcanadianedshop.com – see 8 Amazing Uses of Epsom Salt for Tomatoes for more on that tip.)

Companion Plants: While a single tomato plant will occupy the whole bucket, you can companion plant by placing buckets near each other. For example, plant basil in its own bucket and sit it next to your tomato – basil is famously a great friend to tomatoes, reputed to enhance flavor and repel pests like mosquitoes. Marigolds in another bucket or pot can also help deter nematodes and pests from the area. Just avoid putting incompatible plants in the same container. (Remember the old saying: “Tomatoes hate cucumbers” – they don’t share well due to similar nutrient needs and potential disease spreadmilorganite.com. It’s best to give each its own bucket rather than mixing these two in one.) For more smart pairing ideas, check out Tomatoes Hate Cucumbers: Companion Planting Secrets.

Extra Container Tip: Use a mulch! Adding a layer of straw, shredded bark, or even dried leaves on top of the soil in the bucket can help retain moisture on hot days and keep the roots cooler. This means less frequent watering and happier tomato plants. Also, if you live in a very hot climate, consider shading the bucket itself or using a white bucket to avoid overheating the roots (dark-colored buckets can get surprisingly hot in direct sun).

2. Peppers (Capsicum annuum)

Whether you love sweet bell peppers or spicy chilies, peppers thrive in 5-gallon buckets. Peppers generally have a compact root system, making them ideal for container life. In fact, the Oregon State University Extension notes that a 5-gallon bucket (or similar size container) works well for a single pepper plantextension.oregonstate.edu. Buckets offer enough depth (typically ~12 inches or more) for pepper roots and allow you to position these heat-loving plants in the warmest, sunniest spot available. Plus, peppers in buckets can be moved indoors or to shelter if an unexpected cold snap hits early or late in the season.

Why They Grow Well: Peppers don’t mind a slightly “snug” root environment. In a 5-gallon bucket, they often set fruit faster because the soil warms up around the roots, and you can maintain ideal moisture easier than in-ground where rain can flood them. The controlled soil also means you can give them the perfect potting mix and avoid soil-borne diseases. Horticulture experts highlight that peppers are among the top veggies for container growingextension.oregonstate.edu – they truly don’t require an expansive garden bed to produce abundantly.

Planting Instructions: Use one bucket per pepper plant for best results (crowding more than one can stunt them). Ensure your bucket has good drainage holes. Fill it with a quality potting mix amended with compost or slow-release fertilizer formulated for vegetables. Transplant a pepper seedling (or sow a couple of seeds and thin to one) in the center of the bucket. Plant it at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot – peppers don’t need to be buried deep like tomatoes. Water it in well. If you’re planting a tall variety, insert a stake now for future support (many peppers stay bushy and short, but some hot peppers or leggy varieties appreciate a stake or small cage).

Sunlight & Watering: Give peppers full sun – at least 6 hours, but 8+ hours yields best growth and lots of peppers. They relish warmth; if you have a reflective wall or a corner that traps heat, that’s a great spot for a pepper bucket. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. A good soak 1-2 times per week is usually fine early on, but in summer you may need to water every other day as the plant gets bigger and thirstier. Watch for the leaves to slightly wilt as a sign it’s time to water, but try not to let it wilt frequently (stress can reduce yields). Using a self-watering insert or a tray under the bucket can help maintain moisture if you’re away. Also, peppers benefit from a feeding of balanced fertilizer or compost tea every month or so to keep producing new blooms and fruits.

Harvesting Tips: Harvest peppers when they reach the desired size and color. Many pepper varieties start green and then mature to red, yellow, orange, or purple. You can pick them green (unripe) or wait for the sweeter, often more nutrient-rich mature color. Use scissors or pruners to cut peppers off the plant rather than yanking (to avoid breaking branches). By picking regularly, you encourage the plant to set more blossoms. In buckets, peppers can keep fruiting well into fall; if it gets chilly, simply move your bucket indoors overnight or to a warmer microclimate to extend the season.

Companion Plants: Good companions for peppers (in nearby buckets or planters) include basil (again – it’s a wonderful multi-purpose companion), onions or green onions, and marigolds. Basil can help repel thrips, and marigolds deter root pests. Avoid planting peppers near fennel or kohlrabi, which can stunt them. Each pepper should have its own bucket, but you can cluster multiple buckets together to create a beneficial microenvironment (grouping plants can raise humidity slightly which peppers enjoy). If you’re growing both hot and sweet peppers, keep a bit of distance or label them clearly – they won’t cross-pollinate enough to affect this year’s fruit, but the next generation seeds could be surprises!

Container Gardening Tips: Peppers appreciate warmth – if your spring nights are still cool, wait to put your pepper buckets outside until temperatures are reliably above 55°F (13°C) at night. If needed, you can start the buckets indoors by a sunny window or under a grow light, then move them out when it warms up. One bonus of bucket-grown peppers: fewer pests like slugs (which can’t climb the smooth bucket easily) and better protection from soil diseases like phytophthora. Still, keep an eye out for aphids or spider mites on pepper leaves. A quick spray of soapy water or a gentle wipe of leaves can keep those in check. For more ideas on protecting your bucket veggies naturally, see our article on Natural Insect Defense in the Garden – it’s full of tips to keep pests away without harsh chemicals.

3. Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus)

Believe it or not, cucumbers can be grown in 5-gallon buckets with excellent results. These vining plants are typically thought to sprawl across the ground, but with a little vertical support, a single cucumber plant will happily live in a bucket and produce dozens of crunchy cukes. The key is choosing a compact or bush variety, or training vines upward so they don’t overwhelm their container. The payoff is fresh cucumbers even on a patio or apartment balcony!

Why They Thrive in Buckets: Cucumbers have fairly shallow roots (most roots are in the top 12 inches of soil), so a bucket’s depth is sufficient. They do need room to spread vines, but that can be vertical space instead of ground space. By growing in a bucket, you can also provide loose, rich soil that cucumbers adore, and keep them away from ground pests. Additionally, containers can be placed in ideal sunny spots and even moved to shade in extreme heat (cucumbers sometimes get bitter if heat-stressed). Container-grown cukes often have fewer disease issues like powdery mildew because of better air circulation when trellised up. As expert gardener Melinda Myers advises, “Train vine crops up trellises and supports” to save space and reduce diseasesmilorganite.com – this definitely applies to cucumbers in buckets.

Planting Instructions: Select a variety labeled “bush” or “compact” cucumber for easiest results (these will have shorter vines). If you have a standard vining type, no worries – just be prepared to trellis. Plant 2-3 cucumber seeds in the bucket (spaced a few inches apart) or transplant one healthy seedling. If multiple seeds sprout, thin to the strongest one or two plants; two cucumber vines can share one bucket if you provide enough water and nutrition, but one will usually produce better. Place a trellis or stake in the bucket at planting time. This could be as simple as sticking in some bamboo stakes in a teepee shape or tying twine to a fence or railing. Another idea is to position the bucket against a sunny wall and put a mesh or wire trellis behind it for the cucumbers to climb. Fill the bucket with a rich potting mix (cucumbers are heavy feeders – mix in slow-release organic fertilizer or compost). Ensure good drainage as always.

Sunlight & Watering: Cucumbers need full sun (6-8 hours). However, in very hot climates, they appreciate a little afternoon shade or at least attentive watering to prevent wilting. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist – cucumbers are about 95% water, and any drought stress can lead to bitter or misshapen fruits. During peak summer, you might water daily; large cucumber plants in buckets can drink a lot. A layer of mulch on top of the soil (such as straw or dried grass clippings) can significantly reduce evaporation and keep the roots cool. Feed your cucumber every 2-3 weeks with a balanced vegetable fertilizer. Once the plant starts flowering, you can switch to a fertilizer slightly higher in potassium (the “K” in N-P-K) to encourage lots of fruit. If you notice only flowers and no cucumbers, you might lack pollinators on a balcony – you can hand-pollinate by dabbing the center of male flowers and then female flowers with a small paintbrush. Usually, though, bees will find your bucket cucumbers quickly!

Harvesting Tips: Harvest cucumbers when they reach the desired size. For pickling varieties, that might be when they’re 3-5 inches, for slicing cukes, 6-8 inches or so. Don’t let cukes over-ripen on the vine (they’ll turn yellowish and seedy) because the plant will slow down production. In a bucket, cucumbers often produce continuously if you keep picking. Check vines daily – those sneaky cukes seem to appear overnight! Use pruners or pinch the stem an inch above the cucumber to harvest (avoid tugging the vine too much). If powdery mildew or other foliar diseases show up, trim off the affected leaves to keep it from spreading – the plant can still survive and set fruit with a bit of care.

Companion Plants: Great companions for cucumbers include dill and nasturtiums (which repel cucumber beetles) – these could be grown in separate small pots placed near your cucumber bucket. Radishes are another companion often recommended to deter pests; some gardeners even start radish seeds in the same bucket a couple weeks before the cucumbers, then harvest the radishes once the cucumber vine needs the space. Since cucumbers like similar conditions as squash and melons, avoid grouping them with potatoes or aromatic herbs like sage (which prefer drier conditions). Keep the cucumber bucket close to a flowering plant or two (even a pot of marigolds or alyssum) to attract pollinators for better yields.

Container Tips: Provide a sturdy support early on. As the cucumber grows, gently tie the vine to the trellis or stake using soft garden ties or strips of cloth, guiding it upward. This not only saves horizontal space but also keeps fruits cleaner and straighter. An added benefit: vertical vines get better airflow, reducing disease. If you notice your cucumber leaves turning pale or yellow, they might be hungry for magnesium – a common trick is to dissolve a tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and use it to water the plant (magnesium boosts the vibrant green and photosynthesis). Also, be vigilant about cucumber beetles even in container gardens; these yellow and black striped pests can find plants anywhere. Using a lightweight row cover fabric over the bucket for the first few weeks can prevent them from laying eggs; remove it once flowers appear to allow pollination.

4. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

For quick and easy harvests, it’s hard to beat lettuce in a bucket. Lettuce has a shallow root system and actually prefers the cozy quarters of a container where soil stays consistently damp and fertile. You can grow head lettuces or loose-leaf varieties right on your porch in a 5-gallon bucket and snip fresh salads as needed. Plus, bucket lettuce is easy to shield from harsh sun or hungry rabbits – just pick it up and move it, or cover it if needed.

Why It Grows Well: Lettuce is naturally compact and doesn’t need deep soil (6-8 inches of depth is often enough, though a bucket gives ~12 inches). In a bucket, you can control the soil quality – a loose, loamy mix will yield tender leaves. Lettuce also thrives in the cooler seasons of spring and fall; having it in a portable container means you can start it earlier (by bringing it into a garage on frosty nights) or extend the season by moving it to shade or indoors during heat waves. The bucket acts almost like a mini raised bed, which is great for lettuce since it hates waterlogged soil but loves moisture – good drainage plus frequent watering is easy to manage in a container.

Planting Instructions: For leaf lettuce, you can sprinkle a pinch of seeds across the surface of your bucket filled with moistened potting mix. Press them lightly into the soil (they need light to germinate) and keep moist. Thin the seedlings to avoid overcrowding – or better yet, harvest the thinnings as baby greens for sandwiches. For head lettuce (like romaine or butterhead), plant 2-3 seedlings spaced evenly in the bucket, or in a triangle pattern, and you’ll get a few mature heads. Another method: cut-and-come-again – plant a mix of loose-leaf lettuce seeds thickly and once they grow a few inches tall, start trimming leaves with scissors for your salad bowl. They will regrow several times. Make sure your bucket has drainage holes, and consider a lighter-colored bucket for lettuce if you’re growing in hot weather (to keep roots cooler). Lettuce doesn’t require a lot of fertilizer upfront; mixing some compost into the soil at planting time is usually enough.

Sunlight & Watering: Lettuce prefers full sun in cool weather, but in late spring or summer, it benefits from part shade (especially in the afternoon). A bucket makes it easy to move your lettuce into a spot that gets maybe 4-6 hours of morning sun and then shade later – this can prevent it from bolting (going to seed) too quickly in warm temperatures. Keep the soil consistently moist. Lettuce has high water content and will get bitter if allowed to dry out. Check daily; the leaves will usually start to droop if they’re thirsty. Because buckets drain well, you might need to water every day in warm conditions. However, avoid waterlogging – ensure excess water can flow out. Using a water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength every couple of weeks can keep lettuce growing lush (too much fertilizer might cause more growth but less flavor, so don’t overdo it).

Harvesting Tips: Harvest leaf lettuce by snipping outer leaves when they reach 4-6 inches long. Always leave the center growth so the plant keeps producing. You can continually harvest this way for weeks, moving from plant to plant. For full heads, wait until they form a nice head and cut the entire plant at the base. Another approach is the “cut and come again” – cut all the leaves about 2 inches above soil level; many lettuce varieties will regrow for a second or third cut. Because lettuce in a bucket is so accessible, you can harvest in the cool early morning for crispest leaves (hot midday harvesting can make leaves limp). Rinse and chill your lettuce and enjoy the incredible sweet, homegrown flavor. If a lettuce plant starts to send up a tall stalk (bolting), harvest it immediately – the leaves will soon turn bitter once it flowers. At that point, it’s best to pull the plant out and replant fresh seed for a new crop.

Companion Plants: Lettuce mixes well with other shallow-rooted, quick crops. You could plant radishes around the edges of the bucket and lettuce in the center – radishes will mature and be pulled out just as the lettuce needs a bit more space. Alternatively, interplant some green onions (scallions) among lettuce; they grow upright and don’t crowd the lettuce, and you get two crops in one bucket. Herbs like dill or cilantro that enjoy cooler weather can also share space with lettuce in a big container since they have deeper roots (just be mindful that herbs might grow taller and cast shade). Marigolds or nasturtiums can be nearby companions to deter pests. Generally, lettuce is so short-lived and undemanding that it doesn’t compete heavily with others – just avoid planting it directly with very large or root-heavy plants. Giving lettuce its own bucket or grouping with only small companions ensures it doesn’t get shaded out or root-bound.

Container Tips: One advantage of bucket gardening lettuce: you can move it to chase ideal conditions. If a heat wave is coming, move your lettuce bucket to a cooler, shadier spot (even indoors under a fan during peak heat) to prevent bolting. Conversely, if an unexpected cold snap or late frost threatens, just bring the bucket inside for the night. Also, consider succession planting – sow a few new lettuce seeds or seedlings in a fresh bucket every 2-3 weeks while the weather is favorable. This way, as one bucket’s lettuce crop is ending (or has bolted), a new bucket will be ready to harvest. This rotation keeps you in salads continuously. Lettuce doesn’t mind crowding too much if you’re harvesting leaves frequently, but adequate airflow is key to prevent fungal issues. If you see mildew or rot on lower leaves, thin out the plants a bit and ensure they’re not too soggy. Lastly, watch out for slugs/snails – they can climb buckets. A strip of copper tape around the bucket or keeping the bucket on a raised stand can deter those slimy leaf-munchers. For more pest deterrent tricks, the Natural Insect Defense in the Garden guide has additional ideas like using garlic or other natural repellents around your containers.

5. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

Spinach is another leafy green that adapts wonderfully to container life. In fact, growing spinach in a 5-gallon bucket can give you a steady supply of tender greens for smoothies and sautés with minimal effort. Like lettuce, spinach has shallow roots and grows quickly, making it perfect for succession planting and early spring or fall gardens. The bucket allows you to control soil quality and move the plantings out of harsh weather, which spinach appreciates since it dislikes extreme heat.

Why It Thrives: Spinach enjoys cool, consistent conditions. In a bucket, you can ensure the soil is rich in organic matter and drains well, which spinach loves (it doesn’t do well in heavy clay or waterlogged ground). Also, buckets can be started indoors or in a protected spot to get a jump on the season and then relocated. Because you can situate the bucket in partial shade as temperatures climb, you might eke out a longer harvest before bolting. And practically, a bucket placed at table height or on a bench makes harvesting those little leaves much easier on your back!

Planting Instructions: Fill your bucket with a mix of potting soil and compost. Sow spinach seeds about 1/2 inch deep. You can scatter a bunch of seeds and later thin them, or plant in a grid pattern (e.g., 3-4 inches apart). Spinach doesn’t mind being a bit crowded if you plan to harvest baby leaves, but for larger leaves give each plant room. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate (spinach can be finicky to sprout in warm conditions; it germinates best in cool soil around 50-60°F). If starting in warm weather, germinate seeds indoors or in a cool spot. Thin seedlings to avoid overcrowding – aim for at least 3 inches between plants for baby leaf harvest, more if you want big plants. Unlike some other veggies, spinach doesn’t require a deep container; the 5-gallon bucket’s depth is more than enough, but that extra soil volume helps keep roots cool and moist. No need for stakes or trellises – spinach stays low.

Sunlight & Watering: Spinach grows well in full sun during cool months, but in late spring try partial shade. For example, 4 hours of direct sun plus bright indirect light can yield good spinach and may prevent it from bolting quickly. If your bucket can be placed where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade, that’s ideal as weather warms. Keep the soil evenly moist. Spinach is not drought-tolerant – dry spells will cause it to bolt (send up a seed stalk) in a hurry. Check soil moisture daily; the top should stay damp to the touch. Because buckets drain well, you might water every 1-2 days. Avoid splashing water on leaves if possible (to prevent disease); water at soil level or use a watering can with a narrow spout. Spinach is a relatively light feeder – if you prepared soil with compost, you might not need additional fertilizer for a short 6-8 week lifespan. If leaves look pale or growth is slow, a dose of fish emulsion or balanced liquid fertilizer can perk them up. Be careful not to over-fertilize, as excessive nitrogen can cause spinach to accumulate nitrates (and also can lead to more pest issues on lush growth). A little boost mid-season is fine.

Harvesting Tips: Begin harvesting spinach once leaves are a few inches long. For baby spinach, you can pinch off outer leaves from each plant, taking what you need and letting the rest grow. The plant will continue producing new leaves from the center. Alternatively, do a “cut and come again” harvest by shearing all plants down to about 2 inches tall – they may regrow for a second harvest if temperatures remain cool enough. For larger, mature leaves or specific varieties (like Bloomsdale long-standing spinach), pluck individual leaves from the outer rosette, leaving the inner ones to size up. Harvest in the cool morning for best texture. If you notice any plant starting to form a thick stem or little clusters (preparing to bolt), harvest that one entirely right away – bolting makes leaves bitter. Spinach in buckets can be moved to a cooler spot if it seems like they’re bolting too soon. Fresh spinach is highly perishable after picking, so pick right before you plan to use it, or refrigerate it promptly.

Companion Plants: Spinach is a good team player – it can be sown alongside slower-growing plants like broccoli or cauliflower in a larger container (spinach will be harvested before those need all the space). In a 5-gallon bucket, you might intercrop spinach around a young pepper or eggplant transplant; by the time the larger plant grows, the spinach is done. Spinach also benefits from neighbors like radishes or lettuce that have similar needs. Just be cautious with all-in-one-bucket mixing – spinach roots are shallow, so a deeper-rooted companion could work (like a carrot or green onion in the center, with spinach around). One interesting pairing: strawberry and spinach – some gardeners tuck a few strawberry plants in the middle of a wide pot and plant spinach around the edges, getting two crops at once. Since our focus is buckets, you might not have room for that combo in one bucket, but you can certainly cluster a spinach bucket near your strawberry bucket. Avoid planting spinach near peas or beans if they’ll tangle – though actually peas provide partial shade which spinach might appreciate. In separate buckets, feel free to group spinach with any other cool-season crop. It’s also known to be a good companion to brassicas (cabbage family), possibly helping to deter some pests when interplanted.

Container Tips: Since spinach has a short season (it doesn’t last long once heat arrives), plan to succession sow. Start a bucket in early spring, then another a couple weeks later, etc., so you have a continuous supply of tender leaves. Once a bucket’s spinach is finished (bolted or mostly harvested), you can replant that same bucket with another crop (like beans for summer, or a fall planting of more spinach or lettuce). This makes efficient use of your container. Also, consider using shade cloth draped over or around the bucket as weather warms – even 30% shade cloth can drop the temperature a few degrees and prolong the life of your spinach. If growing in fall, start seeds in late summer indoors (when it’s too hot outside for germination) and transplant into the bucket outdoors as soon as nights cool down. Watch out for leaf miners (tiny larvae that tunnel in the leaves leaving white trails) – if you see those, remove affected leaves and consider covering the bucket with a light row cover to keep the adult flies away. Spinach in a bucket can actually avoid a lot of common soil pests and diseases, so you’re likely to have a very successful harvest. Enjoy those homegrown greens!

6. Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica)

Kale, the hardy super-green, is perfectly suited to bucket gardening. This leafy vegetable is both edible and ornamental, often thriving in containers on patios. A single 5-gallon bucket can host one or two kale plants that will produce tender baby leaves for salads or larger mature leaves for cooking over many months. Kale is more drought-tolerant and pest-resistant than some other greens, making it beginner-friendly in containers. Plus, it laughs at cold weather, extending your bucket harvest into late fall or even winter.

Why It Thrives: Kale has a fibrous root system that can adapt to container life as long as it has enough soil volume to draw nutrients and moisture. A 5-gallon bucket provides ample depth for kale’s roots (which might go 8-12 inches deep) and the width to allow for a full, bushy top growth. Growing kale in a bucket means you can place it in ideal sun (it enjoys full sun in cool weather, but tolerates partial shade, especially in heat) and also move it under shelter if cabbage worms or other pests become an issue (or easily cover it with netting). The controlled environment of a bucket also lets you have rich composty soil which kale loves for producing those vitamin-packed leaves. Many gardeners with limited space report great success with container kale – even Niki Jabbour, a container gardening expert, grows kale in fabric bags on her deck with excellent yieldssavvygardening.com.

Planting Instructions: Fill the bucket with a mix of potting soil and well-rotted compost or manure (kale is a heavy feeder). Plant 1-2 kale seedlings per bucket, depending on the variety (curly kale and Tuscan kale can get quite large, so one per bucket might be best; dwarf varieties could do two). If sowing from seed, plant a few seeds 1/2 inch deep and thin to the strongest plant(s) after they germinate. Space them out so they each have room to grow a rosette of leaves without overcrowding. Kale likes cool temperatures to start, so you can set out your bucket in early spring or even late winter (if it’s above freezing, kale can handle it). Ensure good drainage in the bucket to prevent root rot. There’s usually no need for stakes or supports as kale stems are sturdy, but if you let it grow very tall, a central stake could help in strong winds.

Sunlight & Watering: Give kale full sun in spring and fall. In summer, especially in warm climates, some afternoon shade will prevent wilting and bitterness (kale can actually survive summer heat but tastes better grown in cooler seasons). Aim for at least 4-6 hours of direct sun for optimal growth. Water consistently – kale doesn’t like to dry out completely. In a bucket, water when the top inch of soil is dry. During cool weather, that might be every 3-4 days; in hot weather or if the plant is large, every 1-2 days. Kale leaves will noticeably droop if too dry, and bounce back after a good soak – but try not to let it get to the wilting point often. Feeding kale is important for continuous leaf production. Mix a slow-release organic fertilizer into the soil at planting or use fish emulsion or compost tea every few weeks. Because you’ll be harvesting leaves regularly, the plant will benefit from replenishing nutrients. If leaves start to look pale or yellowish, that’s a sign to feed. Also, kale can handle frost (and even tastes sweeter after it), so keep your bucket outside into late fall, just ensuring the soil doesn’t totally freeze solid if you want to keep harvesting.

Harvesting Tips: You can start harvesting baby kale leaves when they are 3-4 inches long by pinching off the outer leaves. For larger leaves, allow the plant to grow 8-10 leaves; then pick the oldest, outer leaves as needed. Always leave at least 4-6 central leaves so the plant keeps growing. Kale will continuously produce new leaves from the top center. If you have one kale per bucket, it can get quite large – up to a few feet tall – and produce a lot. Don’t be afraid to harvest frequently; regular picking actually encourages new growth, much like pruning. You might even end up with a “palm tree” effect: a tall stem with the remaining leaves up top, which is fine. If the stem gets too leggy, you can always plant something decorative around it in the bucket, like a few pansies or trailing herbs to cover the bare stem – kale won’t mind a little company at its base. Watch for the tell-tale small holes in leaves which indicate caterpillars (like cabbage worms); if present, simply wash the leaves well and hand-pick any worms you find. You can also use an organic Bt spray if they become a problem. Kale in a bucket is easy to inspect for pests. Harvest leaves before they get old and tough; compost any that yellow or get chewed up too much. In cold weather, kale leaves can sometimes take on a purple tinge – that’s normal and often signals super sweet flavor due to sugars increasing as a natural antifreeze.

Companion Plants: In a bucket, you’ll likely keep kale by itself or with a small friend due to its size. If you want to interplant, consider low-growing, shallow-rooted companions like leaf lettuce or spinach around the edges while the kale is young – they will mature quickly and be harvested by the time the kale needs space. Another idea is planting chives or garlic chives in the same bucket; they can help repel some pests (onion/garlic family deterring pests is a trick in the garden). Calendula or marigolds in a nearby bucket can also repel insects and brighten up your container garden. Avoid planting other brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc.) right next to kale in containers, as they attract the same pests and compete for similar nutrients – better to separate them so an outbreak on one doesn’t spread easily to the other. Since kale can last a long time (it’s biennial, usually grown as annual but can overwinter), you might even underplant it with a few spring bulbs like crocus in the same bucket for fun – by the time kale is big, the bulbs are done. This is more ornamental though; most importantly, choose companions that won’t shade out your kale or steal too much root space.

Container Tips: Kale is hardy. If you have a mild winter, your bucket kale might survive through it; you can keep harvesting on warm days. In colder zones, you can extend the season by wrapping the bucket with burlap or bubble wrap to insulate roots and covering the plant with a light row cover or even a plastic tote overnight during hard frosts. It’s possible to keep kale alive down to 20°F (-6°C) or below with protection, and it will resume growing in spring for a second year (though it will want to flower that second year). Often, it’s simplest to replant each year, but it’s a fun experiment. Another tip: because kale is a long-season crop, watch the soil level in your bucket over time – it can settle or deplete. Top-dress with compost halfway through the season to add nutrients and keep the soil level up. This also encourages new feeder roots. If you encounter aphids (look for curled leaves or sticky residue), a quick remedy is to spray the kale leaves (tops and undersides) with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap, then rinse after an hour or so. In a bucket, you can even dunk the entire kale plant (hold the soil in with your hand) in a tub of soapy water to thoroughly get rid of aphids – try that in a ground garden! Container growing gives you these kinds of advantages for pest control. With minimal care, your bucket-grown kale will reward you with continual superfood greens for soups, salads, and kale chips galore.

7. Carrots (Daucus carota)

Carrots in a bucket? Absolutely! Growing carrots in 5-gallon buckets is an excellent solution if your garden soil is rocky or clay (which causes forked, ugly carrots). In a nice deep bucket filled with loose mix, carrots can grow straight and beautiful. Even though carrots are a root crop, many varieties don’t actually need more than 10-12 inches of depth, which a bucket provides. From crunchy orange classics to colorful purple or yellow carrots, you can harvest a sweet crop right outside your kitchen door.

Why They Grow Well: One of the main challenges with carrots is ensuring loose, rock-free soil for their roots to develop without obstruction. A bucket allows you to create the perfect soil mix – fluffy and stone-free. As Homes & Gardens expert Ruth Hayes says, “many people find it easier to grow carrots in containers of compost” to avoid debris that cause roots to forkhomesandgardens.com. Additionally, container carrots can be placed in ideal sun and kept consistently moist, leading to better germination and root growth. Buckets also can deter gophers and other underground pests that might plague in-ground carrots. And if you’re short on space, a bucket of carrots can even be placed in a small corner or balcony, then moved if needed (though moving is best done when they’re still small to avoid disturbing root formation).

Planting Instructions: Choose a carrot variety that fits the container. Shorter varieties like Chantenay, Nantes, or round “Parisian” carrots do especially well in buckets. But even longer types (some grow 8-10 inches long) can work since a 5-gallon bucket is usually about 12 inches deep – just ensure you have that depth of soil. Fill the bucket with a lightweight potting mix – you might even add extra perlite or sand to ensure it’s very loose. (Avoid heavy compost chunks or un-sifted soil; fine texture is key for straight carrots.) Sow carrot seeds thinly on the surface and cover with about 1/4 inch of fine soil. Carrot seeds are tiny and can take 1-3 weeks to germinate, so be patient and keep the soil moist by misting or gentle watering (you could lay a piece of burlap or cardboard on top for the first week to hold moisture, removing it once seedlings peek up). Once the seedlings are a couple inches tall, thin them out so that each carrot has about 1-2 inches of space around it. Thinning is crucial; crowded carrots will be stunted or oddly shaped. It might feel like you’re sacrificing potential plants, but those thinnings can be used as microgreens in a salad! Aim to end up with perhaps 15-25 carrot plants in a bucket, depending on variety and spacing. No need for supports or trellis – carrots are all below ground work.

Sunlight & Watering: Situate the carrot bucket in a sunny spot, ideally getting 6 or more hours of sun. Carrots do tolerate partial sun (4-6 hours), especially in hotter climates, and too much heat can cause them to taste bitter, so a little afternoon shade in mid-summer is fine. The key for carrots is consistent moisture during root development. Uneven watering (letting them dry, then soak, then dry) can cause the roots to crack or split. Check the soil often; if the top is drying out, water gently. As the carrot roots grow deeper, ensure water penetrates – you should see water come out the drainage holes at each watering, which signals full soil saturation. That might mean a quart or two of water per watering session for a bucket. Carrots don’t need heavy feeding; too much nitrogen can lead to abundant leafy tops at the expense of roots. If your potting mix had fertilizer or compost mixed in, they should be fine. Perhaps add a bit of balanced fertilizer once when tops are ~4 inches tall. One trick: use a root fertilizer or one slightly higher in phosphorus (the middle number) to encourage robust root growth. But in general, carrots are low-maintenance feeders. More important is to keep that soil loose – do not press down on the soil at any point; let the carrots push as they need.

Harvesting Tips: Most carrots will be ready to harvest in about 60-75 days, but this varies by variety (check your seed packet). You’ll know they’re getting mature when the carrot shoulders (tops of the roots) begin to show at the soil surface and reach a diameter close to the expected size (maybe 1/2 inch to 1 inch across). You can gently brush away a little soil at the top to peek at their size/color. To harvest, grasp the carrot tops at the base and wiggle the root as you pull upward. If it’s resistant, use a small hand trowel or even just your fingers to loosen the soil around it, or tip the bucket a bit. In super loose bucket soil, carrots often pull up easily. Harvest what you need, when you need it – carrots can actually be left in the soil past maturity and pulled as needed (especially in cooler weather, they store well in-ground). If you planted all at once, they might all reach maturity together; you can harvest them all and store in the fridge or layered in damp sand. Alternatively, for a continuous supply, succession plant a new round of seeds every few weeks in another bucket or the same bucket after first harvest. One caution: carrots are sweetest when harvested in cool conditions; a hot summer carrot might be less sweet, but still great for stews or roasting. If you planted in spring, try to finish harvests before the intense heat of mid-summer, or plan a late summer planting for a fall harvest (fall carrots that mature in chilly weather are often super sweet).

Companion Plants: In the bucket, you’ll likely just have carrots, possibly with a quick crop like radishes on top of them early on. Actually, a common technique is to sow radish seeds along with carrot seeds – radishes germinate and grow faster, breaking the soil crust and marking the rows, and they’ll be harvested in about 30 days, giving the carrots more space as they start sizing up. This can be done in a bucket too. Outside the bucket, consider placing it near green onions or chives – their odor can confuse carrot rust fly (a pest). Carrots also enjoy the company of peas (peas add nitrogen to soil), so maybe having a pea bucket nearby is nice, and marigolds reputedly help repel some root maggots and nematodes, so a marigold in the same bucket or a neighboring one could be beneficial and pretty. According to some companion planting lore, carrots and tomatoes are good neighbors (tomatoes may help disguise the scent of carrots from pests), so you could circle your tomato bucket with one or two carrot buckets. Just avoid planting dill or fennel near carrots – those herbs can release chemicals that may stunt carrot growth or attract carrot pests. Also, cilantro left to flower can attract beneficial insects that prey on aphids which sometimes affect carrot tops.

Container Tips: One of the best things about bucket carrots is pest control. You can easily cover the bucket with a fine mesh or row cover right after planting to prevent any carrot rust flies from laying eggs (these flies’ larvae chew tunnels in roots). Keep it covered until harvest, since carrots don’t need pollination (we eat the roots). If using a cover, ensure it still gets sunlight and you water through it or take it off to water. Another tip: after sowing carrot seeds, keep the soil surface moist – you can lay a wet newspaper or burlap over the soil until seeds sprout; just check daily. Carrot germination can be the trickiest part, but once they’re up, you’re golden. In hot weather, avoid letting the bucket’s soil overheat – you might wrap the bucket in white cloth or reflective material if under intense sun, or move it to a slightly cooler spot in afternoon. Carrots can tolerate a light frost, so spring or fall chills are fine; you can even keep a bucket outside into late fall and harvest as needed (just don’t let it freeze solid or you may need a hammer to get your carrots out!). If your carrots end up a bit small or twisted, don’t be discouraged – it often means they needed more thinning or the soil wasn’t loose enough. Adjust for the next round. Even those imperfect carrots will taste great in soup. With practice, you’ll be pulling up straight, store-worthy carrots from your bucket like a pro, and perhaps echo expert Christine Walkden’s sentiment that carrots “romp away in well-drained soil” when given the right container conditionshomesandgardens.com.

8. Radishes (Raphanus sativus)

Radishes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in a bucket – and among the fastest to harvest. If you’re craving quick results, radishes will go from seed to plate in as little as 25 days, even in a 5-gallon container. They’re small root veggies that don’t need much depth at all (most varieties only penetrate a few inches of soil), so a bucket is more than sufficient. Plus, radishes can be grown almost year-round except the hottest months, giving you a continuous rotation crop to fill gaps between other harvests.

Why They Thrive: Radishes prefer loose soil and cool temperatures, both of which a bucket can provide. You have complete control over soil texture – no stones or clods to cause mis-shapen radishes – resulting in plump, round roots. Also, growing in a bucket means you can start them early in spring (even indoors or in a sheltered spot) and move them out once the weather is mild, or bring them into part shade if late spring sun gets too intense. Radishes don’t like excessive heat; they’ll bolt and become spicy. With a bucket, you can literally pick it up and move it to chase the best conditions. Additionally, radishes germinate well in containers because the potting mix retains moisture evenly. They are also rarely bothered by pests in containers – root maggots can be an issue in ground soil, but fresh potting mix in a bucket is usually pest-free, especially for such a quick crop.

Planting Instructions: Fill your bucket with a fine-textured potting mix (radish roots are small, so clumpy soil will hinder them). Sow radish seeds about 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart in all directions. You can essentially sprinkle them then lightly rake your fingers through the soil to cover. For standard round radishes, a 5-gallon bucket can accommodate quite a few – perhaps 30 or more radishes – just avoid heavy crowding so each root can size up. If all seeds germinate too thickly, thin them early by pulling out some seedlings (you can eat the sprouts in salads). Radishes like to grow quickly; if they’re overcrowded or nutrient-starved, they’ll stay small. Water after sowing and keep the soil consistently moist during germination, which takes just 3-7 days. Because radishes grow so fast, you generally don’t need to fertilize mid-grow (it’s actually better not to give too much nitrogen, or you’ll get lush leaves and tiny roots). If your mix had compost or fertilizer pre-mixed, that’s sufficient for one radish crop. Ensure the bucket’s drainage holes are clear – radishes won’t bulb well in waterlogged soil.

Sunlight & Watering: Radishes prefer full sun in cool weather, but as temperatures warm, they do fine in partial shade. Aim for at least 4-6 hours of sun. In spring, maximum sun is great; in late spring or summer plantings, a little afternoon shade can prevent stress. Water is crucial – radishes that dry out will turn woody or split. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout their short growing cycle. Check daily; since the bucket is relatively small, it can dry faster than ground soil. However, don’t overwater to the point of sogginess, which can cause roots to rot. A simple test: stick your finger in up to the first knuckle – if it’s dry at that depth, water. If you planted radishes in early spring, rainfall might handle a lot of the watering, but do monitor since a bucket can drain faster. If heavy rain is forecast, you could even move the bucket under cover to avoid saturating them (radish roots can split if they go from very dry to very wet rapidly). As for feeding, usually none is needed for such a quick crop. If reusing the same soil for multiple radish successions, mix a little balanced fertilizer or fresh compost between plantings to replenish nutrients.

Harvesting Tips: Because radishes mature quickly, mark your calendar or check them often around the expected harvest date. You’ll see the shoulders of the radishes pushing up at the soil line when they’re about ready. You can also gently brush soil aside to gauge their size. Harvest radishes promptly once they reach a good size (typically about 1 inch diameter for round radishes, or per packet instructions). If left too long, they can get pithy (hollow/spongy) and overly spicy. Grasp the radish top and pull straight up – in a loose bucket mix, they should come out easily, bringing that satisfying pop of a bright red (or purple, white, etc.) globe. Harvesting is fun for kids, too, like a treasure hunt in a bucket. If a radish resists, use a small garden fork or even an old kitchen fork to pry around it. You can harvest all at once or pick a few each day as needed – radishes hold well in soil for a short period, but try to get them out before they start flowering (bolting). If you see any flower stalks forming, pull those plants immediately; the root will stop developing once they bolt. After harvesting, cut off the leaves (which are edible too, great in pesto or sautés) and store the radish roots in the fridge to keep them crisp. If you didn’t thin perfectly, some radishes might be small – you can still eat them (they might be extra zesty) or let them grow a bit longer if space permits. For continuous harvests, plan to sow a new batch of radish seeds every 2-3 weeks, using the same bucket or rotating to a second bucket. They grow so fast that by the time one batch is finishing, the next can be starting.

Companion Plants: Radishes make wonderful companions because they’re short-term and can occupy the spaces between slower plants. In a bucket scenario, you can sow radishes around a longer-season plant. For example, if you have a bucket with a young eggplant or pepper seedling, sprinkle radish seeds in the open soil around it. The radishes will be ready to harvest by the time the eggplant gets big. This maximizes the use of space and provides a bonus crop. Radishes also reportedly repel some pests like cucumber beetles (some gardeners interplant radish with cucumbers or squash). Even if you don’t co-plant in the same bucket, you could place a radish bucket near squash plants as a trap crop for pests. Because radishes are related to cabbages (brassica family), avoid planting them in the same container as cabbage or kale to prevent shared diseases or pests – but near each other in separate buckets is fine. They pair well with carrots and lettuce as well; as mentioned, radishes can be sowed with carrots – in a bucket of carrots, you might sow radishes along the edges. The radishes will break soil crust and mark rows, then you pull them and let carrots continue. Essentially, radishes get along with most veggies because they’re in and out so quickly. Just ensure the main bucket occupant (if any) is compatible with frequent watering and the timing of radish harvest.

Container Tips: If you find your radishes didn’t bulb up well, the likely causes are overcrowding (thin them more next time), lack of light (ensure enough sun), or too much heat (grow in cooler temps). Buckets can actually help alleviate the heat issue by letting you move them to a cooler spot. Some gardeners even start radish buckets indoors under lights during summer – radishes don’t require pollination, so you could theoretically grow them entirely inside or on a windowsill if it’s not too hot. Another tip: try different radish varieties for fun. Cherry Belle is the classic red radish, but there are Easter Egg radishes (various colors), French Breakfast (elongated), white icicle radishes, etc. All can do well in containers. If you want to grow the larger Asian daikon radishes, you might only fit a few in a bucket since they need more depth – consider a deeper container or focus on the small types in a 5-gallon. Since buckets are portable, one cool trick is to use them seasonally – for example, start a bucket of radishes in very early spring (even indoors), then as soon as it’s warm enough, put it outside. Harvest those radishes in April, then use the same bucket and soil (with a nutrient refresh) to plant a pepper or another summer plant. Later, come fall, maybe plant radishes again in that bucket after the summer crop is done. They are the perfect “filler” crop to keep your containers productive between main seasons. And don’t forget: radish greens are edible. If you end up with some radishes that got too spicy or woody, let them flower – the blossoms will attract pollinators, and even the seed pods of radishes are edible and taste like spicy peas. Bucket gardening allows these kinds of experiments in a controlled way. All in all, radishes are nearly foolproof in containers – a satisfying project for beginners and a quick reward for any gardener.

9. Beets (Beta vulgaris)

Beets are another root crop that perform surprisingly well in containers. If you love sweet, earthy homegrown beets, try growing them in a 5-gallon bucket. You’ll get not only the flavorful roots but also a bonus: beet greens that you can harvest as nutritious leafy greens. Beets have moderate root depth (most types grow bulbs 2-4 inches in diameter and a taproot a bit deeper), so a bucket provides enough depth and plenty of space width-wise for a cluster of beet plants.

Why They Thrive: Like carrots and radishes, beets prefer loose soil without obstacles. In a bucket, you can give them fluffy, stone-free growing medium, resulting in uniform round beets. Also, buckets allow you to control moisture – beets need consistent moisture for proper development and to avoid getting tough. In heavy clay ground soil, beets might struggle, but in a potting mix environment they can reach full potential. Beets also do well in densely planted “rows” which you can simulate by scattering seeds in a bucket and thinning. Additionally, you can move the bucket to optimize sun or protect from extreme heat (beets like sun but can get stressed by very high temperatures). And because beets are susceptible to soil-borne diseases like scab in some soils, using a sterile potting mix avoids that issue.

Planting Instructions: Fill the bucket with a rich mix of potting soil and compost. Beet seeds are actually clusters (each “seed” often contains 2-4 seeds), so when they germinate you’ll see multiple seedlings from one spot. Sow beet seeds about 1/2 inch deep, spaced a couple of inches apart. If you want to be methodical, aim for a grid of seeds that gives each beet about 3 inches of space in all directions eventually. But you can also oversow a bit and plan to thin. Keep soil consistently moist until germination (which takes about 5-10 days). Thin the seedlings once they’re a couple inches tall so that ultimately each cluster of sprouts is thinned down to the strongest single plant. This usually means snipping or gently pulling extras so there’s roughly 3 inches between remaining seedlings. Thinnings can be transplanted if you do it very carefully (with enough root) or easier, just add them to your salad – baby beet greens have a mild, spinach-like taste. In a 5-gallon bucket, you might comfortably grow perhaps 8-10 beets (for larger varieties) or more if you harvest some early as baby beets. Ensure the bucket drains well, as beets will suffer in waterlogged conditions.

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun (6+ hours) is generally best for beets, leading to good root formation and lush greens. In warm climates, they can handle part sun (4-6 hours) especially if that avoids the harshest afternoon rays, which can sometimes cause the roots near the surface to get too hot or dry. A bucket can be shifted as needed – early spring beets love sun, summer beets might need a touch of shade. Water consistently to keep the soil moist but not swampy. As the beetroots start swelling, even moisture is key; irregular watering might cause them to crack or develop concentric rings of different texture. Typically, a deep watering 1-2 times a week in cool weather, increasing to every other day in hot weather, is sufficient. Feel the soil a couple inches down – it should be slightly damp most of the time. Mulching the top of the soil with a thin layer of straw or shredded leaves can help retain moisture and keep the root zone cool. Fertilize beets lightly – too much nitrogen will favor leaves over roots (unless you primarily want greens). It’s a good idea to mix organic fertilizer into the soil before planting or use a balanced slow-release. Partway through the growing cycle (maybe around 4-6 weeks in), you can feed once with a balanced soluble fertilizer or side-dress with a little compost to keep them going. If leaves look pale or growth is slow, they might need a feeding. But often, potting mix has enough nutrients for one beet crop, especially if compost was added.

Harvesting Tips: Beets are usually ready to harvest in 6-8 weeks for most varieties (sooner if you want baby beets, longer for some heirloom or larger types). A key sign of readiness is the size of the bulb visible at the soil line – if you can see a plump root top 1.5 to 2 inches across, it’s likely ready. You can carefully dig around one beet to check size. Harvest by grasping the base of the greens and pulling upward while maybe using your other hand or a small trowel to loosen the soil at the sides. In a loose bucket mix, they often come out easily. Harvesting is easier when the soil is a bit moist (but not sopping). If it’s very dry, water first to soften it. You can take beets out one by one as needed, or pull the whole crop at once. If pulling incrementally, try to take the largest ones and leave smaller ones to size up a bit more (just don’t disturb those remaining too much). Beet greens are fully edible and delicious – you can harvest a few young leaves from each plant during growth to use like chard or spinach, just don’t remove all the leaves from any one plant or you’ll stunt the root growth. When harvesting the root, you get a bonus bunch of greens too; cut them from the root, and they’ll keep a few days refrigerated (or cook them immediately – they’re so nutritious). If some beets are left in the bucket too long, they may get woody (especially in heat). Try to harvest before that – typically under 2.5-3 inches diameter is ideal for tenderness. If your beets are small despite a long time, likely they were too crowded or needed more nutrients. But even golf-ball sized beets are perfectly fine to eat.

Companion Plants: Beets get along with a variety of other plants. In the bucket itself, you could interplant with something like scallions (green onions) or herbs that don’t compete much – perhaps plant a few scallion sets or seeds around the edges of the bucket; they’ll grow upright and not interfere with beet roots, and can deter pests. Some gardeners plant garlic chives or garlic cloves with beets to ward off animals and pests. Beets also do well in proximity to bush beans (beans can add nitrogen to soil which helps leafy growth). If you have a bean planted in the center of a bucket and beets around, that could work, although usually we dedicate the whole bucket to beets for simplicity. One traditional companion for beets is kohlrabi or broccoli because they root at different depths, but fitting those together in one bucket is not recommended (broccoli/kohlrabi would overshadow beets). Instead, you can place a beet bucket near your broccoli bucket and they’ll be fine. Avoid planting beets in the same container as pole beans or field mustard; beans can inhibit beet growth if too close (though bush beans are okay a bit further off), and mustard greens can release substances that hinder beets. Also, because beets are in the chenopod family (with chard and spinach), they share similar nutrient needs; some advice says they grow well near each other, but in a bucket you might not combine them due to space competition. Perhaps more importantly, don’t mix beets with large root competitors in one bucket (like carrots or potatoes) – each needs its own space. Keep the beet bucket’s soil dedicated to beets or tiny companions like scallions or lettuce interplanted (leaf lettuce can be grown among beets and harvested young, as they don’t impede the roots much).

Container Tips: If you plan well, you can get multiple beet crops from one bucket in a year. For example, sow in early spring for a late spring harvest, sow again in late summer for a fall harvest. You can even overwinter beets in place by keeping the bucket in a cold frame or garage; they’ll sit dormant if it’s cold enough and you can harvest as needed (or they might start growing again as it warms). One challenge in containers can be temperature control – on a very hot patio, the bucket soil might get warm which beets don’t love. Try shading the sides of the bucket or moving it during heat waves. Also, if heavy rain or storms come, small beet seedlings could be disturbed, so temporarily moving them under cover can protect the soil from splashing out and seedlings from getting battered. Use those bucket mobility perks! Watch out for a few pests: leaf miners sometimes affect beet greens (you’ll see white squiggly trails in leaves) – if that happens, remove affected leaves and dispose of them; covering the bucket with a row cover can prevent the adult fly from laying more eggs. Flea beetles might chew tiny holes in leaves; they usually don’t kill the plant, but you can deter them with neem oil or by companion planting with strong-smelling herbs. Fortunately, beet roots themselves often avoid pests in containers. After harvesting your beets, that soil can be re-used for a less demanding crop, or rejuvenated with compost for another round. It might be slightly depleted of phosphorus (root growth uses a good bit), so add a tad of bone meal or all-purpose organic fertilizer before the next planting. With the vibrant beet reds and purples, a bucket of beets can even be decorative on your patio. And when you roast your own homegrown beets or toss the fresh greens into a stir-fry, you’ll taste the sweet success of bucket gardening!

10. Green Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris)

Fresh green beans (snap beans) are a container garden favorite, especially bush varieties that stay compact. A 5-gallon bucket can grow bush beans very well, yielding plenty of tender pods for the dinner table. Even pole beans, which climb, can be grown in a bucket if given a trellis – they’ll just need more vertical space. For our purposes, bush beans (often labeled “container” or “dwarf” beans) are ideal because they don’t require tall supports and they produce quickly. Think crunchy string beans right from your patio!

Why They Thrive: Beans have fairly shallow roots (most in top 6-8 inches), so they don’t require deep soil – a bucket is just fine depth-wise. They also enrich their own soil; beans are legumes that form associations with bacteria to fix nitrogen, improving soil fertility. This means they aren’t heavy feeders and can do well even in average potting mix. Bucket growing allows you to give beans warm soil (they germinate and grow faster in warm conditions), and you can relocate the bucket to maximize sun. Additionally, container beans often have fewer issues with ground pests and diseases. By providing rich, well-draining soil in the bucket, you avoid the compaction or poor drainage that can hinder beans in some gardens. Expert container gardeners even suggest that climbing beans can thrive in containers with a simple added trellissavvygardening.com – so the bucket environment is proven for beans.

Planting Instructions: If planting bush bean seeds, you can probably fit about 3-5 bean plants in a 5-gallon bucket. Space them evenly (imagine a dice 5 pattern or X pattern). Plant seeds about 1 inch deep. Sow them after all danger of frost when the weather is warm, because beans won’t germinate well in cold soil. If you prefer, you can start with seedlings, but beans generally sprout so easily from seed that direct sowing is simplest. Ensure your bucket has drainage and is filled with a good potting mix (beans aren’t too picky, but they do appreciate some compost mixed in). Water after planting and keep the soil moderately moist until germination (which usually happens in 7-10 days). If planting pole beans, maybe plant 3 seeds around a central bamboo teepee or small trellis inserted into the bucket at planting time (so you don’t disturb roots later). Pole beans need vertical support – you could even set the bucket against a fence and string twine up the fence for them to climb. Bush beans, however, will form a self-supporting little “bush” about 1-2 feet tall, no staking needed typically. It can be helpful to succession plant another bucket a few weeks later to extend your bean harvest, since bush beans tend to produce a big flush of beans and then taper off.

Sunlight & Watering: Beans love full sun – aim for 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. They will tolerate part sun (maybe 5 hours) but yield might be lower. Warmth is key: buckets in full sun will warm the root zone nicely, which beans like (optimal temps for growth are 70-85°F). Watering should be regular. Beans prefer evenly moist soil but can suffer if waterlogged. In a bucket, usually that’s easy to manage with drainage holes. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Bush beans will start flowering and setting pods quickly, and they need water especially during flowering and pod fill to get nice juicy beans. In hot weather, container beans might need water every day or two, as their leaves can wilt in intense sun. Try not to overhead water the foliage in the evening (to prevent diseases like powdery mildew or rust); water at soil level or earlier in the day so leaves dry off. As for feeding, beans typically don’t require much fertilizer – too much nitrogen can actually result in more leaves than beans (since they fix some nitrogen themselves). If your potting mix had no fertilizer at all, you could add a balanced slow-release at planting or a small dose of all-purpose fertilizer when they start flowering, but often the compost in mix plus their nitrogen-fixing ability suffices. If leaves look pale, a light feeding with a fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer can help. They also appreciate some potassium for good flowering (some wood ash in the soil or an organic bloom fertilizer could be used lightly).

Harvesting Tips: Bush beans usually start producing about 50-60 days from seeding, sometimes sooner for certain varieties. Harvest green beans when the pods are plump but before the seeds inside bulge too much (you want the pod to be fleshy and the inner seeds still small for best tenderness). This is generally when pods are about as thick as a pencil, depending on variety. Simply grab the pod and give a little snap or use scissors to avoid tugging the plant. Beans tend to set in flushes – you might pick a handful every day or two once they get going. Frequent picking is important: the more you pick, the more beans the plant will produce. If you leave mature pods on the plant, it will get the signal to stop flowering (thinking it’s done its job of making seed). So keep those pods picked to encourage continued bloom. If you want some dried beans or seeds for next planting, leave a couple pods at the very end to mature and dry out. For pole beans, the same frequent harvesting applies; they often produce over a longer period continuously. Check the plants daily as beans can go from tender to oversized in just a day or two in warm conditions. The advantage of bucket-grown beans is they’re at a nice height to harvest – no bending all the way to the ground. After the main flush, bush bean plants might look a bit tired; you can remove them and replant a new batch (especially if mid-summer, you can plant another round for fall harvest). Or sometimes bush beans will take a brief break and then give a smaller second flush of beans. If the foliage still looks healthy, try feeding and watering well after the first big harvest, and you might get more flowers.

Companion Plants: Beans pair nicely with many other plants and often help their neighbors by enriching soil nitrogen. In a bucket, you might not mix too much else with bush beans because they fill the space, but one strategy is to plant a few radishes or lettuce around the edges when starting beans. The radishes will mature before the bean plants get too bushy and can be pulled out, and lettuce could be harvested as baby greens early. Also, bush beans are short – so you could have a taller plant in the center and bean plants around if the timing works (for instance, a dwarf tomato in center and beans around edge, but 5-gallon might be a bit tight for that combo). Perhaps better to give beans their own bucket though. Nearby companions in other buckets that benefit beans include carrots and beets (which enjoy the nitrogen beans add to soil; in rotation or close proximity this helps). Beans also don’t love too much allium family in their own soil, but having a bucket of garlic or onions nearby can repel bean beetles. Just avoid planting beans with plants that have drastically different needs – e.g., beans like consistent moisture, so don’t pot them with a drought-loving herb like rosemary. Also, keep in mind beans can fix nitrogen, but they only “share” it fully once the plant decomposes or through the soil – so if you plan a crop that needs nitrogen after beans, use that bucket’s soil for a heavy feeder like leafy greens next. Companion planting lore suggests beans and marigolds are a good combo (marigolds deter nematodes and pests), so having a marigold in the same bucket or adjacent could be beneficial and attractive.

Container Tips: One thing to watch with beans in buckets is support. While bush beans don’t vine, they can sometimes flop a bit when loaded with pods. If you notice branches leaning over, you could stick a small cage or a few twigs in the bucket for support, or even tie some soft string around the plants to hold them upright. It’s usually not a big issue, but if space is tight on your patio, keeping them tidy might be desired. For pole beans, definitely provide a trellis – a tripod of three stakes tied at the top can work well stuck in a bucket. Container-grown beans also may avoid some common garden issues like rabbits (which love bean plants) and ground rot. Do keep an eye out for spider mites in hot, dry weather (if undersides of leaves get tiny red specks and webbing, spray with water or insecticidal soap). Aphids might appear on tender new growth; again, a quick soapy water spray or just squishing them can control that. Bean leaves sometimes get spots from fungal diseases especially if watered from above late in day – container placement can help by keeping them in good airflow. If disease hits one batch, don’t reuse that soil for another batch of beans; rotate to a different crop in that bucket and use fresh mix for new beans to avoid carryover. Lastly, after harvesting, the spent bean plants can be chopped up and composted – but note that their roots have little nitrogen nodules that will enrich the soil. Some gardeners will actually just cut the plant at soil level and leave the roots in the soil to break down and release nitrogen (especially for next crop). In a bucket, you could try this and then top up with some new mix and plant, say, some lettuce or kale for fall, taking advantage of the bean’s soil boost. Fresh green beans grown in a bucket taste just as delicious as those from a big garden – and often you get them sooner because the container warms up fast. Enjoy those crunchy pods straight off the plant – one of the joys of summer!

11. Peas (Pisum sativum)

Sweet garden peas are a delight to grow and snack on, and they too can flourish in a 5-gallon bucket. Whether you prefer snap peas, snow peas, or shelling peas (English peas), all can be grown in containers. Peas are cool-season plants, often one of the first crops planted in spring. A bucket allows you to get them going even earlier by starting indoors or in a protected spot, then moving outside. Peas are vining by nature (even “bush” pea varieties tend to sprawl a bit), so providing some support in the bucket will help maximize your yield and keep the plants healthy.

Why They Thrive: Peas have relatively shallow roots (most within 8 inches of the surface), so they don’t need deep soil – perfect for a bucket. They also fix nitrogen similar to beans, which means they aren’t heavy feeders and can improve the soil for later crops. In a container, you can ensure peas get well-drained soil; they dislike soggy feet, which can cause rot. Bucket planting also makes it easy to protect peas from their biggest challenge – sometimes warming spring soil – since you can start the bucket in a warmer location or cover it. As expert Niki Jabbour mentions, even vining veggies like peas can thrive in containers with a simple trellis addedsavvygardening.com. Peas actually do well slightly crowded, and in a bucket you can achieve that density while still controlling conditions. Another benefit: rabbits and ground critters love pea shoots, but a bucket is easier to guard or keep elevated out of harm’s way.

Planting Instructions: Peas are usually direct-sown from seed. In a 5-gallon bucket, you can plant them fairly intensively – for example, sow seeds about 2 inches apart in all directions, maybe in a grid or simply evenly spread (as long as each has a little room). They’ll climb upwards mostly, so you can have quite a few in one container. Ensure the bucket has good drainage holes and fill with a potting mix enriched with some compost (though not too rich in nitrogen, as peas fix their own; too much N could lead to lots of foliage, fewer peas). Plant seeds about 1 inch deep. Because peas germinate best in cool (but not cold-soaking) conditions, you might pre-sprout them by soaking seeds overnight and then planting, or just be patient; they’ll sprout in 1-2 weeks depending on temp. If it’s still quite chilly, you can cover the top of the bucket with plastic wrap or a plastic lid (with a few air holes) to create a mini-greenhouse until they sprout. Once seedlings are a couple inches tall, provide a support trellis. For bush peas (short varieties maybe 2-3 feet tall), a short trellis or even some twigs stuck in the bucket can suffice. For taller varieties, use bamboo canes or a small section of wire fencing rolled into a cylinder inside the bucket. You could also put the bucket against a railing and let peas climb that. The tendrils will grab onto whatever is nearby. If they have nothing, the plants will flop over, so do give them a net, strings, or any lattice to climb – you’ll get cleaner, more productive vines. You can thin the seedlings lightly if they all come up and it looks like a jungle; leave maybe 10 plants that will climb nicely. If starting with nursery pea seedlings (less common, but sometimes available), plant them at the same depth they were in their pots, spaced out in the bucket.

Sunlight & Watering: Peas like full sun in spring (which is typically mild), but as the weather warms, they don’t mind part shade especially during hot afternoons. Aim for at least 5-6 hours of sun. Too much heat will shorten their productive period (they are a cool-season crop). One trick with containers: you can start peas in full sun, then when summer arrives and they’re still producing, move the bucket to a spot with a little shade to extend their life. Water peas regularly but be cautious not to overwater early on. They sprout in cool, damp conditions but won’t tolerate waterlogged soil. Once established, water when the top inch is dry. They have a fairly high water need when flowering and filling pods – keep soil evenly moist during that time or else pods may be small or misshapen. However, avoid constantly wet soil; they do best with moist but well-drained conditions. In containers, you may need to water more often as late spring days get warmer – maybe every other day or so. Yellowing lower leaves can indicate too much water (or sometimes not enough – check soil to discern). Fertilizer: Peas generally don’t need much feeding. A little bone meal mixed in can help with flowering/fruiting (phosphorus), but they usually find what they need if some compost was in the mix. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer – it’s not necessary and can reduce fruiting. If the plants look a bit weak or pale, a light dose of fish emulsion or all-purpose fertilizer when they start to vine can give a boost, but often container soil has enough for their short growing cycle.

Harvesting Tips: Harvest peas when the pods are plump (for snap and shelling peas) or when flat but well-formed for snow peas. Generally, pick early and often. For snap peas (edible pod variety like sugar snaps), the pod should be filled out with peas but still shiny green and tender – taste one to judge sweetness and texture. For shelling peas (English peas that you remove from pods), wait until pods are nicely rounded but not so mature they lose their bright green color; overripe pods get dull and those peas turn starchy. Snow peas (the flat ones) should be picked when pods are elongated but before peas inside swell much. Use two hands when picking – hold the vine with one hand and pull the pod off with the other, to avoid yanking the whole vine (they’re somewhat fragile). Pea plants tend to produce over a few weeks. Each flower gives one pod, and if you keep removing pods, the plant will try to produce more flowers (to make seeds). In bucket culture, you might find the flush is strong and then tapers. Once weather gets hot (consistently above 75°F), peas often slow or stop flowering. You can extend by providing shade or just enjoy the season and then compost the plants. Another tip: if you keep peas well-picked and the plants stay healthy, sometimes they’ll revive a bit in late summer if kept alive, or you can attempt a fall pea crop by planting again in late summer for fall harvest (especially in containers since you can manage their environment somewhat). The pea greens (tendrils and young shoots) are also edible and delicious – you can snip a few tendrils for salads or stir-fries without hurting the plant too much (just don’t defoliate them entirely). When pea production ends, you can cut the vines at the base and toss them in compost; the roots left in the bucket will release nitrogen as they break down, benefitting the next thing you plant there.

Companion Plants: Peas fix nitrogen, so they’re great to precede or accompany hungrier plants. In the same bucket, there’s not a lot of room for other crops once peas are growing. However, some people plant a few radish or spinach seeds in the bucket with peas early on, which can work since peas grow upright and radish/spinach can occupy some ground space early (harvested before pea vines get too dense). You could also edge the bucket with a dwarf marigold or two which might help deter pests and add color (peas have pretty white flowers, but marigolds add yellow/orange and help with soil pests). Just avoid heavy feeders or tall plants with peas in one bucket – peas don’t like root disturbance or shade from other plants. Nearby in other buckets, good companions are carrots, beets, turnips – traditionally the “Three Sisters” companion planting involves corn, beans, squash (though that’s beans not peas), but for peas, think of pairing with things like carrots or radishes which enjoy the extra nitrogen peas provide. Since peas climb, one creative idea: place your pea bucket in the middle and surround it with other bucket veggies that are lower-growing, so the peas can climb up something (like a central trellis) and not shade out others too much. Peas also coexist well with mint or cilantro in close quarters – but I wouldn’t share a bucket, rather a neighboring pot. A caution: don’t plant alliums (onions, garlic) in the same container as peas; they can stunt legumes if root-intertwined. But having an onion bucket nearby is fine if the roots aren’t mingling.

Container Tips: Peas enjoy cooler weather and can handle light frosts. Using your bucket advantage, you can sow peas indoors in late winter in the bucket, then move it outside when it’s just warm enough – essentially giving you a head start. If a hard freeze threatens, just bring the bucket into a shed or garage overnight. Peas typically aren’t grown in mid-summer, but if you want to try a fall crop, start seeds in a shaded cool area (or indoors) in late summer and once they germinate, keep the bucket where it gets cooler morning sun and afternoon shade to nurse them along until fall weather arrives. Watch for pests like aphids, which love pea shoots – you might see clusters of tiny green aphids on tender tips. Blast them off with water or use insecticidal soap. Powdery mildew can strike peas, especially in containers that get warm – it looks like white powder on leaves. Prevent by ensuring good airflow (don’t crowd seedlings too much, have that trellis support), and if it appears, remove affected leaves and consider a milk-water spray or neem oil to slow it. But often by the time mildew hits, peas are near done anyway. Another benefit of buckets: you can place them to avoid high mildew risk (for example, avoid placing peas in a super humid, stagnant air corner). After pea season, the soil in the bucket will be richer in nitrogen, perfect for a follow-up planting of a leafy crop like lettuce or kale. That’s efficient container crop rotation! Growing crunchy peas in a bucket is not only possible, it’s quite fun – you might find yourself sitting on the porch, picking peas straight off the vine and eating them raw, because they’re so sweet when super fresh. That experience is one of the joys of edible gardening in any space.

12. Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum)

Homegrown potatoes are often touted as a perfect candidate for bucket or container growing. Gardeners have grown potatoes in everything from sacks to trash cans, so a 5-gallon bucket is definitely capable of producing a nice little crop of spuds. While a single bucket won’t yield bushels of potatoes, it’s a satisfying way to grow a few meals’ worth, and harvesting them is as easy as dumping out the bucket – no digging required! Potatoes do have deeper roots than many veggies on this list, but clever techniques like “hilling” (adding soil as they grow) allow even a 5-gallon bucket to accommodate their needs.

Why They Thrive: Potatoes thrive in loose, well-drained soil and often suffer in compacted or rocky ground. A bucket lets you provide fluffy growing medium and adjust the depth as the plant grows. Additionally, container potatoes can avoid soil-borne diseases (like blight or scab) that might be present in garden soil. Expert growers note that growing potatoes in buckets is a great way to experiment and reduce disease risk, plus it makes the plants portableepicgardening.com. The bucket warms up the soil earlier in spring, encouraging faster growth. And because you’re effectively “raising” the soil level by filling the bucket gradually (if using the hilling method), you encourage more tubers to form along the buried stem. Also, pests like voles or certain insects find it harder to get to container potatoes. In short, buckets give you control over conditions – clean soil, good moisture control, and easy access for harvest.

Planting Instructions: Select a potato variety that is known to do well in containers. Early or mid-season potatoes that set tubers faster are good choices (like Yukon Gold, Red Norland, or fingerling potatoes). Seed potatoes (pieces with eyes) can be used. Many bucket growers will plant one or two seed potatoes per 5-gallon bucket – it sounds minimal, but potatoes need space to develop. If using larger seed potatoes, cut them into chunks with 1-2 eyes each and let them callus overnight before planting. For planting, there are two approaches:

Standard planting: Fill the bucket about 1/3 full with potting mix enriched with compost (ensure drainage holes!). Plant the seed potato about 4 inches deep in that soil (so maybe on top of 2-3 inches of soil and then cover it with another 2-3 inches). Water lightly. As the potato sprout grows and emerges, continue to add soil or straw around the stem (this is called “hilling up”) leaving just a bit of the top growth exposed. Keep doing this until the bucket is filled to about inches from the top. This encourages the plant to produce roots (and hence potatoes) along the buried stem section. Eventually, the bucket will be full of soil and hopefully many hidden potatoes.
Layering method: An alternative is starting with just a bit of soil, adding seed potatoes, then as it grows, adding layers of say straw or mix gradually. Essentially the same idea, just staged differently. Some people even start with the bucket half full, plant potatoes, then top it up gradually.

Either way, the goal is to simulate the practice of hilling in ground. Only fill the bucket to the brim once the plant is tall; you want new tubers always covered to prevent them from turning green (green = exposed to light, which makes them inedible). Make sure you don’t bury the entire plant too deep at once, or it might struggle; bury in stages as it grows. Usually, one seed potato can yield several tubers in a bucket. It’s tempting to plant more pieces, but overcrowding will result in many tiny potatoes or just a stressed plant. Stick with 1-2 pieces, 3 at most if they’re small and you’re okay with smaller taters. Use a quality potting mix – some like to mix in some sand or perlite for extra drainage because potatoes don’t like soggy conditions. Also mix in a slow-release organic fertilizer or some bone meal (for tuber development) at planting, since they’ll feed on that over the growing period.

Sunlight & Watering: Potatoes prefer full sun (6-8 hours). They grow best with lots of light and warmth on their foliage, but keep in mind the black plastic of many buckets can heat the soil too much in peak summer – if possible, choose a light-colored bucket or shade the bucket itself while keeping the plant in sun. Consistent moisture is critical for potatoes; uneven watering can cause issues like cracks or hollow heart in tubers. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Early in the season, you might water every few days; as the plant gets large and summer hits, a daily check is prudent – container potatoes can dry out quickly once the foliage is big and transpiring lots of water. Mulching the top of the soil with straw after final hilling can help retain moisture and keep the soil cooler. Avoid letting water sit in the bottom; proper drainage is a must to prevent rot. Regarding feeding: potatoes are moderate to heavy feeders, especially of phosphorus and potassium for tuber formation. If you didn’t incorporate a slow-release, you can feed them with a balanced or slightly higher potassium fertilizer when the plants start flowering (that’s when tubers really begin to bulk up). But don’t overdo nitrogen as that can make the plant put out too much leafy growth at the expense of potatoes. Often, compost in the mix plus some bone meal and maybe a side dress halfway through is sufficient.

Harvesting Tips: You have two opportunities to harvest potatoes: “new” potatoes early, or full mature ones later. New potatoes can be harvested usually shortly after flowering begins – these are the smaller, thin-skinned potatoes that taste delicious but don’t store long. In a bucket, you can sneak some out by gently feeling in the soil around the sides once the plant has flowered. Carefully remove a bit of soil and pluck a few young potatoes, then replace the soil. For the main harvest, wait until the potato plant has flowered and the foliage begins to yellow and die back. This typically is 10-12 weeks for early varieties, maybe 12-16 weeks for mid-season. Once the tops are mostly brown and withered, the tubers have likely reached maximum size and have set their skins for storage. Stop watering at this point for a week or so to let the soil dry out; this helps toughen the skins. Now the fun: tip the bucket over onto a tarp or large tray and carefully sift through the soil. You’ll feel like you’re hunting for treasure – and indeed, pulling out each potato is like finding gold nuggets. Make sure to check thoroughly so you don’t miss any (and inadvertently let one rot in leftover soil). If you’re not ready to use them all immediately, allow the potatoes to air dry for a couple hours in a cool, shaded spot to cure a bit. Then brush off excess soil (don’t wash if you want to store them) and keep the potatoes in a cool, dark place. If they’re thin-skinned new potatoes, eat those first as they won’t store long. Any potatoes with green patches (from light exposure) should have those parts cut off before eating, and if they’re very green, discard (green indicates solanine, which is bitter and not healthy to eat). From one bucket with one or two seed potatoes, you might harvest anywhere from a few to a dozen potatoes, depending on variety and care – likely a couple pounds at best. It’s a small haul compared to ground planting, but oh the flavor of just-dug potatoes! And absolutely zero backache from digging. If you want a bigger harvest, simply use multiple buckets!

Companion Plants: In the bucket itself, you won’t really companion plant with potatoes – they fill the container and you’re periodically adding soil, which would bury any companion. It’s best to give them a bucket to themselves. However, you can plan what to do with that soil or bucket next. A common strategy: after dumping out your potato bucket and harvesting, re-use that soil (with some refresh) to plant a quick fall crop like greens. The soil will be nicely aerated (from all those potatoes growing in it) and enriched with some extra organic matter from root remains. Be cautious not to plant another tomato-family crop (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) in the same soil immediately, in case of disease – crop rotation principles still apply in container gardening. As for external companions, marigolds around where you place the potato buckets can deter nematodes, and basil or catnip in nearby pots may repel some pests like aphids or potato beetles to some extent. Speaking of pests, the dreaded Colorado potato beetle can find container potatoes just as easily as garden ones. Check the foliage regularly for yellow-orange clusters of eggs underside of leaves, or for the beetles (yellow with black stripes) or their reddish larvae. Handpick and destroy any you find – container proximity makes it easy to monitor them. This pest aside, you shouldn’t have too many issues with others in a bucket scenario, since slugs or rodents are less likely to get into an elevated or enclosed container. One more note: sometimes people put bush beans or peas in rotation with potatoes to fix nitrogen that potatoes love – you could simulate that by, say, growing peas in early spring in that bucket, then when they finish, use that soil (with the benefit of peas’ nitrogen) to plant your potato for the summer. Or vice versa: after potatoes, use the residual nutrients for a bean crop. Just an idea for rotation.

Container Tips: Choose your bucket wisely – potatoes will produce more in a larger volume, so while 5-gallon works, some people prefer a 10-gallon container or a tall laundry basket, etc., to get higher yields. But 5-gallon is great for an introduction and for small varieties. Ensure at least 4-5 drainage holes; potatoes hate sitting water. One hack: if you have a food-grade bucket, you can cut out the bottom and place it on soil, essentially using it as a mini raised bed that can be lifted – but that defeats portability. For pure container style, bottom intact is fine with holes. During growth, if the plant looks very lush but you worry not many tubers are forming, cut back a bit on nitrogen and maybe prune a few top leaves to encourage energy downward. Also, you can gently feel into the soil (without disturbing roots much) to see if any tubers are near the surface – cover them if so, to prevent greening. If your bucket is outdoors in heavy rain, lay it on its side or bring under shelter if the foliage is very dense and it’s getting waterlogged (potato leaves can get blight if constantly wet, plus too much rain can rot tubers). Container potatoes usually avoid late blight (a devastating disease) unless spores blow in, but if you see black spots rapidly spreading on leaves and stems turning to mush, you might have it – at that point, salvage any unaffected tubers quick and discard the plant material away from other tomatoes/potatoes. Thankfully, this is less common in containers started with fresh mix. Another tip: use food-grade or at least clean plastic buckets, as potatoes are a food crop that will be in contact with the container material and soil for months – you want to avoid any leaching of harmful chemicals. (Many use the standard orange hardware buckets though; just something to consider.) Ultimately, harvesting potatoes from a bucket is a joyous moment – a payoff of burying those seed spuds months ago. It’s a fantastic project to do with kids too, as they can help “unearth” the treasure. And nothing compares to the taste of a potato dug just minutes ago – it’s sweeter and creamier than any store-bought one. Container potatoes show that even without a plot of land, you can still enjoy this staple crop from your own gardening effortsepicgardening.com.

[Related: 8 Amazing Uses of Epsom Salt for Tomatoes –] While potatoes aren’t tomatoes, they are botanical cousins. If you notice your potato plant leaves yellowing too early, it might indicate a magnesium deficiency; some gardeners apply Epsom salt solutions similarly as they do for tomatoes to green them up. You can learn that trick from our tomato Epsom salt guide above.

13. Eggplant (Solanum melongena)

For a touch of the exotic in your bucket garden, try growing an eggplant in a 5-gallon bucket. Eggplants (also called aubergines) actually do quite well in containers because they love warm soil and lots of sun – conditions a bucket can amplify. Varieties like the slender Asian eggplants or compact patio types are especially well-suited, but even a standard variety can produce in a bucket if cared for. Picture harvesting glossy purple (or white, or stripey!) eggplants right off your balcony for a delicious ratatouille or grill-out.

Why It Thrives: Eggplant is a warm-season crop with a relatively modest root system. Horticulturist Melinda Myers notes that peppers and eggplants will thrive in a bit smaller pot than something like a tomatomilorganite.com, meaning a 5-gallon bucket provides plenty of root room. The container’s warmth is a big advantage – eggplant roots love heat. Buckets also help maintain consistent soil moisture which eggplants appreciate to prevent flowers from dropping. Additionally, growing in a container can reduce issues with soil pests like nematodes that sometimes plague eggplants in the ground. And if needed, you can relocate the bucket to chase optimal sun or bring it to shelter if an early cold night threatens, extending your season. Many gardeners report higher yields from eggplants in containers versus in-ground, thanks to that controlled environment.

Planting Instructions: Plant one eggplant per 5-gallon bucket for best results. Start with a healthy seedling (eggplants can be started from seed indoors, but typically by the time you’re filling your bucket garden, you have a transplant ready). Ensure your bucket has good drainage holes. Fill it with a nutrient-rich potting mix; mix in some compost and perhaps a slow-release fertilizer (eggplants are somewhat heavy feeders). Bury the transplant at about the same depth it was in its pot (eggplants, unlike tomatoes, don’t generally need to be planted extra deep, but a tiny bit deeper won’t hurt if the stem is lanky). Firm the soil and water it in well. Eggplants often benefit from support – yes, even though they don’t vine, the plant can become top-heavy with fruit. Consider inserting a stake or tomato cage now at planting time so you can tie the stem as it grows, especially for taller varieties. Compact varieties might not need staking. Place the bucket in a very sunny, warm spot (e.g., near a south-facing wall that reflects heat). If nights are still cool (below 55°F), keep the plant protected or hold off planting outside; eggplants sulk in cold weather and are susceptible to flea beetles when stressed. If you want, you can also mulch the top of the soil with black plastic or dark pebbles to help retain heat early on – this is optional but can jumpstart growth.

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun is non-negotiable for good eggplant production – aim for 6-8+ hours of direct sun. These are sun-loving plants from tropical climates originally. The more sun, the more flowers and fruits (as long as water and nutrients keep up). Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. In a bucket, that often means watering once a day during hot summer periods, or every other day in milder conditions. Eggplant leaves can get quite large and somewhat wilt if underwatered on a scorching day, but they usually perk up by evening if given water. Avoid letting the soil completely dry out, as that can cause blossoms to drop or slow fruit development. On the flip side, don’t let the bucket sit in a tray of water constantly; good drainage must be maintained to prevent root rot. Using a layer of organic mulch (straw, for example) on the soil surface can help conserve moisture and keep roots cooler on extremely hot days, which eggplant actually likes warmth but consistent moisture too. Fertilize eggplant periodically – it’s a somewhat heavy feeder. A balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks or a side dressing of compost mid-season will keep it fruiting. If the plant is not flowering or looks pale green, it likely needs a feeding. Once it starts setting fruit, a bit more phosphorus and potassium helps (some people switch to a “bloom” fertilizer formula once flowering begins). However, if you incorporated slow-release granules at planting, monitor the plant’s vigor and maybe just supplement with a bloom booster later on if needed.

Harvesting Tips: Eggplant fruits (botanically berries) should be harvested when they are glossy and have reached the expected size for their variety, but before the skin becomes dull or the seeds inside turn brown. Glossy skin is a great indicator of ripeness. For standard globe eggplants, that might be when they’re 6-8 inches long and plump; for Japanese types, perhaps 8-10 inches long but slender; for small round ones, maybe 2-3 inches diameter. Always cut eggplants off with pruners or a sharp knife, rather than pulling – the stems are woody and you risk damaging the plant by yanking. Leave a short stub of stem attached to the fruit. Be careful of the little thorns that some eggplant calyxes (the green cap) have; wear gloves or clip carefully. Eggplants can be somewhat continuous in production: the more you pick ripe fruit, the more the plant will try to set new blossoms. If you leave fruits on to over-mature, the plant slows down (and the fruits also become spongy and bitter). So pick them young-ish and often. A neat trick: press the skin with your thumb – if it springs back and doesn’t leave an indent, the eggplant is ripe; if the indent remains, it’s overripe. After harvesting, store eggplants in a cool spot (not too cold, around 50°F – they don’t like refrigeration for long periods, it can damage them). Ideally, eat them fresh within a week for best flavor and texture. Container eggplants often produce 3-5 fruits per plant over a season (for larger varieties), or more if it’s a heavy-bearing type or conditions are excellent. If your bucket plant has tons of flowers but no fruit, check if they’re being pollinated – usually wind and bees do the job, but occasionally indoor-grown or very sheltered ones might need a gentle shake of the plant or hand-pollination with a brush to set fruit. Also, extremely high heat (90°F+) can cause blossoms to drop – container advantage: if it’s facing a heatwave, move the bucket to a slightly cooler spot in late afternoon.

Companion Plants: In the bucket itself, you won’t plant anything else with an eggplant because it will use the space. But nearby companions that can help might include marigolds (to deter nematodes or some pests in general), basil (some say basil improves flavor and growth of peppers and eggplants, plus it repels thrips and other pests; at least it’s a great culinary companion for dishes!), or thyme – there’s some research that thyme can repel certain caterpillars like the eggplant fruit borer. Having a pot of nasturtiums or petunias nearby can attract pollinators and also trap certain aphids. Eggplants share family with tomatoes and peppers, so avoid planting those in the same soil or right next to each other if you’ve had disease issues – in containers with fresh mix, it’s typically fine. They all can be grown in the same vicinity (just not same pot) as long as each has its space, though keep in mind pests like spider mites or whiteflies might hop between them if close. A nice thing about container grouping is you can inspect underside of leaves easily and catch any infestations early. On that note, check for flea beetles – tiny black jumping beetles that make little shot holes in eggplant leaves. These are common on eggplants especially when young. If the damage is minor, the plant usually outgrows it. If severe, consider using yellow sticky traps, diatomaceous earth on the soil, or neem oil spray to reduce them. Also, spider mites can hit eggplants in hot, dry weather (look for fine webbing and speckled leaves) – if so, rinse the foliage or use miticide soap. But having humidity or other plants around can sometimes keep mites at bay (they hate moisture). Strong-smelling herbs like rosemary or mint in nearby pots might also confuse pests. In general, eggplant isn’t too fussy about neighbors as long as they don’t shade it – it wants to be the star soaking up sun.

Container Tips: Because eggplants love heat, consider putting a reflective mulch on top of the bucket soil (like aluminum foil or reflective plastic) early in the season to bounce light and heat up under the leaves – this can boost growth and also deter some pests like flea beetles (they get disoriented by the reflection). Once weather is very hot, you can remove it and mulch with something like straw to conserve moisture instead. Another tip: If you have a dark-colored bucket, that will heat the root zone – which is good to a point, but extreme heat can harm roots, so if you notice the bucket getting scorching to touch, shade the container itself or wrap it in something insulating (even a white cloth) while keeping the plant exposed to sun. Pruning eggplant is usually not necessary, but you can pinch the very tip growth once it’s about 18 inches tall to encourage branching (more branches = more flowering points). Also, remove any withered yellow leaves at the bottom over time to keep plant healthy. If the plant sets a whole bunch of fruit at once and they’re all small, you can remove a couple so the rest get bigger – sometimes container eggplants benefit from thinning fruit if overloaded. But often one plant won’t overburden itself. End of season: if you have a short growing season, you can even bring the eggplant indoors or into a greenhouse when nights get cool – they are actually perennial in warm climates, so you could attempt to keep it alive (with a grow light) over winter and put it out again next year. However, many just compost the plant and start fresh each year due to potential pest buildup. Enjoy the process – seeing a vibrant purple (or neon white or lavender striped) eggplant hanging from a plant you grew in a simple bucket is very rewarding. It’s also a conversation starter on any patio! “You can grow eggplants in a bucket?” people might ask. Yes, indeed – and quite well, as your harvest will prove.

14. Strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa)

Sweet, juicy strawberries can absolutely be grown in 5-gallon buckets, turning a small space into a mini strawberry patch. Strawberries have fairly shallow roots and are often grown in containers, hanging baskets, or specialized strawberry pots. A bucket provides ample root room and the ability to grow multiple strawberry plants together (or one big one that sends out runners). With the right care, you can be snacking on sun-warmed berries just steps from your kitchen. And because strawberries are perennial, you could potentially overwinter them and get harvests for a couple of years from the same bucket.

Why They Thrive: Strawberry plants are compact and do not need deep soil – about 6-8 inches depth is sufficient for roots, so a bucket’s depth is more than enough. Container growing helps control the soil quality, ensuring it’s rich and well-drained (strawberries hate soggy soil). Buckets also raise the plants off the ground, protecting berries from ground-dwelling pests like slugs and many fungal diseases that splash up from soil. As gardening expert Bob Flowerdew advocates, “bigger is better” for strawberry containers and growing in old buckets can yield “massive crops” of berrieshomesandgardens.com. Each plant has plenty of room for its root system, which can translate into lots of blooms and fruit. The bucket can be moved to chase sunlight or give midday shade in scorching weather, helping to extend the fruiting season. Additionally, buckets can be outfitted with holes on the sides to create a tiered strawberry planter (though that’s more a “strawberry tower” concept; with a single bucket, you’ll likely plant on top only, but multiple plants). Using a bucket, you can also more easily protect your berries from birds (by draping netting over the bucket) – much simpler than netting an entire garden bed.

Planting Instructions: Start with healthy strawberry plants – either bare-root runners or potted starts. Day-neutral or everbearing varieties are great for containers because they fruit throughout the season (examples: Seascape, Albion, Ozark Beauty), giving a steady supply rather than one big June crop. Fill the bucket with a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost. Ensure excellent drainage via holes in the bottom and even some on the lower sides if possible (strawberry roots should not sit in water). Plant 3-4 strawberry plants in a 5-gallon bucket, spacing them evenly (think of a few inches from the bucket edge and apart from each other). You want to avoid overcrowding so each gets light and airflow. Make sure the crown of each strawberry (the growing point where leaves emerge) is at soil level, not buried (or it may rot) and not too exposed (roots shouldn’t be showing). Firm the soil gently around the roots. Water them in well. If using bare-root plants, fan out their roots in the soil and ensure the crown is right at surface level. You could also do one plant per bucket if you want it to produce a lot and send out runners that fill the bucket later – but initially, multiple plants will yield more fruits sooner. Strawberries in buckets can send out runners (baby plants on stolons); you might let one or two runners root in the same bucket to thicken your patch, but if it gets crowded, periodically trim runners or relocate them to new containers to maintain productivity of the mother plants. It’s often recommended to pinch off the first flowers of newly planted strawberries for the first few weeks to let them establish – with day-neutral types, maybe just the first flush, then let them fruit. If your bucket will remain outdoors over winter in a cold climate, consider that strawberry roots in a container can freeze (they’re less insulated than in-ground). You may need to protect the bucket (wrap in insulation, or bury it, or move to an unheated garage) in winter to help plants survive. In moderate climates, just mulching them or tucking bucket in a sheltered spot may suffice.

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun (6-8 hours) is ideal for sweet, abundant strawberries. More sun typically equals more and better berries, up to a point. In very hot climates, they appreciate afternoon shade during peak summer to avoid scorched leaves or fried fruit. So if you’re in zone 8+, maybe give them morning sun, afternoon shade come July. But generally, lots of sun makes for happy strawberries. Keep the soil consistently moist. Strawberries have fairly high water needs, especially when flowering and fruiting. In a bucket, check moisture daily. The soil should be kept like a wrung-out sponge – not sopping, but never bone dry. If they dry out, you’ll see them wilt and the fruit can be undersized or abort. Too much dryness can also cause bitter or hollow berries. On the flip side, sitting in water can cause root rot or disease like red stele. With good drainage holes, overwatering is usually only a concern if the pot can’t drain or if you water way too often without letting the top little bit dry. It’s wise to water in the morning so the plants go into the heat of day well-hydrated and any wet foliage can dry (preventing fungal issues). Using a drip tray is fine but avoid the bucket sitting constantly in water. Fertilize lightly but regularly. Strawberries are moderately heavy feeders to keep producing. A balanced liquid fertilizer (like 10-10-10 or even a tomato fertilizer) every 3-4 weeks during the growing season can keep them vigorous. Some gardeners prefer organic options like fish emulsion or a top-dress of compost mid-season. Because nutrients leach from containers, don’t forget this step or you may see yellowing leaves and diminished fruit. However, too much nitrogen can lead to lots of leaves and few berries, so maintain balance. Also, after the main summer, around late August, ease off fertilizer to let plants slow down and harden for fall/winter.

Harvesting Tips: Pluck strawberries when they are fully colored (rich red for red varieties, or whatever final color for the type) and slightly soft to the touch. Ideally, pick in the morning when they are cool, or early evening – mid-day sun-warmed berries are tempting to eat on the spot (go for it!), but if you’re storing any, they last better if picked cool. Use your fingers to pinch the stem a little above the berry or pull gently on the berry; ideally, keep the green cap on until you wash/eat them to prolong freshness. Ripe strawberries bruise easily, so handle like the precious gems they are. In peak season, you might be harvesting daily or every other day. Don’t leave overripe or rotten berries on the plant – remove them to avoid attracting pests or disease. If you find some half-eaten ones, suspect birds or slugs. Bird pecks typically come from above – consider draping bird netting or even placing some shiny tinsel or CDs near the plant to deter them. Slugs/snails leave telltale slime and usually chew low – but in a bucket, slugs are less common unless it’s touching other surfaces they climb. If slugs are an issue, copper tape around the bucket can deter them, or place a beer trap nearby. After the main flush, everbearing/day-neutral will keep sporadically producing. June-bearing (if you grew those) give one big crop then mostly runners; you’d trim runners or propagate them for next year. Remove any moldy berries promptly if grey mold (Botrytis) sets in on a fruit – increase airflow (maybe thin some leaves) and ensure you’re not wetting fruits when watering. One great thing: bucket strawberries can be moved under shelter if heavy rain threatens during ripening (to avoid waterlogged, bland berries).

Companion Plants: In the bucket, you could try a little companion planting around the edges with something like lettuce or spinach in the cooler part of the season, or maybe a few dwarf marigolds to add color and repel pests. But often, it’s best to let strawberries have their bucket to themselves, or only very small shallow-root companions, because strawberries will send runners and fill the space. A potentially beneficial companion is borage – said to enhance strawberry flavor and repel pests – but borage is a large plant, not suitable in the same small bucket. Maybe keep a separate borage plant nearby. Another friend is thyme – thyme planted at the base of strawberries (in a larger planter scenario) can repel worms and flies. In a bucket, you could stick a couple of thyme sprigs or small plants in the corners if there’s room and they cascade over, not bothering the strawberries. It might be tight though. Since Flowerdew’s advice was to go bigger on containers for bigger harvestshomesandgardens.com, some actually use larger containers or multiple buckets, but we can still apply the concept: one strong plant per bucket can yield well, or a few moderately. If you have multiple bucket strawberries, spacing buckets near each other can create a micro-climate and perhaps ramp up humidity a bit around them which they enjoy. Also, consider rotating the bucket periodically if one side of plants isn’t getting as much sun (for even growth).

Container Tips: Strawberries in buckets might need winter protection. One method: after growing season, cover the top of the soil with straw (the traditional winter mulch for strawberries) and maybe wrap the bucket in burlap. Move it to a spot that’s shielded from worst freezing winds. If in a very cold region, you might even drop the whole bucket into a larger container of insulating material (like wood chips or hay). The goal is to keep roots from freezing solid and crowns from getting frostbitten. If successful, your plants will sprout anew in spring and likely fruit even more in their second year (strawberry plants often peak in their second and third year). Do note, by year 3 or 4, they usually decline, so propagate runners or plan to replace with new stock then. Another tip: Keep an eye out for nutrient buildup or pH changes in containers with perennials. Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil (around pH 6). Using tap water over time can raise pH; if your plants show signs of iron chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins), you might need to acidify a bit (iron sulfate or an acidic fertilizer for azaleas can help). Also, flush the soil in early spring by watering heavily once to leach any salts. For pest control, aside from slugs and birds, watch for spider mites in hot dry weather (hose off leaves if seen), aphids (treat with insecticidal soap), and powdery mildew (if leaves get white powder, remove affected parts and ensure better airflow). Many modern varieties are pretty disease-resistant, especially in fresh potting mix. Lastly, as Bob Flowerdew suggested, one plant per old bucket can be perfecthomesandgardens.com – don’t overcrowd and you’ll get superb crops. If you find your bucket is producing “miserable crops,” as he said people do with small containers, upsizing to a bucket or ensuring regular watering/feeding usually fixes that. With bucket strawberries, you can savor the classic summer joy of berry picking even in the smallest of gardens. Encourage those plants with kind words (I swear it helps!) and enjoy every sweet bite.

15. Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Fragrant basil is a fantastic herb to grow in a 5-gallon bucket, providing an abundant supply of fresh leaves for pesto, salads, and seasoning. Basil thrives in containers and can actually grow into quite a bushy plant given enough root space and sunshine. It’s also a great companion to many veggies (like tomatoes and peppers), so having a bucket or two of basil near your other containers can benefit the whole mini-garden by repelling pests and attracting pollinators when it flowers. Plus, the aroma is heavenly on your patio!

Why It Thrives: Basil has relatively shallow roots and doesn’t require a huge footprint; however, a larger soil volume (like a bucket) means it won’t dry out as fast and can support a larger plant or multiple basil plants. Basil loves warm soil and consistent moisture – conditions easily provided in a bucket that heats up in the sun and can be watered regularly. In-ground, basil can be finicky about cold nights and soil that’s too dense; in a potting mix, it gets ideal drainage and warmth. Also, in a container you can position basil in prime sun and even move it indoors if a surprise late cold snap hits (basil is very frost-sensitive). Many gardeners report that container-grown basil actually grows faster because the root zone stays nice and cozy. By dedicating a whole 5-gallon bucket to basil, you can either grow one huge plant or a few plants together, resulting in a prolific mini “basil bush”.

Planting Instructions: Decide if you want one variety or multiple. Common sweet basil is popular, but there are Thai basils, purple basils, lemon basils, etc. A bucket could host one or two varieties (perhaps partitioned by space). Fill the bucket with quality potting mix enriched with some compost. Basil isn’t extremely nutrient-hungry, but appreciates fertile soil. If planting from seed: sow basil seeds on the surface (they need light to germinate) and cover with a very thin sprinkle of soil or vermiculite. Keep moist; they germinate in about 5-10 days. Thin seedlings so that each has room – ultimately, in a 12-inch surface of a bucket, you might keep maybe 3-4 basil plants evenly spaced (or fewer if you want them really large). If planting from nursery seedlings or cuttings, you can transplant 2-3 into a bucket. I’ve grown about 3 basil plants in a 12-inch pot and they filled it completely; a 5-gallon bucket is similar. You could also just plant one in the center and let it get enormous, especially some varieties that can reach 2-3 feet tall. Upon planting (or once seedlings are a few inches tall), pinch off the very top set of leaves to encourage branching. Basil loves to branch out when pinched, becoming bushier and producing more leaves. Continue to pinch every week or so the tips of each stem as it grows – this delays flowering and gives you more foliage. Make sure your bucket has good drainage holes; basil hates wet feet and can get root rot if waterlogged. Place the bucket in a sunny, warm location. Basil can also share a bucket with some other herbs like parsley or chives if you want an herb mix, but in terms of thriving, basil on its own or with a small friend is fine (just avoid mixing with something that has very different needs, like rosemary which prefers drier soil).

Sunlight & Watering: Basil loves full sun – aim for 6-8 hours of direct sun daily. In very hot climates, it can handle part sun (like a bit of afternoon shade), but generally more sun yields more flavorful oils in the leaves (and a sturdier plant). Because your bucket soil will heat up, the basil will grow quickly as long as it doesn’t dry out. Consistent watering is key. Basil has high water content (those lush leaves will wilt fast if thirsty). Keep the soil evenly moist but not swampy. Water when the top half-inch of soil is dry. In mid-summer heat, that could be daily watering, especially for a full bucket of basil leaves that are evaporating water. If leaves ever droop, water promptly and they usually perk back up. Using a mulch (like a thin layer of compost or straw) on top can help retain moisture and keep soil a bit cooler on scorching days, which basil appreciates; it likes warmth but not extreme heat stress. Fertilize basil occasionally. Because we often pick leaves, we want continuous growth. Feeding with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks is plenty if your soil had compost. Too much fertilizer (especially nitrogen) can sometimes dilute the flavor (very fast-grown basil might be less aromatic), so don’t overdo it – a moderate feeding schedule is fine. Organic options like fish emulsion or compost tea work great, supplying a mild boost. Also, because you are frequently harvesting (pruning), that in itself spurs new growth much like fertilizer would.

Harvesting Tips: The more you harvest (correctly), the more basil will produce. The key is to pinch or cut just above a pair of leaves (or node) rather than plucking single leaves from random spots. Whenever a stem has at least 6-8 leaves, you can cut it back, leaving 2-4 leaves on that stem. New branches will emerge from where you cut. This method yields a bushy plant and avoids tall, lanky growth. You can start harvesting when the plant is about 6 inches tall; never remove more than about 1/3 of the plant at a time. Regularly harvesting (even if you don’t need the leaves immediately, you can dry or freeze them, or give to friends) keeps the plant in a vegetative, productive state. Prevent flowering for as long as possible if you want leaves – once basil flowers, leaf flavor may diminish and the plant puts energy into seeds. Pinch off any flower buds that appear, unless you near the season’s end or you want to attract pollinators (basil flowers are great for bees) or save seeds. But normally, keep it from flowering by frequent harvests. If it does flower, just cut those off; if some get away from you and make seeds, maybe it’s time to start a new plant because that one might be nearing the end of its lifecycle. For use, pick leaves in the morning for best essential oil content. Fresh is best, but you can also hang bunches to dry in a shaded area or chop and freeze in ice cube trays with a bit of water or olive oil. A single bucket basil plant can yield a surprisingly large amount over a season (multiple pesto batches worth!). If you have far more than you need, consider letting one branch flower later in summer – the bees will thank you and you can collect some aromatic flowers for tea or garnish (yes, basil flowers are edible). Also, a flowering basil adds beauty and fragrance to your patio. But maintain at least one main plant as your leaf producer.

Companion Plants: Basil is famously a companion to tomatoes and peppers, said to improve their flavor and repel pests like thrips, mosquitoes, and perhaps whiteflies. While scientific evidence on flavor improvement is scant, many gardeners swear their tomatoes taste better next to basil (at least they taste better together in the kitchen!). In practical terms, placing your basil bucket near your tomato bucket is a win-win: the basil repels some pests and attracts pollinators (which tomatoes benefit from buzz pollination, and peppers from any pollination help), and in turn the taller tomato might provide a tad of midday shade to basil’s container keeping roots cooler. Just ensure the basil still gets plenty of sun and doesn’t get overshadowed. Basil also fares well near eggplants and oregano and pretty much any veggie that likes similar conditions (sun, moderate water). In the bucket itself, you could underplant basil around a central taller plant in a very large pot (some put basil at the base of potted tomatoes), but in a 5-gallon bucket, better to give basil its own home or share only with something like parsley (which has similar water needs but is shorter) or perhaps a few green onion sprigs – though honestly, I’d let basil occupy it alone for maximum yield. Basil and marigolds both repel mosquitoes, so having those buckets around seating areas is great (and they look/smell nice together). Avoid planting basil with herbs that prefer dry, sandy soil like rosemary, lavender, or sage – their needs conflict. Basil likes the richer moisture conditions akin to other leafy herbs (cilantro, chives, parsley). Interestingly, some suggest not to plant basil near rue or thyme, claiming growth may be stunted – not heavily documented, but mentionable. In separate buckets it’s moot, but don’t put rue in the same bucket as basil. Basil can actually act as a “living mulch” around a plant like a dwarf tomato in a huge pot – but again, in limited container space, better separate for ease of care.

Container Tips: Basil is sensitive to cold – don’t put it out too early in spring. Wait until nights are reliably above 50°F (10°C). If a random cold night occurs, bring the bucket indoors. Basil will also be one of the first to suffer when fall temps drop; you can prolong it by bringing indoors on chilly nights or eventually under a grow light as the season ends. Some people keep a basil plant going indoors in winter on a sunny windowsill or under lights – a bucket might be large for indoors, but you can always take cuttings from your big basil plant in late summer, root them in water (basil cuttings root easily), and pot those up to have an “indoor backup” over winter. That way, next spring you have a head start with transplants. Also, watch for pests: aphids love basil; wash them off with a spray if seen. Whiteflies might appear; sticky traps or neem can help. Fungal diseases (like downy mildew) can strike basil in humid conditions – yellowing leaves with grey fuzz underside. To avoid that, ensure good

16. Mint (Mentha spp.)

If you love a refreshing hint of mint in your tea or desserts, growing mint in a bucket is the way to go. Mint is an extremely vigorous herb – it will spread and take over a garden bed if left unchecked. By confining it to a 5-gallon bucket, you get all the lush growth and aroma without the invasive tendencies. In fact, experts *recommend growing mint in a pot to prevent it from overtaking other plantsherbexpert.co.uk】. Mint thrives in containers and is very forgiving, making it perfect for beginners.

Why It Grows Well in Buckets: Mint has a sprawling root system (rhizomes) that in the ground will shoot out in every direction. In a bucket, those roots are contained, which actually makes the plant direct its energy into producing more leaves and stems above. Mint doesn’t need deep soil – a bucket’s depth is plenty – but it enjoys the ample room to spread sideways. The bucket also allows you to control soil moisture; mint likes slightly damp soil and will wilt if it dries out completely. Another bonus: you can move the bucket to find the ideal spot, since mint tolerates full sun or partial shade. And if one area of your yard is too hot, simply relocate the bucket to a cooler corner. Containing mint separately also protects nearby plants from mint’s allelopathic effects (mint can sometimes stunt very sensitive neighbors via chemical signals) – in a bucket, it plays nice with the rest of your garden.

Planting Instructions: Start with a small mint plant or a rooted cutting (mint is very easy to propagate from cuttings). Choose your variety – common spearmint, peppermint, chocolate mint, orange mint… there are many! Any can grow in a container. Fill the bucket with a quality potting mix that retains moisture but drains well. Plant the mint at the same depth it was in its nursery pot. You can plant one mint per bucket; that one plant will soon expand to fill the whole container. If you’re planting multiple, stick to two small starters at most, and give them opposite sides of the bucket. Water it in thoroughly. Mint can handle a bit of crowding, but it’s best to let it establish then thin it periodically by pulling or cutting out some runners if it gets too dense. This ensures good airflow and healthier leaves. One handy tip: you can plant the mint while keeping it in a smaller plastic pot with holes, and then sink that pot into the soil of the bucket – this double containment further restrains the roots. However, a single bucket alone typically does the job. Just be cautious with drainage; ensure you have several holes at the bucket’s base so excess water escapes (mint likes moisture, not swampy conditions).

Sunlight & Watering: Mint is adaptable. It grows well in full sun (at least 6 hours) but also tolerates partial shade (4 hours or so). In full sun, just watch the water more closely; in partial shade, it may grow a bit slower but leaves can be very lush and tender. Ideally, give mint morning sun and afternoon light shade, especially in very hot climates, to prevent leaf scorch. Keep the soil consistently moist. Mint withers quickly if it gets too dry, but it usually bounces back after a good watering. Check your bucket daily in warm weather – if the top inch is dry, give it a drink. On average, mint in a bucket might need water every 1-2 days in summer (more in blazing heat). Having a saucer under the bucket can help catch runoff, but don’t let the plant sit in standing water for long periods. Feeding mint is rarely necessary; it’s such a hardy grower that too much fertilizer can make it leggy. A bit of compost mixed in the soil or a half-strength balanced fertilizer once or twice a season is plenty. In fact, richer soil will make it grow faster than you might know what to do with! Focus on water and light, and mint will happily take care of itself.

Harvesting Tips: You can begin harvesting mint leaves as soon as the plant has a few healthy stems of decent length (say 6-8 inches tall). Regular harvesting actually encourages mint to grow thicker and bushier. Pinch or cut sprigs just above a leaf node (the point where leaves pair on the stem). This will cause the plant to branch out at that point. You can harvest just a few leaves at a time for a recipe, or cut entire sprigs. If you need a large harvest (for a big batch of mojitos or mint jelly, for example), try not to remove more than one-third of the foliage at once; then let the plant recover for a week or two before heavy harvesting again. Mint can be cut repeatedly throughout the season. If you notice it starting to form flower buds, pinch those off unless you want the plant to bloom. The flavor is best before flowering. However, mint flowers are pretty and loved by pollinators, so you might let a few bloom later in the season when you’ve already gotten plenty of leaves. The flavor in leaves can get slightly stronger or slightly bitter once it flowers, so many gardeners keep removing buds to prolong the tender new growth phase. Use fresh-cut mint immediately for best flavor, or store stems in water like cut flowers for a couple of days. You can also dry or freeze mint easily if you end up with a surplus. In fall, mint will start to die back (it’s perennial in most climates). If you live where winters freeze, the top will brown and die – you can trim it down and place the bucket in a sheltered spot. The mint will likely return in spring from the roots. One great thing: because it’s in a bucket, you can even bring the bucket into a garage or unheated sunroom to overwinter, giving it a better chance to sprout early next year.

Companion Plants: As mentioned, mint should not share a container with other herbs or veggies, because it will out-compete them. Keep it in its own bucket. But you can place the mint bucket near other plants to impart pest-repelling benefits. The strong scent of mint is known to deter aphids, cabbage moths, and ants. For example, a mint bucket near your cabbage or kale containers might help confuse cabbage butterflies. A bucket near the patio or door can also discourage ants or mice from crossing that area (anecdotal, but many swear by mint for pest control). Just remember that mint’s aroma can potentially affect the taste of very close neighbors in raised beds if planted together – but in separate buckets, that’s not a worry. One fun companion use: place a mint bucket near your seating area; the aroma can help keep mosquitoes at bay somewhat and you’ll have a handy supply of leaves to crush and rub on your skin as a natural repellant. Also, the flowers of mint (if allowed) will attract beneficial insects, which is a plus for the whole garden. Essentially, think of your mint bucket as both an herb source and a pest-repellent planter that you can move around as needed. Just avoid physically planting mint in the same soil as your other herbs or veggies. In the bucket environment, mint truly shines on its own, safe from taking over and free to do its verdant, refreshing thing.

17. Green Onions (Scallions and Chives)

Want a continuous supply of scallions for your salads and soups? Green onions (scallions) grow beautifully in 5-gallon buckets. These are among the easiest edibles to cultivate in containers, and they have a quick turnaround time from planting to harvest. Whether you start from seeds, sets (bulblets), or even kitchen scraps (the white ends of store-bought green onions will re-sprout), a bucket can provide you with bunch after bunch of fresh onion greens. We’ll also lump chives in here, as they have a similar form and can be grown alongside scallions – chives are a perennial herb, essentially a type of small onion, and thrive in containers as well.

Why They Thrive: Green onions have shallow roots and slender profiles, so they don’t need a huge surface area. A 5-gallon bucket can accommodate a surprising number of scallions in a cluster or in “rows” across the diameter. The bucket allows for loose, rich soil which helps the white onion shanks (the lower part) grow long and uniform. In heavy clay ground soil, scallions might be stumpy, but in fluffy potting mix they elongate nicely. Buckets also make it easy to control moisture – scallions like regular water – and to position the onions in full sun which they prefer. Another plus: by raising them off the ground, you reduce issues with soil pests and make harvesting easier (no bending to ground level to snip them). If you keep cutting and re-growing, a bucket environment with steady nutrients means the onions can regenerate multiple times. Essentially, they are well-suited to intensive planting, and a bucket lets you create a mini “onion patch” in a small space, even on an apartment balcony.

Planting Instructions: If starting from seeds, fill the bucket with good potting mix and sow seeds thinly on the surface, then cover with about 1/4 inch of fine soil. You can sow in a grid or scatter pattern; don’t worry too much about perfect spacing because you can thin later. Another method is to sow in concentric circles or rows across the bucket. Green onion seeds germinate in about 1-2 weeks. Once they’re a few inches tall like grass, thin them out so that they’re roughly 1/2 inch to 1 inch apart. Honestly, scallions tolerate crowding quite well, so you can leave them in clumps and they’ll still grow (you’ll just harvest whole clumps). If using sets (tiny onion bulbs) or transplanting seedlings, plant them about 1 inch deep and 1-2 inches apart. You can fit maybe 20 or more in a 5-gallon bucket if spacing about an inch apart in a grid – they’ll be snug but will grow upright. The nice thing with sets is they’re fast and fairly foolproof; stick them pointy side up into the soil, cover lightly, and water. For chives, you can either seed them or transplant a clump into the bucket. Chives will form a dense clump over time; one or two chive plants is enough per bucket (or add them around the edges while using the center for scallions). Ensure your bucket has drainage holes. Onions don’t like to be waterlogged, though they appreciate even moisture. Mix a bit of balanced fertilizer or compost into the soil at planting to give them a good start (especially for repeated cuttings, they’ll need some feeding).

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun is ideal for green onions and chives – aim for at least 6 hours of direct sun. They can tolerate partial shade (especially in very hot regions) but might grow slower or not get as robust. In good sun, you’ll have sturdy, flavorful greens. Keep the soil consistently moist. Because these alliums are mostly water (think of how crisp a fresh scallion is), they need regular watering. Check the bucket daily; water when the top half-inch of soil is dry. In summer heat, that could mean watering every day or every other day. The good news: onions are somewhat drought-tolerant short-term (they won’t keel over immediately), but letting them dry out can cause tips to brown and growth to stall, so best to keep up with watering. Using mulch like straw or even a thin layer of dried grass can help retain moisture around the roots. Fertilizer: since scallions are often harvested quickly (in 6-8 weeks from seed, or even sooner from sets), they don’t need heavy feeding initially. If you plan to continuously harvest and regrow, give them a light dose of balanced soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion every 3-4 weeks to replenish nutrients. Chives, being perennial, appreciate a bit of organic fertilizer in spring to push new growth and perhaps once mid-season. Watch for pale coloring – if the green onion leaves start looking yellowish, that’s a sign they’re hungry or water-stressed. Generally, with decent soil and some compost, they do fine.

Harvesting Tips: You can begin harvesting green onions when they reach about pencil thickness or whenever they seem a usable size for your needs. For scallions, many people like them when the white stem is 3-4 inches long and the total length maybe 8-12 inches. You have two main harvesting methods:

Harvest whole scallions: Use a gentle tug or dig around the base and pull up the entire plant (white bulb and green tops). If you planted thickly, you might harvest every other one to allow remaining onions to size up a bit more. This is good if you need a bunch for a recipe. You can also harvest in clumps – since they were spaced close, pulling a clump of 3-4 that grew together is fine.
Cut-and-come-again: This works well for chives and can for scallions too if you only need the green parts. Use scissors to cut the green leaves about 1 inch above the soil line. The onions will regrow from the cut (chives especially will send up new shoots quickly; scallions will too, though after a couple cuttings the white base can get a bit fatter and more oniony – at that point they might be more like leeks). This method lets you keep the roots in place and get multiple harvests. It’s best done once the plants are established (not tiny seedlings).

If you sowed seeds thickly, an initial thinning harvest can give you some very young “micro-scallions” to use as garnish. Thereafter, harvest as needed. With good care, you can often get 2-3 cuts from one planting of scallions. Eventually, you might notice the new growth is thinner or the flavor stronger – that may indicate it’s time to start a fresh batch by reseeding. One strategy for continuous supply is to succession plant: sow a new batch of seeds or sets in the bucket (or another bucket) every few weeks during the growing season. That way, as one batch is fully harvested, the next is coming in. Chives, on the other hand, will just keep growing after cuts (they are basically perennial scallions that don’t form much of a bulb). Chive flowers (purple globes) are pretty and edible; you can let chives bloom. With scallions, if they start to form a flower stalk (a hard round stem), it means that plant is nearing the end – the stalk is usually tough. You can pull those and use what’s still usable of the greens, or let a few flower and collect seeds for next time. In a bucket, it’s easy to manage – just keep planting some new ones and you’ll have an endless loop of green onions.

Companion Plants: Green onions and chives are fantastic companion plants in general – they naturally deter many pests with their oniony smell. In a bucket, you can actually intercrop scallions around slower-growing veggies. For example, you might plant a couple of tomato or pepper seedlings in a very large container and sprinkle scallion seeds around them; the scallions will grow and be harvested by the time the larger plant needs the space. In a 5-gallon bucket, space is more limited, but you could certainly tuck a few green onion sets into the corners of a bucket that’s primarily for, say, a larger pepper plant or a dwarf tomato. They won’t harm each other and the onions might even repel aphids or spider mites from their companions. Another idea: interplant radishes and scallions in the bucket; radishes will pop up and be ready quickly, and pulling them creates room for the slower-growing scallions to thicken. Chives could also share a bucket with something like strawberries or lettuce as a border, since chives don’t take much room – and purportedly, chives can improve the flavor of carrots and deter pests from strawberries when grown nearby. Ensure, however, that watering and sunlight needs match for any co-planted species (luckily, onions and most veggies both like sun and moist soil). Also, be mindful not to overcrowd to the point of competition for nutrients. Generally, onions are team players that can fit in small gaps. If keeping them solitary in their own bucket, no problem – they’ll do great. And nothing says you can’t dedicate one bucket purely to a thick patch of chives; it can be a decorative and useful container, with its spiky fine leaves and pretty blooms, all while providing you with seasoning. One caution: avoid planting onion family with beans or peas in the same container – alliums and legumes can stunt each other’s growth if their roots intermingle closely. But in separate buckets side by side it’s fine.

Container Tips: One nice thing: you can grow scallions year-round if you have a mild climate or a sunny indoor spot. In summer, they grow fast outside. In winter, you can move a bucket of chives or a freshly planted batch of scallions into a sunny window or under a grow light and keep harvesting through the cold months. Chives, being perennial, will die back in hard frost but the roots will survive in a bucket if not frozen solid – you can overwinter the bucket in a garage or wrap it in insulation. Come spring, chives will shoot up anew. Scallions grown from bulblet sets in fall can often overwinter and resume growth in early spring (they might stay dormant in the coldest part of winter). If you ever have scallions that grow too big and start looking like regular bulb onions, you can either pull them to use as a small onion or leave a couple to see if they flower – you’ll get allium blooms that attract pollinators. Bucket soil for scallions can be reused for another crop, but since onions do draw quite a bit of nutrients, it’s good to amend it with compost or rotate in a different plant family after a heavy scallion rotation. However, because they are quick growers, disease build-up is minimal. You might actually rotate that soil to your lettuce or spinach, and use new mix for the next onions, etc. In summary, a bucket of green onions is low-maintenance, high-reward – providing a constant garnish and flavor boost for your cooking. It’s a great way to use “empty” space around slower plants, or just dedicate a single bucket to them and enjoy an easy crop. And next time you have leftover supermarket scallion roots, stick them in your bucket soil – they’ll regrow and get a second life, saving you money and trips to the store.

18. Garlic (Allium sativum)

Believe it or not, you can even grow your own garlic in a 5-gallon bucket. Garlic is typically grown in garden beds over a long season (planted in fall, harvested the next summer), but container garlic is very feasible and can yield full bulbs with proper care. If you’re short on garden space or want to avoid critters digging up your cloves, a bucket offers a controlled environment. Plus, garlic’s pest-repellent properties mean having a garlic bucket near other plants might help protect them too. Growing garlic in a bucket is an excellent way to utilize containers through the winter (when other plants are dormant) by planting in autumn and then enjoying a harvest of plump bulbs by early next summer.

Why It Thrives: Garlic has relatively straightforward needs: well-drained fertile soil, consistent moisture, and a cold period (for hardneck types) to trigger bulb formation. A bucket can provide the rich soil and drainage control. It also means you can move the garlic under shelter during torrential rains (preventing rot) or ensure it gets enough cold by leaving it outdoors in winter. By using a bucket, you eliminate weeds that might compete with garlic’s shallow roots, and you can easily prevent overwatering by monitoring moisture. Another advantage is spacing: in the ground, you might plant garlic 6 inches apart in rows. In a 5-gallon bucket, roughly 12 inches in diameter, you can plant about 4 to 6 cloves evenly spaced (like one in the center and a few around) – this is a bit closer than in ground, but manageable with good feeding. The bucket confines the garlic’s roots, ensuring that the plant’s energy goes into making a nice bulb rather than wandering. Also, certain fungal diseases or pests in soil (like allium root maggots) might be less likely in fresh potting mix, giving container-grown garlic an edge in health.

Planting Instructions: Timing: In most regions, plant garlic in the fall (October or so) for harvest the following late spring or summer. If you missed fall, you can plant in very early spring, but the bulbs may be smaller (some garlic varieties need that winter chill). Cloves: Obtain seed garlic or healthy bulbs of a variety suited to your area (hardneck varieties if you have cold winters, softneck if milder, though softneck can do well in buckets in many climates). Break the bulb into individual cloves a day or so before planting – keep the papery skins on each clove. Fill the bucket with a mix of potting soil and compost (garlic is a heavy feeder). Mix in a tablespoon or two of bone meal or all-purpose organic fertilizer; garlic appreciates phosphorus for root development. Plant each clove about 3-4 inches deep (pointy end up, basal plate down) and, if possible, 4-5 inches apart from the next. In a 5-gallon bucket, you could plant one clove per “quadrant” and one in the center (5 total), or do a pattern of 6 around if spacing allows. Some growers do 3-4 cloves and find they size up better with a tad more space. Water them in after planting. If you’re in a cold climate, you might add 2 inches of straw mulch on top to insulate (just remove it when shoots start coming up in spring). Through the fall, they’ll quietly grow roots (you may see a little green sprout before frost – that’s fine, it will pause in winter). Make sure the bucket has drainage holes so rain and snowmelt drain out. Keep the bucket outdoors if you need the garlic to experience cold vernalization; if you have extremely harsh winters (consistently below 0°F), you might move the bucket into an unheated garage to avoid the soil freezing solid and cracking the bucket or killing the cloves – but garlic is quite hardy, so usually leaving it outside is okay.

Sunlight & Watering: Garlic should be placed in full sun when active growth begins (late winter/early spring). A south-facing spot is great. The green shoots will emerge as the weather warms. They look like thick chives. From that point, ensure they get 6-8 hours of sun to fuel bulb formation. Watering is crucial especially in spring when bulbs are swelling. Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Check the bucket – top inch can dry between waterings, but beneath should stay slightly damp. In a rainy spring, you might not need to water much (just make sure the bucket isn’t waterlogged). In a dry spring, water perhaps once or twice a week deeply. As the garlic nears harvest (early summer, leaves will start yellowing from the bottom), you actually want to stop watering for the last couple of weeks to allow the bulbs to firm up and the skins to dry slightly. Overwatering late can lead to mold or less papery skins. Feeding: Since garlic is in the bucket a long time, give it some food. In early spring, once shoots are a few inches tall, feed with a balanced fertilizer or fish emulsion. You can repeat feeding about a month later. If you notice very pale leaves, a bit of blood meal (for nitrogen) can help earlier in spring. Once you see the formation of scapes (flower stalks) on hardneck garlic, you don’t need to fertilize after that – by then it’s focusing on bulbs.

Harvesting Tips: Hardneck garlic will send up curly flower stalks called “scapes” around late spring. Snip those off when they curl (and use them in cooking – they are delicious!). Removing scapes allows the plant to direct energy to the bulb rather than a flower. Softneck garlic usually doesn’t do scapes. Watch the leaves: when you see the lower 3-4 leaves turning brown and drying, and about 5-6 upper leaves are still green, that’s the typical harvest window. In a bucket, you might see this in early to mid-summer depending on planting time. To check, you can carefully feel around a bulb (or sacrificially pull one plant) to see if the bulb is plump and the skins are formed. To harvest, tip the bucket over gently and coax the soil and garlic plants out. Carefully brush off soil to reveal the bulbs. The goal is to keep the papery wrappers intact. If the soil is loose, you might even pull each plant out by its stem, but be cautious not to yank off the stems from the bulbs. It’s often easiest to dump the bucket’s contents on a tarp and then gather the bulbs. You should see nicely formed heads of garlic! They may be a bit smaller than giant garden-grown ones, depending on variety and spacing, but they will be full of flavor. Curing: After harvest, cure the garlic by placing the plants (with stems and leaves still attached) in a warm, dry, shady spot with good airflow for about 2 weeks. This lets them dry and the flavor mellow, and the wrappers papery, which helps them store. You can tie them in a bundle and hang, or lay out on a screen or rack. Once cured, cut the stems off about an inch above the bulb (or braid the softneck leaves if you wish), trim the roots, and brush off any remaining dirt. Now they’re ready to store in a cool, dry place for use. Save a couple of your biggest cloves to replant in the bucket next fall, completing the cycle!

Companion Plants: Garlic is famous for its pest-repelling qualities. The sulfur compounds in garlic deter aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, and even rabbits and deer to some extent. While you can’t really co-plant much else in the same bucket during the main garlic growth (since it occupies the bucket October through June/July), you can strategically place your garlic bucket near other plants as a natural repellent. For instance, park the garlic next to your rose containers to ward off aphids, or near lettuce to confuse pests. After harvesting garlic in midsummer, you then have an empty bucket ready to be replanted with a quick crop like bush beans, fall greens, or even a late tomato/pepper transplant. This is a great example of container crop rotation. You got garlic out, now use that space for something else for the rest of the season. Conversely, if you want to maximize use, you could attempt some interplanting: for example, in very early spring, you might sow some fast lettuce or radish seeds in the garlic bucket. They will mature before the garlic bulbs need the space. Garlic’s presence might slightly stunt them, but usually it’s fine and they’ll be harvested by late spring when the garlic is bulbing. It’s more of a bonus if you try that. By and large, while growing, garlic likes to be left alone. But nearby, it’s a good neighbor – folks often plant garlic around the perimeter of gardens or in corners of raised beds as a natural insect deterrent. In container groupings, keep your garlic bucket in the mix to help protect the gang. Just avoid planting garlic (or any allium) directly with beans or peas (they aren’t friends in close quarters). In separate containers it’s okay, but don’t share soil – alliums and legumes can inhibit each other’s growth if roots intermingle.

Container Tips: Use a food-grade bucket if possible for edibles like garlic, or at least one that hasn’t held toxic materials. Garlic will sit in that soil for 8-9 months, so you want a safe container. Ensure drainage is excellent – drill extra holes if you’re unsure. During winter, if you live somewhere with freeze-thaw cycles and lots of rain, one trick is to elevate the bucket on pot feet or bricks so it drains and doesn’t crack. If you expect deep freezes, you can insulate the bucket with burlap or move it against the house wall for a slight warmth advantage. However, garlic generally needs that cold spell (vernalization) for best results, so don’t keep it too cozy – outside exposure is needed for hardnecks (softnecks not as much). If using softneck garlic in a bucket, you can sometimes plant more densely (they tend to have slightly smaller bulbs so they tolerate a bit closer spacing). Also note, softnecks can be more finicky about overwatering (prone to rot) so watch moisture in rainy season. Growing garlic in a bucket is somewhat of an experiment each time (some people get huge bulbs, others medium), but it’s fun and satisfying to pull up a home-grown garlic crop from a container. Even if the bulbs are a bit small, the flavor is usually richer than store-bought. And you can absolutely use the garlic greens (like giant scallions) in spring as they grow – snip one or two leaves from each plant (not too many or it can reduce bulb size) to use like chives or green onions. They have a nice mild garlic taste. By the end, you’ll have garlic to cure and store, and you can proudly say you grew it in a bucket. Not many people realize that’s possible! So give it a try, and you might never need to buy garlic again once you establish a replanting rhythm.

Now that we’ve covered 18 fantastic foods you can cultivate in cheap 5-gallon buckets – from juicy tomatoes to crisp carrots, spicy peppers to sweet strawberries, and even herbs and garlic – you can see that container gardening opens up a world of possibilities. With a little soil, some sunshine, and regular care, your bucket garden can deliver a cornucopia of fresh produce right at your doorstep. To wrap up, let’s address some common questions new bucket-gardeners often ask:

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can I grow strawberries in a 5-gallon bucket?

Yes – strawberries grow very well in buckets. Plant 2–3 strawberry plants in a 5-gallon bucket with drainage holes. They will root into the container soil and produce berries through the season. Buckets keep the plants contained and away from ground pests. Just ensure they get full sun and consistent water. Many gardeners use buckets or hanging baskets for strawberries to great success.

How many tomato plants can grow in a 5-gallon bucket?

Just one tomato plant per 5-gallon bucket is recommended. Tomatoes are heavy feeders with extensive roots, and one plant will fill the bucket and use all the nutrients. If you try to put two tomato plants in one bucket, they will compete and likely produce less. Stick to one, give it a cage or stake for support, and it will reward you with lots of fruit.

Do 5-gallon buckets need drainage holes for plants?

Absolutely. You must drill several drainage holes in the bottom (or lower sides) of a 5-gallon bucket before using it as a planter. Good drainage is critical so that excess water can escape. Without drainage, plant roots can rot in waterlogged soil. Aim for 4–6 holes about 1/4 inch wide in the base of the bucket. This simple step ensures your bucket garden soil doesn’t stay too soggy.

What is the best soil mix for bucket gardening?

Use a high-quality potting mix (container mix) for bucket gardening. Don’t use heavy garden soil by itself. A good mix is lightweight, holds moisture but also drains well. You can mix in some compost for fertility. For example, a blend of potting soil, compost, and perlite makes an excellent bucket soil. This provides nutrients and aeration so plant roots can grow strong. Many brands label their product “potting mix” or “container mix” – those are ideal for bucket gardens.

How often should I water vegetables in 5-gallon buckets?

Check daily and water when the top inch of soil is dry. Vegetables in buckets often need watering more frequently than those in the ground, since containers can dry out faster. In hot summer weather, you may end up watering once a day (especially for big, thirsty plants like tomatoes or cucumbers). In cooler or rainy periods, you’ll water less. The key is consistent moisture – don’t let the soil completely dry out, as container plants can wilt quickly.

Can you grow root vegetables like carrots in containers?

Yes, many root veggies do great in containers. As we covered, carrots, radishes, beets, and even potatoes can be grown in buckets or pots. The container needs to be deep enough for the root – for carrots, a 5-gallon bucket provides plenty of depth for most varieties. Use loose potting soil and keep it free of rocks/clumps so roots can grow straight. Harvest on time for best results (don’t let them overmature). Container-grown root veggies are often beautifully formed because you control the soil conditions.

How many drainage holes should a 5-gallon bucket have?

Several – about 5 to 10 holes. There’s no exact number, but a good guideline is to drill roughly half a dozen holes in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket. Each hole can be around 1/4 inch in diameter. You can also add a couple to the lower sides of the bucket for extra drainage. The idea is to allow water to exit freely. More small holes are better than one or two big holes, to prevent soil from gushing out while still letting water drain.

Which vegetables grow best in 5-gallon buckets?

Many common veggies thrive in buckets, especially compact or shallow-rooted types. Some top performers include tomatoes (determinate/bush types), peppers, eggplants, lettuce and salad greens, spinach, radishes, bush beans, green onions, herbs (basil, parsley, mint, etc.), carrots (short varieties), potatoes, and cucumbers (with a small trellis). Even crops like zucchini or squash can be grown in buckets if you choose dwarf varieties. Essentially, any vegetable that doesn’t require sprawling huge roots can adapt to

Which vegetables grow best in 5-gallon buckets?

Many common veggies thrive in buckets, especially compact or shallow-rooted types. Top performers include tomatoes (bush/determinate varieties), peppers, eggplants, lettuce and other salad greens, spinach, radishes, bush beans, peas, green onions, carrots (choose shorter varieties), beets, potatoes, and most herbs (basil, parsley, mint, etc.). Even cucumbers and zucchini can be grown in buckets – just provide a small trellis or choose dwarf varieties. Essentially, any vegetable that isn’t extremely large or deep-rooted can adapt well to a 5-gallon container if cared for properly.

How do I fertilize plants in a bucket garden?

Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer periodically to feed container veggies. Nutrients in potting soil get used up or washed out over time, so feeding is important. You can mix a slow-release granular fertilizer into the soil at planting, and/or apply a diluted liquid fertilizer (like a general 10-10-10 or fish emulsion) every 2-4 weeks during the growing season. Leafy greens appreciate a bit more nitrogen, while fruiting plants (tomatoes, peppers) benefit from balanced or slightly higher phosphorus and potassium once they bud. Always follow the product instructions so you don’t over-fertilize. Organic options like compost tea or worm castings are great for a gentle, steady feed. Well-fed bucket plants will reward you with bigger yields.

How can I keep pests out of my bucket garden?

Container gardens can still get pests, but there are easy ways to protect your plants. First, practice good plant care – healthy plants resist pests better. Inspect your buckets regularly: check under leaves for eggs or insects. If you spot aphids or spider mites, wash them off with a gentle spray of water or use insecticidal soap. To deter pests naturally, you can companion plant herbs or flowers that repel bugs (for example, marigolds or basil) near your vegetable buckets. Covering seedlings with a lightweight mesh or row cover can prevent insects like cabbage moths or squash vine borers from reaching the plants (just remove covers when flowering begins so pollinators can access). Slugs are less of an issue off the ground, but if they climb up, try a strip of copper tape around the bucket or set out a small beer trap. Lastly, buckets are portable – if ants invade one, or you notice animals nibbling, you can relocate the container to a safer spot. By being attentive and proactive, you’ll keep most critters at bay and your bucket garden will stay productive.

Conclusion: Your Bucket Garden Awaits

Imagine stepping outside your door and plucking sun-ripened tomatoes, crisp peppers, or handfuls of fresh herbs from a humble bucket – it’s truly empowering and joyful. As we’ve seen, a lack of land or fancy planters is no barrier to growing your own food. With a few cheap 5-gallon buckets and the knowledge you’ve gathered here, you can create a bountiful mini-garden on a patio, balcony, or any sunny corner. It’s amazing how much variety and volume you can harvest from these small containers: salads, side dishes, and seasonings all bursting from what used to be plain pails.

Getting started is simple and inexpensive. Drill some holes, fill with soil, and transplant a seedling or sow some seeds. Tuck a cage in for your tomatoes or a trellis for your cucumbers, and watch your plants flourish. You’ll find that tending a bucket garden – watering, pruning, and harvesting – is relaxing and rewarding. It’s a chance to connect with nature each day, even in the middle of a city. And the payoff comes when you taste that first homegrown cucumber or sprinkle your own green onions onto a dinner dish. The flavors are fresher, the nutrients richer, and the sense of accomplishment is beyond compare.

So let this be your invitation: grab a bucket and grow something! Whether you start with one potted herb or set up a whole array of vegetable buckets, you’ll be joining a growing movement of creative, resourceful gardeners who maximize small spaces for big returns. Gardening in 5-gallon buckets is budget-friendly, eco-friendly (reuse those containers!), and endlessly enjoyable. Plus, it’s a conversation starter – you’ll inspire others when they see tomatoes and basil thriving in your repurposed tubs.

In a world where much is uncertain, growing your own food – even just a little – is empowering and uplifting. There’s nothing quite like the simple pleasure of harvesting dinner from a container you planted yourself. So roll up your sleeves and get planting. Your bucket garden awaits, ready to bring you fresh tastes, sweet scents, and the confidence that comes with newfound self-sufficiency. Happy bucket gardening, and may your harvests be abundant! milorganite.comextension.oregonstate.eduhomesandgardens.comhomesandgardens.comherbexpert.co.uk3】

18 Foods That Thrive in Cheap 5-Gallon Buckets

Growing your own food doesn’t require a big yard or fancy planters – sometimes, all you need is a cheap 5-gallon bucket and a bit of creativity. Imagine stepping onto your balcony or back porch and plucking sun-ripened tomatoes or crisp lettuce from a humble bucket garden. It’s small-space gardening at its finest: budget-friendly, immensely rewarding, and surprisingly productive. In this guide, we’ll walk through 18 different vegetables, herbs, and fruits that thrive in 5-gallon buckets, proving that anyone can cultivate a bountiful home garden with minimal space and money. Let’s dive into the bucket gardening revolution with practical tips, inspiration, and expert insights to get you growing. (Psst – stick around for the FAQ at the end, where we answer common questions like “Can I grow strawberries in buckets?” and more!)

How to Grow More with 5-Gallon Buckets – If you’re new to bucket gardening, check out our in-depth guide on maximizing yields in small spaces for even more tips and tricks.

1. Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum)

Growing tomatoes in 5-gallon buckets is a classic container gardening move – and for good reason. Why do tomatoes grow so well in buckets? Tomatoes have deep roots that appreciate the roughly 1-foot depth of a bucket, and the confined space keeps their growth in check while still providing enough soil for nourishment. Gardening expert Melinda Myers even notes that a 5-gallon bucket “is perfect for a tomato”milorganite.com in terms of size. Buckets also warm up quickly in the sun, which tomatoes love, and can be moved to catch optimal light.

Planting Instructions: Start with a sturdy food-safe 5-gallon bucket (free from previous chemicals – many restaurants give away pickle buckets!). Drill 5–10 drainage holes in the bottom to ensure excess water escapes. Fill the bucket with a high-quality potting mix blended with compost (avoid heavy garden soil). Plant one tomato seedling per bucket, burying the stem up to the top few leaves to encourage extra root development. Step-by-step:

Prepare the Bucket: Drill drainage holes and optionally line the bottom with a thin layer of gravel or broken pottery for drainage.
Fill with Potting Mix: Use a rich, well-draining mix. (Tip: A mix designed for containers or an organic vegetable mix works best – this is a great time to invest in a premium potting soil for healthy growth.)
Plant the Tomato: Dig a deep hole and plant your tomato seedling so that about 2/3 of the stem is buried (tomatoes can grow roots all along their buried stem!). Firm the soil and water well.
Add Support: Insert a tomato cage or stake at planting time. Buckets might be small, but your tomato will grow tall – a support cage keeps it upright and productive.

Sunlight & Watering: Place your tomato bucket in full sun (6-8+ hours of sunlight). Tomatoes are sun-lovers and will get leggy with too much shade. Water consistently – aim to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. In hot weather, buckets can dry out quickly, so check daily. A good rule is to water deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Because nutrients wash out of containers faster, feed your tomato every 2-3 weeks with a balanced tomato fertilizer or liquid plant food (diluted according to label). This keeps leaves green and fruit production high. (For an organic boost, see our Step-by-Step Guide to Making Liquid Fertilizer at Home to brew your own plant food.)

Harvesting Tips: In a bucket, tomatoes often produce earlier since the root zone stays warm. Harvest tomatoes when they’re fully colored (red, yellow, etc., depending on variety) and slightly soft to the touch. Pick regularly to encourage more fruit. If you see yellowing leaves or issues like blossom end rot, don’t fret – bucket tomatoes are easy to troubleshoot. (In fact, many bucket gardeners swear by a little Epsom salt in the water to add magnesium and prevent yellow leavescanadianedshop.comcanadianedshop.com – see 8 Amazing Uses of Epsom Salt for Tomatoes for more on that tip.)

Companion Plants: While a single tomato plant will occupy the whole bucket, you can companion plant by placing buckets near each other. For example, plant basil in its own bucket and sit it next to your tomato – basil is famously a great friend to tomatoes, reputed to enhance flavor and repel pests like mosquitoes. Marigolds in another bucket or pot can also help deter nematodes and pests from the area. Just avoid putting incompatible plants in the same container. (Remember the old saying: “Tomatoes hate cucumbers” – they don’t share well due to similar nutrient needs and potential disease spreadmilorganite.com. It’s best to give each its own bucket rather than mixing these two in one.) For more smart pairing ideas, check out Tomatoes Hate Cucumbers: Companion Planting Secrets.

Extra Container Tip: Use a mulch! Adding a layer of straw, shredded bark, or even dried leaves on top of the soil in the bucket can help retain moisture on hot days and keep the roots cooler. This means less frequent watering and happier tomato plants. Also, if you live in a very hot climate, consider shading the bucket itself or using a white bucket to avoid overheating the roots (dark-colored buckets can get surprisingly hot in direct sun).

2. Peppers (Capsicum annuum)

Whether you love sweet bell peppers or spicy chilies, peppers thrive in 5-gallon buckets. Peppers generally have a compact root system, making them ideal for container life. In fact, the Oregon State University Extension notes that a 5-gallon bucket (or similar size container) works well for a single pepper plantextension.oregonstate.edu. Buckets offer enough depth (typically ~12 inches or more) for pepper roots and allow you to position these heat-loving plants in the warmest, sunniest spot available. Plus, peppers in buckets can be moved indoors or to shelter if an unexpected cold snap hits early or late in the season.

Why They Grow Well: Peppers don’t mind a slightly “snug” root environment. In a 5-gallon bucket, they often set fruit faster because the soil warms up around the roots, and you can maintain ideal moisture easier than in-ground where rain can flood them. The controlled soil also means you can give them the perfect potting mix and avoid soil-borne diseases. Horticulture experts highlight that peppers are among the top veggies for container growingextension.oregonstate.edu – they truly don’t require an expansive garden bed to produce abundantly.

Planting Instructions: Use one bucket per pepper plant for best results (crowding more than one can stunt them). Ensure your bucket has good drainage holes. Fill it with a quality potting mix amended with compost or slow-release fertilizer formulated for vegetables. Transplant a pepper seedling (or sow a couple of seeds and thin to one) in the center of the bucket. Plant it at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot – peppers don’t need to be buried deep like tomatoes. Water it in well. If you’re planting a tall variety, insert a stake now for future support (many peppers stay bushy and short, but some hot peppers or leggy varieties appreciate a stake or small cage).

Sunlight & Watering: Give peppers full sun – at least 6 hours, but 8+ hours yields best growth and lots of peppers. They relish warmth; if you have a reflective wall or a corner that traps heat, that’s a great spot for a pepper bucket. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. A good soak 1-2 times per week is usually fine early on, but in summer you may need to water every other day as the plant gets bigger and thirstier. Watch for the leaves to slightly wilt as a sign it’s time to water, but try not to let it wilt frequently (stress can reduce yields). Using a self-watering insert or a tray under the bucket can help maintain moisture if you’re away. Also, peppers benefit from a feeding of balanced fertilizer or compost tea every month or so to keep producing new blooms and fruits.

Harvesting Tips: Harvest peppers when they reach the desired size and color. Many pepper varieties start green and then mature to red, yellow, orange, or purple. You can pick them green (unripe) or wait for the sweeter, often more nutrient-rich mature color. Use scissors or pruners to cut peppers off the plant rather than yanking (to avoid breaking branches). By picking regularly, you encourage the plant to set more blossoms. In buckets, peppers can keep fruiting well into fall; if it gets chilly, simply move your bucket indoors overnight or to a warmer microclimate to extend the season.

Companion Plants: Good companions for peppers (in nearby buckets or planters) include basil (again – it’s a wonderful multi-purpose companion), onions or green onions, and marigolds. Basil can help repel thrips, and marigolds deter root pests. Avoid planting peppers near fennel or kohlrabi, which can stunt them. Each pepper should have its own bucket, but you can cluster multiple buckets together to create a beneficial microenvironment (grouping plants can raise humidity slightly which peppers enjoy). If you’re growing both hot and sweet peppers, keep a bit of distance or label them clearly – they won’t cross-pollinate enough to affect this year’s fruit, but the next generation seeds could be surprises!

Container Gardening Tips: Peppers appreciate warmth – if your spring nights are still cool, wait to put your pepper buckets outside until temperatures are reliably above 55°F (13°C) at night. If needed, you can start the buckets indoors by a sunny window or under a grow light, then move them out when it warms up. One bonus of bucket-grown peppers: fewer pests like slugs (which can’t climb the smooth bucket easily) and better protection from soil diseases like phytophthora. Still, keep an eye out for aphids or spider mites on pepper leaves. A quick spray of soapy water or a gentle wipe of leaves can keep those in check. For more ideas on protecting your bucket veggies naturally, see our article on Natural Insect Defense in the Garden – it’s full of tips to keep pests away without harsh chemicals.

3. Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus)

Believe it or not, cucumbers can be grown in 5-gallon buckets with excellent results. These vining plants are typically thought to sprawl across the ground, but with a little vertical support, a single cucumber plant will happily live in a bucket and produce dozens of crunchy cukes. The key is choosing a compact or bush variety, or training vines upward so they don’t overwhelm their container. The payoff is fresh cucumbers even on a patio or apartment balcony!

Why They Thrive in Buckets: Cucumbers have fairly shallow roots (most roots are in the top 12 inches of soil), so a bucket’s depth is sufficient. They do need room to spread vines, but that can be vertical space instead of ground space. By growing in a bucket, you can also provide loose, rich soil that cucumbers adore, and keep them away from ground pests. Additionally, containers can be placed in ideal sunny spots and even moved to shade in extreme heat (cucumbers sometimes get bitter if heat-stressed). Container-grown cukes often have fewer disease issues like powdery mildew because of better air circulation when trellised up. As expert gardener Melinda Myers advises, “Train vine crops up trellises and supports” to save space and reduce diseasesmilorganite.com – this definitely applies to cucumbers in buckets.

Planting Instructions: Select a variety labeled “bush” or “compact” cucumber for easiest results (these will have shorter vines). If you have a standard vining type, no worries – just be prepared to trellis. Plant 2-3 cucumber seeds in the bucket (spaced a few inches apart) or transplant one healthy seedling. If multiple seeds sprout, thin to the strongest one or two plants; two cucumber vines can share one bucket if you provide enough water and nutrition, but one will usually produce better. Place a trellis or stake in the bucket at planting time. This could be as simple as sticking in some bamboo stakes in a teepee shape or tying twine to a fence or railing. Another idea is to position the bucket against a sunny wall and put a mesh or wire trellis behind it for the cucumbers to climb. Fill the bucket with a rich potting mix (cucumbers are heavy feeders – mix in slow-release organic fertilizer or compost). Ensure good drainage as always.

Sunlight & Watering: Cucumbers need full sun (6-8 hours). However, in very hot climates, they appreciate a little afternoon shade or at least attentive watering to prevent wilting. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist – cucumbers are about 95% water, and any drought stress can lead to bitter or misshapen fruits. During peak summer, you might water daily; large cucumber plants in buckets can drink a lot. A layer of mulch on top of the soil (such as straw or dried grass clippings) can significantly reduce evaporation and keep the roots cool. Feed your cucumber every 2-3 weeks with a balanced vegetable fertilizer. Once the plant starts flowering, you can switch to a fertilizer slightly higher in potassium (the “K” in N-P-K) to encourage lots of fruit. If you notice only flowers and no cucumbers, you might lack pollinators on a balcony – you can hand-pollinate by dabbing the center of male flowers and then female flowers with a small paintbrush. Usually, though, bees will find your bucket cucumbers quickly!

Harvesting Tips: Harvest cucumbers when they reach the desired size. For pickling varieties, that might be when they’re 3-5 inches, for slicing cukes, 6-8 inches or so. Don’t let cukes over-ripen on the vine (they’ll turn yellowish and seedy) because the plant will slow down production. In a bucket, cucumbers often produce continuously if you keep picking. Check vines daily – those sneaky cukes seem to appear overnight! Use pruners or pinch the stem an inch above the cucumber to harvest (avoid tugging the vine too much). If powdery mildew or other foliar diseases show up, trim off the affected leaves to keep it from spreading – the plant can still survive and set fruit with a bit of care.

Companion Plants: Great companions for cucumbers include dill and nasturtiums (which repel cucumber beetles) – these could be grown in separate small pots placed near your cucumber bucket. Radishes are another companion often recommended to deter pests; some gardeners even start radish seeds in the same bucket a couple weeks before the cucumbers, then harvest the radishes once the cucumber vine needs the space. Since cucumbers like similar conditions as squash and melons, avoid grouping them with potatoes or aromatic herbs like sage (which prefer drier conditions). Keep the cucumber bucket close to a flowering plant or two (even a pot of marigolds or alyssum) to attract pollinators for better yields.

Container Tips: Provide a sturdy support early on. As the cucumber grows, gently tie the vine to the trellis or stake using soft garden ties or strips of cloth, guiding it upward. This not only saves horizontal space but also keeps fruits cleaner and straighter. An added benefit: vertical vines get better airflow, reducing disease. If you notice your cucumber leaves turning pale or yellow, they might be hungry for magnesium – a common trick is to dissolve a tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and use it to water the plant (magnesium boosts the vibrant green and photosynthesis). Also, be vigilant about cucumber beetles even in container gardens; these yellow and black striped pests can find plants anywhere. Using a lightweight row cover fabric over the bucket for the first few weeks can prevent them from laying eggs; remove it once flowers appear to allow pollination.

4. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

For quick and easy harvests, it’s hard to beat lettuce in a bucket. Lettuce has a shallow root system and actually prefers the cozy quarters of a container where soil stays consistently damp and fertile. You can grow head lettuces or loose-leaf varieties right on your porch in a 5-gallon bucket and snip fresh salads as needed. Plus, bucket lettuce is easy to shield from harsh sun or hungry rabbits – just pick it up and move it, or cover it if needed.

Why It Grows Well: Lettuce is naturally compact and doesn’t need deep soil (6-8 inches of depth is often enough, though a bucket gives ~12 inches). In a bucket, you can control the soil quality – a loose, loamy mix will yield tender leaves. Lettuce also thrives in the cooler seasons of spring and fall; having it in a portable container means you can start it earlier (by bringing it into a garage on frosty nights) or extend the season by moving it to shade or indoors during heat waves. The bucket acts almost like a mini raised bed, which is great for lettuce since it hates waterlogged soil but loves moisture – good drainage plus frequent watering is easy to manage in a container.

Planting Instructions: For leaf lettuce, you can sprinkle a pinch of seeds across the surface of your bucket filled with moistened potting mix. Press them lightly into the soil (they need light to germinate) and keep moist. Thin the seedlings to avoid overcrowding – or better yet, harvest the thinnings as baby greens for sandwiches. For head lettuce (like romaine or butterhead), plant 2-3 seedlings spaced evenly in the bucket, or in a triangle pattern, and you’ll get a few mature heads. Another method: cut-and-come-again – plant a mix of loose-leaf lettuce seeds thickly and once they grow a few inches tall, start trimming leaves with scissors for your salad bowl. They will regrow several times. Make sure your bucket has drainage holes, and consider a lighter-colored bucket for lettuce if you’re growing in hot weather (to keep roots cooler). Lettuce doesn’t require a lot of fertilizer upfront; mixing some compost into the soil at planting time is usually enough.

Sunlight & Watering: Lettuce prefers full sun in cool weather, but in late spring or summer, it benefits from part shade (especially in the afternoon). A bucket makes it easy to move your lettuce into a spot that gets maybe 4-6 hours of morning sun and then shade later – this can prevent it from bolting (going to seed) too quickly in warm temperatures. Keep the soil consistently moist. Lettuce has high water content and will get bitter if allowed to dry out. Check daily; the leaves will usually start to droop if they’re thirsty. Because buckets drain well, you might need to water every day in warm conditions. However, avoid waterlogging – ensure excess water can flow out. Using a water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength every couple of weeks can keep lettuce growing lush (too much fertilizer might cause more growth but less flavor, so don’t overdo it).

Harvesting Tips: Harvest leaf lettuce by snipping outer leaves when they reach 4-6 inches long. Always leave the center growth so the plant keeps producing. You can continually harvest this way for weeks, moving from plant to plant. For full heads, wait until they form a nice head and cut the entire plant at the base. Another approach is the “cut and come again” – cut all the leaves about 2 inches above soil level; many lettuce varieties will regrow for a second or third cut. Because lettuce in a bucket is so accessible, you can harvest in the cool early morning for crispest leaves (hot midday harvesting can make leaves limp). Rinse and chill your lettuce and enjoy the incredible sweet, homegrown flavor. If a lettuce plant starts to send up a tall stalk (bolting), harvest it immediately – the leaves will soon turn bitter once it flowers. At that point, it’s best to pull the plant out and replant fresh seed for a new crop.

Companion Plants: Lettuce mixes well with other shallow-rooted, quick crops. You could plant radishes around the edges of the bucket and lettuce in the center – radishes will mature and be pulled out just as the lettuce needs a bit more space. Alternatively, interplant some green onions (scallions) among lettuce; they grow upright and don’t crowd the lettuce, and you get two crops in one bucket. Herbs like dill or cilantro that enjoy cooler weather can also share space with lettuce in a big container since they have deeper roots (just be mindful that herbs might grow taller and cast shade). Marigolds or nasturtiums can be nearby companions to deter pests. Generally, lettuce is so short-lived and undemanding that it doesn’t compete heavily with others – just avoid planting it directly with very large or root-heavy plants. Giving lettuce its own bucket or grouping with only small companions ensures it doesn’t get shaded out or root-bound.

Container Tips: One advantage of bucket gardening lettuce: you can move it to chase ideal conditions. If a heat wave is coming, move your lettuce bucket to a cooler, shadier spot (even indoors under a fan during peak heat) to prevent bolting. Conversely, if an unexpected cold snap or late frost threatens, just bring the bucket inside for the night. Also, consider succession planting – sow a few new lettuce seeds or seedlings in a fresh bucket every 2-3 weeks while the weather is favorable. This way, as one bucket’s lettuce crop is ending (or has bolted), a new bucket will be ready to harvest. This rotation keeps you in salads continuously. Lettuce doesn’t mind crowding too much if you’re harvesting leaves frequently, but adequate airflow is key to prevent fungal issues. If you see mildew or rot on lower leaves, thin out the plants a bit and ensure they’re not too soggy. Lastly, watch out for slugs/snails – they can climb buckets. A strip of copper tape around the bucket or keeping the bucket on a raised stand can deter those slimy leaf-munchers. For more pest deterrent tricks, the Natural Insect Defense in the Garden guide has additional ideas like using garlic or other natural repellents around your containers.

5. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

Spinach is another leafy green that adapts wonderfully to container life. In fact, growing spinach in a 5-gallon bucket can give you a steady supply of tender greens for smoothies and sautés with minimal effort. Like lettuce, spinach has shallow roots and grows quickly, making it perfect for succession planting and early spring or fall gardens. The bucket allows you to control soil quality and move the plantings out of harsh weather, which spinach appreciates since it dislikes extreme heat.

Why It Thrives: Spinach enjoys cool, consistent conditions. In a bucket, you can ensure the soil is rich in organic matter and drains well, which spinach loves (it doesn’t do well in heavy clay or waterlogged ground). Also, buckets can be started indoors or in a protected spot to get a jump on the season and then relocated. Because you can situate the bucket in partial shade as temperatures climb, you might eke out a longer harvest before bolting. And practically, a bucket placed at table height or on a bench makes harvesting those little leaves much easier on your back!

Planting Instructions: Fill your bucket with a mix of potting soil and compost. Sow spinach seeds about 1/2 inch deep. You can scatter a bunch of seeds and later thin them, or plant in a grid pattern (e.g., 3-4 inches apart). Spinach doesn’t mind being a bit crowded if you plan to harvest baby leaves, but for larger leaves give each plant room. Keep the soil moist until seeds germinate (spinach can be finicky to sprout in warm conditions; it germinates best in cool soil around 50-60°F). If starting in warm weather, germinate seeds indoors or in a cool spot. Thin seedlings to avoid overcrowding – aim for at least 3 inches between plants for baby leaf harvest, more if you want big plants. Unlike some other veggies, spinach doesn’t require a deep container; the 5-gallon bucket’s depth is more than enough, but that extra soil volume helps keep roots cool and moist. No need for stakes or trellises – spinach stays low.

Sunlight & Watering: Spinach grows well in full sun during cool months, but in late spring try partial shade. For example, 4 hours of direct sun plus bright indirect light can yield good spinach and may prevent it from bolting quickly. If your bucket can be placed where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade, that’s ideal as weather warms. Keep the soil evenly moist. Spinach is not drought-tolerant – dry spells will cause it to bolt (send up a seed stalk) in a hurry. Check soil moisture daily; the top should stay damp to the touch. Because buckets drain well, you might water every 1-2 days. Avoid splashing water on leaves if possible (to prevent disease); water at soil level or use a watering can with a narrow spout. Spinach is a relatively light feeder – if you prepared soil with compost, you might not need additional fertilizer for a short 6-8 week lifespan. If leaves look pale or growth is slow, a dose of fish emulsion or balanced liquid fertilizer can perk them up. Be careful not to over-fertilize, as excessive nitrogen can cause spinach to accumulate nitrates (and also can lead to more pest issues on lush growth). A little boost mid-season is fine.

Harvesting Tips: Begin harvesting spinach once leaves are a few inches long. For baby spinach, you can pinch off outer leaves from each plant, taking what you need and letting the rest grow. The plant will continue producing new leaves from the center. Alternatively, do a “cut and come again” harvest by shearing all plants down to about 2 inches tall – they may regrow for a second harvest if temperatures remain cool enough. For larger, mature leaves or specific varieties (like Bloomsdale long-standing spinach), pluck individual leaves from the outer rosette, leaving the inner ones to size up. Harvest in the cool morning for best texture. If you notice any plant starting to form a thick stem or little clusters (preparing to bolt), harvest that one entirely right away – bolting makes leaves bitter. Spinach in buckets can be moved to a cooler spot if it seems like they’re bolting too soon. Fresh spinach is highly perishable after picking, so pick right before you plan to use it, or refrigerate it promptly.

Companion Plants: Spinach is a good team player – it can be sown alongside slower-growing plants like broccoli or cauliflower in a larger container (spinach will be harvested before those need all the space). In a 5-gallon bucket, you might intercrop spinach around a young pepper or eggplant transplant; by the time the larger plant grows, the spinach is done. Spinach also benefits from neighbors like radishes or lettuce that have similar needs. Just be cautious with all-in-one-bucket mixing – spinach roots are shallow, so a deeper-rooted companion could work (like a carrot or green onion in the center, with spinach around). One interesting pairing: strawberry and spinach – some gardeners tuck a few strawberry plants in the middle of a wide pot and plant spinach around the edges, getting two crops at once. Since our focus is buckets, you might not have room for that combo in one bucket, but you can certainly cluster a spinach bucket near your strawberry bucket. Avoid planting spinach near peas or beans if they’ll tangle – though actually peas provide partial shade which spinach might appreciate. In separate buckets, feel free to group spinach with any other cool-season crop. It’s also known to be a good companion to brassicas (cabbage family), possibly helping to deter some pests when interplanted.

Container Tips: Since spinach has a short season (it doesn’t last long once heat arrives), plan to succession sow. Start a bucket in early spring, then another a couple weeks later, etc., so you have a continuous supply of tender leaves. Once a bucket’s spinach is finished (bolted or mostly harvested), you can replant that same bucket with another crop (like beans for summer, or a fall planting of more spinach or lettuce). This makes efficient use of your container. Also, consider using shade cloth draped over or around the bucket as weather warms – even 30% shade cloth can drop the temperature a few degrees and prolong the life of your spinach. If growing in fall, start seeds in late summer indoors (when it’s too hot outside for germination) and transplant into the bucket outdoors as soon as nights cool down. Watch out for leaf miners (tiny larvae that tunnel in the leaves leaving white trails) – if you see those, remove affected leaves and consider covering the bucket with a light row cover to keep the adult flies away. Spinach in a bucket can actually avoid a lot of common soil pests and diseases, so you’re likely to have a very successful harvest. Enjoy those homegrown greens!

6. Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica)

Kale, the hardy super-green, is perfectly suited to bucket gardening. This leafy vegetable is both edible and ornamental, often thriving in containers on patios. A single 5-gallon bucket can host one or two kale plants that will produce tender baby leaves for salads or larger mature leaves for cooking over many months. Kale is more drought-tolerant and pest-resistant than some other greens, making it beginner-friendly in containers. Plus, it laughs at cold weather, extending your bucket harvest into late fall or even winter.

Why It Thrives: Kale has a fibrous root system that can adapt to container life as long as it has enough soil volume to draw nutrients and moisture. A 5-gallon bucket provides ample depth for kale’s roots (which might go 8-12 inches deep) and the width to allow for a full, bushy top growth. Growing kale in a bucket means you can place it in ideal sun (it enjoys full sun in cool weather, but tolerates partial shade, especially in heat) and also move it under shelter if cabbage worms or other pests become an issue (or easily cover it with netting). The controlled environment of a bucket also lets you have rich composty soil which kale loves for producing those vitamin-packed leaves. Many gardeners with limited space report great success with container kale – even Niki Jabbour, a container gardening expert, grows kale in fabric bags on her deck with excellent yieldssavvygardening.com.

Planting Instructions: Fill the bucket with a mix of potting soil and well-rotted compost or manure (kale is a heavy feeder). Plant 1-2 kale seedlings per bucket, depending on the variety (curly kale and Tuscan kale can get quite large, so one per bucket might be best; dwarf varieties could do two). If sowing from seed, plant a few seeds 1/2 inch deep and thin to the strongest plant(s) after they germinate. Space them out so they each have room to grow a rosette of leaves without overcrowding. Kale likes cool temperatures to start, so you can set out your bucket in early spring or even late winter (if it’s above freezing, kale can handle it). Ensure good drainage in the bucket to prevent root rot. There’s usually no need for stakes or supports as kale stems are sturdy, but if you let it grow very tall, a central stake could help in strong winds.

Sunlight & Watering: Give kale full sun in spring and fall. In summer, especially in warm climates, some afternoon shade will prevent wilting and bitterness (kale can actually survive summer heat but tastes better grown in cooler seasons). Aim for at least 4-6 hours of direct sun for optimal growth. Water consistently – kale doesn’t like to dry out completely. In a bucket, water when the top inch of soil is dry. During cool weather, that might be every 3-4 days; in hot weather or if the plant is large, every 1-2 days. Kale leaves will noticeably droop if too dry, and bounce back after a good soak – but try not to let it get to the wilting point often. Feeding kale is important for continuous leaf production. Mix a slow-release organic fertilizer into the soil at planting or use fish emulsion or compost tea every few weeks. Because you’ll be harvesting leaves regularly, the plant will benefit from replenishing nutrients. If leaves start to look pale or yellowish, that’s a sign to feed. Also, kale can handle frost (and even tastes sweeter after it), so keep your bucket outside into late fall, just ensuring the soil doesn’t totally freeze solid if you want to keep harvesting.

Harvesting Tips: You can start harvesting baby kale leaves when they are 3-4 inches long by pinching off the outer leaves. For larger leaves, allow the plant to grow 8-10 leaves; then pick the oldest, outer leaves as needed. Always leave at least 4-6 central leaves so the plant keeps growing. Kale will continuously produce new leaves from the top center. If you have one kale per bucket, it can get quite large – up to a few feet tall – and produce a lot. Don’t be afraid to harvest frequently; regular picking actually encourages new growth, much like pruning. You might even end up with a “palm tree” effect: a tall stem with the remaining leaves up top, which is fine. If the stem gets too leggy, you can always plant something decorative around it in the bucket, like a few pansies or trailing herbs to cover the bare stem – kale won’t mind a little company at its base. Watch for the tell-tale small holes in leaves which indicate caterpillars (like cabbage worms); if present, simply wash the leaves well and hand-pick any worms you find. You can also use an organic Bt spray if they become a problem. Kale in a bucket is easy to inspect for pests. Harvest leaves before they get old and tough; compost any that yellow or get chewed up too much. In cold weather, kale leaves can sometimes take on a purple tinge – that’s normal and often signals super sweet flavor due to sugars increasing as a natural antifreeze.

Companion Plants: In a bucket, you’ll likely keep kale by itself or with a small friend due to its size. If you want to interplant, consider low-growing, shallow-rooted companions like leaf lettuce or spinach around the edges while the kale is young – they will mature quickly and be harvested by the time the kale needs space. Another idea is planting chives or garlic chives in the same bucket; they can help repel some pests (onion/garlic family deterring pests is a trick in the garden). Calendula or marigolds in a nearby bucket can also repel insects and brighten up your container garden. Avoid planting other brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc.) right next to kale in containers, as they attract the same pests and compete for similar nutrients – better to separate them so an outbreak on one doesn’t spread easily to the other. Since kale can last a long time (it’s biennial, usually grown as annual but can overwinter), you might even underplant it with a few spring bulbs like crocus in the same bucket for fun – by the time kale is big, the bulbs are done. This is more ornamental though; most importantly, choose companions that won’t shade out your kale or steal too much root space.

Container Tips: Kale is hardy. If you have a mild winter, your bucket kale might survive through it; you can keep harvesting on warm days. In colder zones, you can extend the season by wrapping the bucket with burlap or bubble wrap to insulate roots and covering the plant with a light row cover or even a plastic tote overnight during hard frosts. It’s possible to keep kale alive down to 20°F (-6°C) or below with protection, and it will resume growing in spring for a second year (though it will want to flower that second year). Often, it’s simplest to replant each year, but it’s a fun experiment. Another tip: because kale is a long-season crop, watch the soil level in your bucket over time – it can settle or deplete. Top-dress with compost halfway through the season to add nutrients and keep the soil level up. This also encourages new feeder roots. If you encounter aphids (look for curled leaves or sticky residue), a quick remedy is to spray the kale leaves (tops and undersides) with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap, then rinse after an hour or so. In a bucket, you can even dunk the entire kale plant (hold the soil in with your hand) in a tub of soapy water to thoroughly get rid of aphids – try that in a ground garden! Container growing gives you these kinds of advantages for pest control. With minimal care, your bucket-grown kale will reward you with continual superfood greens for soups, salads, and kale chips galore.

7. Carrots (Daucus carota)

Carrots in a bucket? Absolutely! Growing carrots in 5-gallon buckets is an excellent solution if your garden soil is rocky or clay (which causes forked, ugly carrots). In a nice deep bucket filled with loose mix, carrots can grow straight and beautiful. Even though carrots are a root crop, many varieties don’t actually need more than 10-12 inches of depth, which a bucket provides. From crunchy orange classics to colorful purple or yellow carrots, you can harvest a sweet crop right outside your kitchen door.

Why They Grow Well: One of the main challenges with carrots is ensuring loose, rock-free soil for their roots to develop without obstruction. A bucket allows you to create the perfect soil mix – fluffy and stone-free. As Homes & Gardens expert Ruth Hayes says, “many people find it easier to grow carrots in containers of compost” to avoid debris that cause roots to forkhomesandgardens.com. Additionally, container carrots can be placed in ideal sun and kept consistently moist, leading to better germination and root growth. Buckets also can deter gophers and other underground pests that might plague in-ground carrots. And if you’re short on space, a bucket of carrots can even be placed in a small corner or balcony, then moved if needed (though moving is best done when they’re still small to avoid disturbing root formation).

Planting Instructions: Choose a carrot variety that fits the container. Shorter varieties like Chantenay, Nantes, or round “Parisian” carrots do especially well in buckets. But even longer types (some grow 8-10 inches long) can work since a 5-gallon bucket is usually about 12 inches deep – just ensure you have that depth of soil. Fill the bucket with a lightweight potting mix – you might even add extra perlite or sand to ensure it’s very loose. (Avoid heavy compost chunks or un-sifted soil; fine texture is key for straight carrots.) Sow carrot seeds thinly on the surface and cover with about 1/4 inch of fine soil. Carrot seeds are tiny and can take 1-3 weeks to germinate, so be patient and keep the soil moist by misting or gentle watering (you could lay a piece of burlap or cardboard on top for the first week to hold moisture, removing it once seedlings peek up). Once the seedlings are a couple inches tall, thin them out so that each carrot has about 1-2 inches of space around it. Thinning is crucial; crowded carrots will be stunted or oddly shaped. It might feel like you’re sacrificing potential plants, but those thinnings can be used as microgreens in a salad! Aim to end up with perhaps 15-25 carrot plants in a bucket, depending on variety and spacing. No need for supports or trellis – carrots are all below ground work.

Sunlight & Watering: Situate the carrot bucket in a sunny spot, ideally getting 6 or more hours of sun. Carrots do tolerate partial sun (4-6 hours), especially in hotter climates, and too much heat can cause them to taste bitter, so a little afternoon shade in mid-summer is fine. The key for carrots is consistent moisture during root development. Uneven watering (letting them dry, then soak, then dry) can cause the roots to crack or split. Check the soil often; if the top is drying out, water gently. As the carrot roots grow deeper, ensure water penetrates – you should see water come out the drainage holes at each watering, which signals full soil saturation. That might mean a quart or two of water per watering session for a bucket. Carrots don’t need heavy feeding; too much nitrogen can lead to abundant leafy tops at the expense of roots. If your potting mix had fertilizer or compost mixed in, they should be fine. Perhaps add a bit of balanced fertilizer once when tops are ~4 inches tall. One trick: use a root fertilizer or one slightly higher in phosphorus (the middle number) to encourage robust root growth. But in general, carrots are low-maintenance feeders. More important is to keep that soil loose – do not press down on the soil at any point; let the carrots push as they need.

Harvesting Tips: Most carrots will be ready to harvest in about 60-75 days, but this varies by variety (check your seed packet). You’ll know they’re getting mature when the carrot shoulders (tops of the roots) begin to show at the soil surface and reach a diameter close to the expected size (maybe 1/2 inch to 1 inch across). You can gently brush away a little soil at the top to peek at their size/color. To harvest, grasp the carrot tops at the base and wiggle the root as you pull upward. If it’s resistant, use a small hand trowel or even just your fingers to loosen the soil around it, or tip the bucket a bit. In super loose bucket soil, carrots often pull up easily. Harvest what you need, when you need it – carrots can actually be left in the soil past maturity and pulled as needed (especially in cooler weather, they store well in-ground). If you planted all at once, they might all reach maturity together; you can harvest them all and store in the fridge or layered in damp sand. Alternatively, for a continuous supply, succession plant a new round of seeds every few weeks in another bucket or the same bucket after first harvest. One caution: carrots are sweetest when harvested in cool conditions; a hot summer carrot might be less sweet, but still great for stews or roasting. If you planted in spring, try to finish harvests before the intense heat of mid-summer, or plan a late summer planting for a fall harvest (fall carrots that mature in chilly weather are often super sweet).

Companion Plants: In the bucket, you’ll likely just have carrots, possibly with a quick crop like radishes on top of them early on. Actually, a common technique is to sow radish seeds along with carrot seeds – radishes germinate and grow faster, breaking the soil crust and marking the rows, and they’ll be harvested in about 30 days, giving the carrots more space as they start sizing up. This can be done in a bucket too. Outside the bucket, consider placing it near green onions or chives – their odor can confuse carrot rust fly (a pest). Carrots also enjoy the company of peas (peas add nitrogen to soil), so maybe having a pea bucket nearby is nice, and marigolds reputedly help repel some root maggots and nematodes, so a marigold in the same bucket or a neighboring one could be beneficial and pretty. According to some companion planting lore, carrots and tomatoes are good neighbors (tomatoes may help disguise the scent of carrots from pests), so you could circle your tomato bucket with one or two carrot buckets. Just avoid planting dill or fennel near carrots – those herbs can release chemicals that may stunt carrot growth or attract carrot pests. Also, cilantro left to flower can attract beneficial insects that prey on aphids which sometimes affect carrot tops.

Container Tips: One of the best things about bucket carrots is pest control. You can easily cover the bucket with a fine mesh or row cover right after planting to prevent any carrot rust flies from laying eggs (these flies’ larvae chew tunnels in roots). Keep it covered until harvest, since carrots don’t need pollination (we eat the roots). If using a cover, ensure it still gets sunlight and you water through it or take it off to water. Another tip: after sowing carrot seeds, keep the soil surface moist – you can lay a wet newspaper or burlap over the soil until seeds sprout; just check daily. Carrot germination can be the trickiest part, but once they’re up, you’re golden. In hot weather, avoid letting the bucket’s soil overheat – you might wrap the bucket in white cloth or reflective material if under intense sun, or move it to a slightly cooler spot in afternoon. Carrots can tolerate a light frost, so spring or fall chills are fine; you can even keep a bucket outside into late fall and harvest as needed (just don’t let it freeze solid or you may need a hammer to get your carrots out!). If your carrots end up a bit small or twisted, don’t be discouraged – it often means they needed more thinning or the soil wasn’t loose enough. Adjust for the next round. Even those imperfect carrots will taste great in soup. With practice, you’ll be pulling up straight, store-worthy carrots from your bucket like a pro, and perhaps echo expert Christine Walkden’s sentiment that carrots “romp away in well-drained soil” when given the right container conditionshomesandgardens.com.

8. Radishes (Raphanus sativus)

Radishes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in a bucket – and among the fastest to harvest. If you’re craving quick results, radishes will go from seed to plate in as little as 25 days, even in a 5-gallon container. They’re small root veggies that don’t need much depth at all (most varieties only penetrate a few inches of soil), so a bucket is more than sufficient. Plus, radishes can be grown almost year-round except the hottest months, giving you a continuous rotation crop to fill gaps between other harvests.

Why They Thrive: Radishes prefer loose soil and cool temperatures, both of which a bucket can provide. You have complete control over soil texture – no stones or clods to cause mis-shapen radishes – resulting in plump, round roots. Also, growing in a bucket means you can start them early in spring (even indoors or in a sheltered spot) and move them out once the weather is mild, or bring them into part shade if late spring sun gets too intense. Radishes don’t like excessive heat; they’ll bolt and become spicy. With a bucket, you can literally pick it up and move it to chase the best conditions. Additionally, radishes germinate well in containers because the potting mix retains moisture evenly. They are also rarely bothered by pests in containers – root maggots can be an issue in ground soil, but fresh potting mix in a bucket is usually pest-free, especially for such a quick crop.

Planting Instructions: Fill your bucket with a fine-textured potting mix (radish roots are small, so clumpy soil will hinder them). Sow radish seeds about 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart in all directions. You can essentially sprinkle them then lightly rake your fingers through the soil to cover. For standard round radishes, a 5-gallon bucket can accommodate quite a few – perhaps 30 or more radishes – just avoid heavy crowding so each root can size up. If all seeds germinate too thickly, thin them early by pulling out some seedlings (you can eat the sprouts in salads). Radishes like to grow quickly; if they’re overcrowded or nutrient-starved, they’ll stay small. Water after sowing and keep the soil consistently moist during germination, which takes just 3-7 days. Because radishes grow so fast, you generally don’t need to fertilize mid-grow (it’s actually better not to give too much nitrogen, or you’ll get lush leaves and tiny roots). If your mix had compost or fertilizer pre-mixed, that’s sufficient for one radish crop. Ensure the bucket’s drainage holes are clear – radishes won’t bulb well in waterlogged soil.

Sunlight & Watering: Radishes prefer full sun in cool weather, but as temperatures warm, they do fine in partial shade. Aim for at least 4-6 hours of sun. In spring, maximum sun is great; in late spring or summer plantings, a little afternoon shade can prevent stress. Water is crucial – radishes that dry out will turn woody or split. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout their short growing cycle. Check daily; since the bucket is relatively small, it can dry faster than ground soil. However, don’t overwater to the point of sogginess, which can cause roots to rot. A simple test: stick your finger in up to the first knuckle – if it’s dry at that depth, water. If you planted radishes in early spring, rainfall might handle a lot of the watering, but do monitor since a bucket can drain faster. If heavy rain is forecast, you could even move the bucket under cover to avoid saturating them (radish roots can split if they go from very dry to very wet rapidly). As for feeding, usually none is needed for such a quick crop. If reusing the same soil for multiple radish successions, mix a little balanced fertilizer or fresh compost between plantings to replenish nutrients.

Harvesting Tips: Because radishes mature quickly, mark your calendar or check them often around the expected harvest date. You’ll see the shoulders of the radishes pushing up at the soil line when they’re about ready. You can also gently brush soil aside to gauge their size. Harvest radishes promptly once they reach a good size (typically about 1 inch diameter for round radishes, or per packet instructions). If left too long, they can get pithy (hollow/spongy) and overly spicy. Grasp the radish top and pull straight up – in a loose bucket mix, they should come out easily, bringing that satisfying pop of a bright red (or purple, white, etc.) globe. Harvesting is fun for kids, too, like a treasure hunt in a bucket. If a radish resists, use a small garden fork or even an old kitchen fork to pry around it. You can harvest all at once or pick a few each day as needed – radishes hold well in soil for a short period, but try to get them out before they start flowering (bolting). If you see any flower stalks forming, pull those plants immediately; the root will stop developing once they bolt. After harvesting, cut off the leaves (which are edible too, great in pesto or sautés) and store the radish roots in the fridge to keep them crisp. If you didn’t thin perfectly, some radishes might be small – you can still eat them (they might be extra zesty) or let them grow a bit longer if space permits. For continuous harvests, plan to sow a new batch of radish seeds every 2-3 weeks, using the same bucket or rotating to a second bucket. They grow so fast that by the time one batch is finishing, the next can be starting.

Companion Plants: Radishes make wonderful companions because they’re short-term and can occupy the spaces between slower plants. In a bucket scenario, you can sow radishes around a longer-season plant. For example, if you have a bucket with a young eggplant or pepper seedling, sprinkle radish seeds in the open soil around it. The radishes will be ready to harvest by the time the eggplant gets big. This maximizes the use of space and provides a bonus crop. Radishes also reportedly repel some pests like cucumber beetles (some gardeners interplant radish with cucumbers or squash). Even if you don’t co-plant in the same bucket, you could place a radish bucket near squash plants as a trap crop for pests. Because radishes are related to cabbages (brassica family), avoid planting them in the same container as cabbage or kale to prevent shared diseases or pests – but near each other in separate buckets is fine. They pair well with carrots and lettuce as well; as mentioned, radishes can be sowed with carrots – in a bucket of carrots, you might sow radishes along the edges. The radishes will break soil crust and mark rows, then you pull them and let carrots continue. Essentially, radishes get along with most veggies because they’re in and out so quickly. Just ensure the main bucket occupant (if any) is compatible with frequent watering and the timing of radish harvest.

Container Tips: If you find your radishes didn’t bulb up well, the likely causes are overcrowding (thin them more next time), lack of light (ensure enough sun), or too much heat (grow in cooler temps). Buckets can actually help alleviate the heat issue by letting you move them to a cooler spot. Some gardeners even start radish buckets indoors under lights during summer – radishes don’t require pollination, so you could theoretically grow them entirely inside or on a windowsill if it’s not too hot. Another tip: try different radish varieties for fun. Cherry Belle is the classic red radish, but there are Easter Egg radishes (various colors), French Breakfast (elongated), white icicle radishes, etc. All can do well in containers. If you want to grow the larger Asian daikon radishes, you might only fit a few in a bucket since they need more depth – consider a deeper container or focus on the small types in a 5-gallon. Since buckets are portable, one cool trick is to use them seasonally – for example, start a bucket of radishes in very early spring (even indoors), then as soon as it’s warm enough, put it outside. Harvest those radishes in April, then use the same bucket and soil (with a nutrient refresh) to plant a pepper or another summer plant. Later, come fall, maybe plant radishes again in that bucket after the summer crop is done. They are the perfect “filler” crop to keep your containers productive between main seasons. And don’t forget: radish greens are edible. If you end up with some radishes that got too spicy or woody, let them flower – the blossoms will attract pollinators, and even the seed pods of radishes are edible and taste like spicy peas. Bucket gardening allows these kinds of experiments in a controlled way. All in all, radishes are nearly foolproof in containers – a satisfying project for beginners and a quick reward for any gardener.

9. Beets (Beta vulgaris)

Beets are another root crop that perform surprisingly well in containers. If you love sweet, earthy homegrown beets, try growing them in a 5-gallon bucket. You’ll get not only the flavorful roots but also a bonus: beet greens that you can harvest as nutritious leafy greens. Beets have moderate root depth (most types grow bulbs 2-4 inches in diameter and a taproot a bit deeper), so a bucket provides enough depth and plenty of space width-wise for a cluster of beet plants.

Why They Thrive: Like carrots and radishes, beets prefer loose soil without obstacles. In a bucket, you can give them fluffy, stone-free growing medium, resulting in uniform round beets. Also, buckets allow you to control moisture – beets need consistent moisture for proper development and to avoid getting tough. In heavy clay ground soil, beets might struggle, but in a potting mix environment they can reach full potential. Beets also do well in densely planted “rows” which you can simulate by scattering seeds in a bucket and thinning. Additionally, you can move the bucket to optimize sun or protect from extreme heat (beets like sun but can get stressed by very high temperatures). And because beets are susceptible to soil-borne diseases like scab in some soils, using a sterile potting mix avoids that issue.

Planting Instructions: Fill the bucket with a rich mix of potting soil and compost. Beet seeds are actually clusters (each “seed” often contains 2-4 seeds), so when they germinate you’ll see multiple seedlings from one spot. Sow beet seeds about 1/2 inch deep, spaced a couple of inches apart. If you want to be methodical, aim for a grid of seeds that gives each beet about 3 inches of space in all directions eventually. But you can also oversow a bit and plan to thin. Keep soil consistently moist until germination (which takes about 5-10 days). Thin the seedlings once they’re a couple inches tall so that ultimately each cluster of sprouts is thinned down to the strongest single plant. This usually means snipping or gently pulling extras so there’s roughly 3 inches between remaining seedlings. Thinnings can be transplanted if you do it very carefully (with enough root) or easier, just add them to your salad – baby beet greens have a mild, spinach-like taste. In a 5-gallon bucket, you might comfortably grow perhaps 8-10 beets (for larger varieties) or more if you harvest some early as baby beets. Ensure the bucket drains well, as beets will suffer in waterlogged conditions.

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun (6+ hours) is generally best for beets, leading to good root formation and lush greens. In warm climates, they can handle part sun (4-6 hours) especially if that avoids the harshest afternoon rays, which can sometimes cause the roots near the surface to get too hot or dry. A bucket can be shifted as needed – early spring beets love sun, summer beets might need a touch of shade. Water consistently to keep the soil moist but not swampy. As the beetroots start swelling, even moisture is key; irregular watering might cause them to crack or develop concentric rings of different texture. Typically, a deep watering 1-2 times a week in cool weather, increasing to every other day in hot weather, is sufficient. Feel the soil a couple inches down – it should be slightly damp most of the time. Mulching the top of the soil with a thin layer of straw or shredded leaves can help retain moisture and keep the root zone cool. Fertilize beets lightly – too much nitrogen will favor leaves over roots (unless you primarily want greens). It’s a good idea to mix organic fertilizer into the soil before planting or use a balanced slow-release. Partway through the growing cycle (maybe around 4-6 weeks in), you can feed once with a balanced soluble fertilizer or side-dress with a little compost to keep them going. If leaves look pale or growth is slow, they might need a feeding. But often, potting mix has enough nutrients for one beet crop, especially if compost was added.

Harvesting Tips: Beets are usually ready to harvest in 6-8 weeks for most varieties (sooner if you want baby beets, longer for some heirloom or larger types). A key sign of readiness is the size of the bulb visible at the soil line – if you can see a plump root top 1.5 to 2 inches across, it’s likely ready. You can carefully dig around one beet to check size. Harvest by grasping the base of the greens and pulling upward while maybe using your other hand or a small trowel to loosen the soil at the sides. In a loose bucket mix, they often come out easily. Harvesting is easier when the soil is a bit moist (but not sopping). If it’s very dry, water first to soften it. You can take beets out one by one as needed, or pull the whole crop at once. If pulling incrementally, try to take the largest ones and leave smaller ones to size up a bit more (just don’t disturb those remaining too much). Beet greens are fully edible and delicious – you can harvest a few young leaves from each plant during growth to use like chard or spinach, just don’t remove all the leaves from any one plant or you’ll stunt the root growth. When harvesting the root, you get a bonus bunch of greens too; cut them from the root, and they’ll keep a few days refrigerated (or cook them immediately – they’re so nutritious). If some beets are left in the bucket too long, they may get woody (especially in heat). Try to harvest before that – typically under 2.5-3 inches diameter is ideal for tenderness. If your beets are small despite a long time, likely they were too crowded or needed more nutrients. But even golf-ball sized beets are perfectly fine to eat.

Companion Plants: Beets get along with a variety of other plants. In the bucket itself, you could interplant with something like scallions (green onions) or herbs that don’t compete much – perhaps plant a few scallion sets or seeds around the edges of the bucket; they’ll grow upright and not interfere with beet roots, and can deter pests. Some gardeners plant garlic chives or garlic cloves with beets to ward off animals and pests. Beets also do well in proximity to bush beans (beans can add nitrogen to soil which helps leafy growth). If you have a bean planted in the center of a bucket and beets around, that could work, although usually we dedicate the whole bucket to beets for simplicity. One traditional companion for beets is kohlrabi or broccoli because they root at different depths, but fitting those together in one bucket is not recommended (broccoli/kohlrabi would overshadow beets). Instead, you can place a beet bucket near your broccoli bucket and they’ll be fine. Avoid planting beets in the same container as pole beans or field mustard; beans can inhibit beet growth if too close (though bush beans are okay a bit further off), and mustard greens can release substances that hinder beets. Also, because beets are in the chenopod family (with chard and spinach), they share similar nutrient needs; some advice says they grow well near each other, but in a bucket you might not combine them due to space competition. Perhaps more importantly, don’t mix beets with large root competitors in one bucket (like carrots or potatoes) – each needs its own space. Keep the beet bucket’s soil dedicated to beets or tiny companions like scallions or lettuce interplanted (leaf lettuce can be grown among beets and harvested young, as they don’t impede the roots much).

Container Tips: If you plan well, you can get multiple beet crops from one bucket in a year. For example, sow in early spring for a late spring harvest, sow again in late summer for a fall harvest. You can even overwinter beets in place by keeping the bucket in a cold frame or garage; they’ll sit dormant if it’s cold enough and you can harvest as needed (or they might start growing again as it warms). One challenge in containers can be temperature control – on a very hot patio, the bucket soil might get warm which beets don’t love. Try shading the sides of the bucket or moving it during heat waves. Also, if heavy rain or storms come, small beet seedlings could be disturbed, so temporarily moving them under cover can protect the soil from splashing out and seedlings from getting battered. Use those bucket mobility perks! Watch out for a few pests: leaf miners sometimes affect beet greens (you’ll see white squiggly trails in leaves) – if that happens, remove affected leaves and dispose of them; covering the bucket with a row cover can prevent the adult fly from laying more eggs. Flea beetles might chew tiny holes in leaves; they usually don’t kill the plant, but you can deter them with neem oil or by companion planting with strong-smelling herbs. Fortunately, beet roots themselves often avoid pests in containers. After harvesting your beets, that soil can be re-used for a less demanding crop, or rejuvenated with compost for another round. It might be slightly depleted of phosphorus (root growth uses a good bit), so add a tad of bone meal or all-purpose organic fertilizer before the next planting. With the vibrant beet reds and purples, a bucket of beets can even be decorative on your patio. And when you roast your own homegrown beets or toss the fresh greens into a stir-fry, you’ll taste the sweet success of bucket gardening!

10. Green Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris)

Fresh green beans (snap beans) are a container garden favorite, especially bush varieties that stay compact. A 5-gallon bucket can grow bush beans very well, yielding plenty of tender pods for the dinner table. Even pole beans, which climb, can be grown in a bucket if given a trellis – they’ll just need more vertical space. For our purposes, bush beans (often labeled “container” or “dwarf” beans) are ideal because they don’t require tall supports and they produce quickly. Think crunchy string beans right from your patio!

Why They Thrive: Beans have fairly shallow roots (most in top 6-8 inches), so they don’t require deep soil – a bucket is just fine depth-wise. They also enrich their own soil; beans are legumes that form associations with bacteria to fix nitrogen, improving soil fertility. This means they aren’t heavy feeders and can do well even in average potting mix. Bucket growing allows you to give beans warm soil (they germinate and grow faster in warm conditions), and you can relocate the bucket to maximize sun. Additionally, container beans often have fewer issues with ground pests and diseases. By providing rich, well-draining soil in the bucket, you avoid the compaction or poor drainage that can hinder beans in some gardens. Expert container gardeners even suggest that climbing beans can thrive in containers with a simple added trellissavvygardening.com – so the bucket environment is proven for beans.

Planting Instructions: If planting bush bean seeds, you can probably fit about 3-5 bean plants in a 5-gallon bucket. Space them evenly (imagine a dice 5 pattern or X pattern). Plant seeds about 1 inch deep. Sow them after all danger of frost when the weather is warm, because beans won’t germinate well in cold soil. If you prefer, you can start with seedlings, but beans generally sprout so easily from seed that direct sowing is simplest. Ensure your bucket has drainage and is filled with a good potting mix (beans aren’t too picky, but they do appreciate some compost mixed in). Water after planting and keep the soil moderately moist until germination (which usually happens in 7-10 days). If planting pole beans, maybe plant 3 seeds around a central bamboo teepee or small trellis inserted into the bucket at planting time (so you don’t disturb roots later). Pole beans need vertical support – you could even set the bucket against a fence and string twine up the fence for them to climb. Bush beans, however, will form a self-supporting little “bush” about 1-2 feet tall, no staking needed typically. It can be helpful to succession plant another bucket a few weeks later to extend your bean harvest, since bush beans tend to produce a big flush of beans and then taper off.

Sunlight & Watering: Beans love full sun – aim for 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. They will tolerate part sun (maybe 5 hours) but yield might be lower. Warmth is key: buckets in full sun will warm the root zone nicely, which beans like (optimal temps for growth are 70-85°F). Watering should be regular. Beans prefer evenly moist soil but can suffer if waterlogged. In a bucket, usually that’s easy to manage with drainage holes. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Bush beans will start flowering and setting pods quickly, and they need water especially during flowering and pod fill to get nice juicy beans. In hot weather, container beans might need water every day or two, as their leaves can wilt in intense sun. Try not to overhead water the foliage in the evening (to prevent diseases like powdery mildew or rust); water at soil level or earlier in the day so leaves dry off. As for feeding, beans typically don’t require much fertilizer – too much nitrogen can actually result in more leaves than beans (since they fix some nitrogen themselves). If your potting mix had no fertilizer at all, you could add a balanced slow-release at planting or a small dose of all-purpose fertilizer when they start flowering, but often the compost in mix plus their nitrogen-fixing ability suffices. If leaves look pale, a light feeding with a fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer can help. They also appreciate some potassium for good flowering (some wood ash in the soil or an organic bloom fertilizer could be used lightly).

Harvesting Tips: Bush beans usually start producing about 50-60 days from seeding, sometimes sooner for certain varieties. Harvest green beans when the pods are plump but before the seeds inside bulge too much (you want the pod to be fleshy and the inner seeds still small for best tenderness). This is generally when pods are about as thick as a pencil, depending on variety. Simply grab the pod and give a little snap or use scissors to avoid tugging the plant. Beans tend to set in flushes – you might pick a handful every day or two once they get going. Frequent picking is important: the more you pick, the more beans the plant will produce. If you leave mature pods on the plant, it will get the signal to stop flowering (thinking it’s done its job of making seed). So keep those pods picked to encourage continued bloom. If you want some dried beans or seeds for next planting, leave a couple pods at the very end to mature and dry out. For pole beans, the same frequent harvesting applies; they often produce over a longer period continuously. Check the plants daily as beans can go from tender to oversized in just a day or two in warm conditions. The advantage of bucket-grown beans is they’re at a nice height to harvest – no bending all the way to the ground. After the main flush, bush bean plants might look a bit tired; you can remove them and replant a new batch (especially if mid-summer, you can plant another round for fall harvest). Or sometimes bush beans will take a brief break and then give a smaller second flush of beans. If the foliage still looks healthy, try feeding and watering well after the first big harvest, and you might get more flowers.

Companion Plants: Beans pair nicely with many other plants and often help their neighbors by enriching soil nitrogen. In a bucket, you might not mix too much else with bush beans because they fill the space, but one strategy is to plant a few radishes or lettuce around the edges when starting beans. The radishes will mature before the bean plants get too bushy and can be pulled out, and lettuce could be harvested as baby greens early. Also, bush beans are short – so you could have a taller plant in the center and bean plants around if the timing works (for instance, a dwarf tomato in center and beans around edge, but 5-gallon might be a bit tight for that combo). Perhaps better to give beans their own bucket though. Nearby companions in other buckets that benefit beans include carrots and beets (which enjoy the nitrogen beans add to soil; in rotation or close proximity this helps). Beans also don’t love too much allium family in their own soil, but having a bucket of garlic or onions nearby can repel bean beetles. Just avoid planting beans with plants that have drastically different needs – e.g., beans like consistent moisture, so don’t pot them with a drought-loving herb like rosemary. Also, keep in mind beans can fix nitrogen, but they only “share” it fully once the plant decomposes or through the soil – so if you plan a crop that needs nitrogen after beans, use that bucket’s soil for a heavy feeder like leafy greens next. Companion planting lore suggests beans and marigolds are a good combo (marigolds deter nematodes and pests), so having a marigold in the same bucket or adjacent could be beneficial and attractive.

Container Tips: One thing to watch with beans in buckets is support. While bush beans don’t vine, they can sometimes flop a bit when loaded with pods. If you notice branches leaning over, you could stick a small cage or a few twigs in the bucket for support, or even tie some soft string around the plants to hold them upright. It’s usually not a big issue, but if space is tight on your patio, keeping them tidy might be desired. For pole beans, definitely provide a trellis – a tripod of three stakes tied at the top can work well stuck in a bucket. Container-grown beans also may avoid some common garden issues like rabbits (which love bean plants) and ground rot. Do keep an eye out for spider mites in hot, dry weather (if undersides of leaves get tiny red specks and webbing, spray with water or insecticidal soap). Aphids might appear on tender new growth; again, a quick soapy water spray or just squishing them can control that. Bean leaves sometimes get spots from fungal diseases especially if watered from above late in day – container placement can help by keeping them in good airflow. If disease hits one batch, don’t reuse that soil for another batch of beans; rotate to a different crop in that bucket and use fresh mix for new beans to avoid carryover. Lastly, after harvesting, the spent bean plants can be chopped up and composted – but note that their roots have little nitrogen nodules that will enrich the soil. Some gardeners will actually just cut the plant at soil level and leave the roots in the soil to break down and release nitrogen (especially for next crop). In a bucket, you could try this and then top up with some new mix and plant, say, some lettuce or kale for fall, taking advantage of the bean’s soil boost. Fresh green beans grown in a bucket taste just as delicious as those from a big garden – and often you get them sooner because the container warms up fast. Enjoy those crunchy pods straight off the plant – one of the joys of summer!

11. Peas (Pisum sativum)

Sweet garden peas are a delight to grow and snack on, and they too can flourish in a 5-gallon bucket. Whether you prefer snap peas, snow peas, or shelling peas (English peas), all can be grown in containers. Peas are cool-season plants, often one of the first crops planted in spring. A bucket allows you to get them going even earlier by starting indoors or in a protected spot, then moving outside. Peas are vining by nature (even “bush” pea varieties tend to sprawl a bit), so providing some support in the bucket will help maximize your yield and keep the plants healthy.

Why They Thrive: Peas have relatively shallow roots (most within 8 inches of the surface), so they don’t need deep soil – perfect for a bucket. They also fix nitrogen similar to beans, which means they aren’t heavy feeders and can improve the soil for later crops. In a container, you can ensure peas get well-drained soil; they dislike soggy feet, which can cause rot. Bucket planting also makes it easy to protect peas from their biggest challenge – sometimes warming spring soil – since you can start the bucket in a warmer location or cover it. As expert Niki Jabbour mentions, even vining veggies like peas can thrive in containers with a simple trellis addedsavvygardening.com. Peas actually do well slightly crowded, and in a bucket you can achieve that density while still controlling conditions. Another benefit: rabbits and ground critters love pea shoots, but a bucket is easier to guard or keep elevated out of harm’s way.

Planting Instructions: Peas are usually direct-sown from seed. In a 5-gallon bucket, you can plant them fairly intensively – for example, sow seeds about 2 inches apart in all directions, maybe in a grid or simply evenly spread (as long as each has a little room). They’ll climb upwards mostly, so you can have quite a few in one container. Ensure the bucket has good drainage holes and fill with a potting mix enriched with some compost (though not too rich in nitrogen, as peas fix their own; too much N could lead to lots of foliage, fewer peas). Plant seeds about 1 inch deep. Because peas germinate best in cool (but not cold-soaking) conditions, you might pre-sprout them by soaking seeds overnight and then planting, or just be patient; they’ll sprout in 1-2 weeks depending on temp. If it’s still quite chilly, you can cover the top of the bucket with plastic wrap or a plastic lid (with a few air holes) to create a mini-greenhouse until they sprout. Once seedlings are a couple inches tall, provide a support trellis. For bush peas (short varieties maybe 2-3 feet tall), a short trellis or even some twigs stuck in the bucket can suffice. For taller varieties, use bamboo canes or a small section of wire fencing rolled into a cylinder inside the bucket. You could also put the bucket against a railing and let peas climb that. The tendrils will grab onto whatever is nearby. If they have nothing, the plants will flop over, so do give them a net, strings, or any lattice to climb – you’ll get cleaner, more productive vines. You can thin the seedlings lightly if they all come up and it looks like a jungle; leave maybe 10 plants that will climb nicely. If starting with nursery pea seedlings (less common, but sometimes available), plant them at the same depth they were in their pots, spaced out in the bucket.

Sunlight & Watering: Peas like full sun in spring (which is typically mild), but as the weather warms, they don’t mind part shade especially during hot afternoons. Aim for at least 5-6 hours of sun. Too much heat will shorten their productive period (they are a cool-season crop). One trick with containers: you can start peas in full sun, then when summer arrives and they’re still producing, move the bucket to a spot with a little shade to extend their life. Water peas regularly but be cautious not to overwater early on. They sprout in cool, damp conditions but won’t tolerate waterlogged soil. Once established, water when the top inch is dry. They have a fairly high water need when flowering and filling pods – keep soil evenly moist during that time or else pods may be small or misshapen. However, avoid constantly wet soil; they do best with moist but well-drained conditions. In containers, you may need to water more often as late spring days get warmer – maybe every other day or so. Yellowing lower leaves can indicate too much water (or sometimes not enough – check soil to discern). Fertilizer: Peas generally don’t need much feeding. A little bone meal mixed in can help with flowering/fruiting (phosphorus), but they usually find what they need if some compost was in the mix. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer – it’s not necessary and can reduce fruiting. If the plants look a bit weak or pale, a light dose of fish emulsion or all-purpose fertilizer when they start to vine can give a boost, but often container soil has enough for their short growing cycle.

Harvesting Tips: Harvest peas when the pods are plump (for snap and shelling peas) or when flat but well-formed for snow peas. Generally, pick early and often. For snap peas (edible pod variety like sugar snaps), the pod should be filled out with peas but still shiny green and tender – taste one to judge sweetness and texture. For shelling peas (English peas that you remove from pods), wait until pods are nicely rounded but not so mature they lose their bright green color; overripe pods get dull and those peas turn starchy. Snow peas (the flat ones) should be picked when pods are elongated but before peas inside swell much. Use two hands when picking – hold the vine with one hand and pull the pod off with the other, to avoid yanking the whole vine (they’re somewhat fragile). Pea plants tend to produce over a few weeks. Each flower gives one pod, and if you keep removing pods, the plant will try to produce more flowers (to make seeds). In bucket culture, you might find the flush is strong and then tapers. Once weather gets hot (consistently above 75°F), peas often slow or stop flowering. You can extend by providing shade or just enjoy the season and then compost the plants. Another tip: if you keep peas well-picked and the plants stay healthy, sometimes they’ll revive a bit in late summer if kept alive, or you can attempt a fall pea crop by planting again in late summer for fall harvest (especially in containers since you can manage their environment somewhat). The pea greens (tendrils and young shoots) are also edible and delicious – you can snip a few tendrils for salads or stir-fries without hurting the plant too much (just don’t defoliate them entirely). When pea production ends, you can cut the vines at the base and toss them in compost; the roots left in the bucket will release nitrogen as they break down, benefitting the next thing you plant there.

Companion Plants: Peas fix nitrogen, so they’re great to precede or accompany hungrier plants. In the same bucket, there’s not a lot of room for other crops once peas are growing. However, some people plant a few radish or spinach seeds in the bucket with peas early on, which can work since peas grow upright and radish/spinach can occupy some ground space early (harvested before pea vines get too dense). You could also edge the bucket with a dwarf marigold or two which might help deter pests and add color (peas have pretty white flowers, but marigolds add yellow/orange and help with soil pests). Just avoid heavy feeders or tall plants with peas in one bucket – peas don’t like root disturbance or shade from other plants. Nearby in other buckets, good companions are carrots, beets, turnips – traditionally the “Three Sisters” companion planting involves corn, beans, squash (though that’s beans not peas), but for peas, think of pairing with things like carrots or radishes which enjoy the extra nitrogen peas provide. Since peas climb, one creative idea: place your pea bucket in the middle and surround it with other bucket veggies that are lower-growing, so the peas can climb up something (like a central trellis) and not shade out others too much. Peas also coexist well with mint or cilantro in close quarters – but I wouldn’t share a bucket, rather a neighboring pot. A caution: don’t plant alliums (onions, garlic) in the same container as peas; they can stunt legumes if root-intertwined. But having an onion bucket nearby is fine if the roots aren’t mingling.

Container Tips: Peas enjoy cooler weather and can handle light frosts. Using your bucket advantage, you can sow peas indoors in late winter in the bucket, then move it outside when it’s just warm enough – essentially giving you a head start. If a hard freeze threatens, just bring the bucket into a shed or garage overnight. Peas typically aren’t grown in mid-summer, but if you want to try a fall crop, start seeds in a shaded cool area (or indoors) in late summer and once they germinate, keep the bucket where it gets cooler morning sun and afternoon shade to nurse them along until fall weather arrives. Watch for pests like aphids, which love pea shoots – you might see clusters of tiny green aphids on tender tips. Blast them off with water or use insecticidal soap. Powdery mildew can strike peas, especially in containers that get warm – it looks like white powder on leaves. Prevent by ensuring good airflow (don’t crowd seedlings too much, have that trellis support), and if it appears, remove affected leaves and consider a milk-water spray or neem oil to slow it. But often by the time mildew hits, peas are near done anyway. Another benefit of buckets: you can place them to avoid high mildew risk (for example, avoid placing peas in a super humid, stagnant air corner). After pea season, the soil in the bucket will be richer in nitrogen, perfect for a follow-up planting of a leafy crop like lettuce or kale. That’s efficient container crop rotation! Growing crunchy peas in a bucket is not only possible, it’s quite fun – you might find yourself sitting on the porch, picking peas straight off the vine and eating them raw, because they’re so sweet when super fresh. That experience is one of the joys of edible gardening in any space.

12. Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum)

Homegrown potatoes are often touted as a perfect candidate for bucket or container growing. Gardeners have grown potatoes in everything from sacks to trash cans, so a 5-gallon bucket is definitely capable of producing a nice little crop of spuds. While a single bucket won’t yield bushels of potatoes, it’s a satisfying way to grow a few meals’ worth, and harvesting them is as easy as dumping out the bucket – no digging required! Potatoes do have deeper roots than many veggies on this list, but clever techniques like “hilling” (adding soil as they grow) allow even a 5-gallon bucket to accommodate their needs.

Why They Thrive: Potatoes thrive in loose, well-drained soil and often suffer in compacted or rocky ground. A bucket lets you provide fluffy growing medium and adjust the depth as the plant grows. Additionally, container potatoes can avoid soil-borne diseases (like blight or scab) that might be present in garden soil. Expert growers note that growing potatoes in buckets is a great way to experiment and reduce disease risk, plus it makes the plants portableepicgardening.com. The bucket warms up the soil earlier in spring, encouraging faster growth. And because you’re effectively “raising” the soil level by filling the bucket gradually (if using the hilling method), you encourage more tubers to form along the buried stem. Also, pests like voles or certain insects find it harder to get to container potatoes. In short, buckets give you control over conditions – clean soil, good moisture control, and easy access for harvest.

Planting Instructions: Select a potato variety that is known to do well in containers. Early or mid-season potatoes that set tubers faster are good choices (like Yukon Gold, Red Norland, or fingerling potatoes). Seed potatoes (pieces with eyes) can be used. Many bucket growers will plant one or two seed potatoes per 5-gallon bucket – it sounds minimal, but potatoes need space to develop. If using larger seed potatoes, cut them into chunks with 1-2 eyes each and let them callus overnight before planting. For planting, there are two approaches:

Standard planting: Fill the bucket about 1/3 full with potting mix enriched with compost (ensure drainage holes!). Plant the seed potato about 4 inches deep in that soil (so maybe on top of 2-3 inches of soil and then cover it with another 2-3 inches). Water lightly. As the potato sprout grows and emerges, continue to add soil or straw around the stem (this is called “hilling up”) leaving just a bit of the top growth exposed. Keep doing this until the bucket is filled to about inches from the top. This encourages the plant to produce roots (and hence potatoes) along the buried stem section. Eventually, the bucket will be full of soil and hopefully many hidden potatoes.
Layering method: An alternative is starting with just a bit of soil, adding seed potatoes, then as it grows, adding layers of say straw or mix gradually. Essentially the same idea, just staged differently. Some people even start with the bucket half full, plant potatoes, then top it up gradually.

Either way, the goal is to simulate the practice of hilling in ground. Only fill the bucket to the brim once the plant is tall; you want new tubers always covered to prevent them from turning green (green = exposed to light, which makes them inedible). Make sure you don’t bury the entire plant too deep at once, or it might struggle; bury in stages as it grows. Usually, one seed potato can yield several tubers in a bucket. It’s tempting to plant more pieces, but overcrowding will result in many tiny potatoes or just a stressed plant. Stick with 1-2 pieces, 3 at most if they’re small and you’re okay with smaller taters. Use a quality potting mix – some like to mix in some sand or perlite for extra drainage because potatoes don’t like soggy conditions. Also mix in a slow-release organic fertilizer or some bone meal (for tuber development) at planting, since they’ll feed on that over the growing period.

Sunlight & Watering: Potatoes prefer full sun (6-8 hours). They grow best with lots of light and warmth on their foliage, but keep in mind the black plastic of many buckets can heat the soil too much in peak summer – if possible, choose a light-colored bucket or shade the bucket itself while keeping the plant in sun. Consistent moisture is critical for potatoes; uneven watering can cause issues like cracks or hollow heart in tubers. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Early in the season, you might water every few days; as the plant gets large and summer hits, a daily check is prudent – container potatoes can dry out quickly once the foliage is big and transpiring lots of water. Mulching the top of the soil with straw after final hilling can help retain moisture and keep the soil cooler. Avoid letting water sit in the bottom; proper drainage is a must to prevent rot. Regarding feeding: potatoes are moderate to heavy feeders, especially of phosphorus and potassium for tuber formation. If you didn’t incorporate a slow-release, you can feed them with a balanced or slightly higher potassium fertilizer when the plants start flowering (that’s when tubers really begin to bulk up). But don’t overdo nitrogen as that can make the plant put out too much leafy growth at the expense of potatoes. Often, compost in the mix plus some bone meal and maybe a side dress halfway through is sufficient.

Harvesting Tips: You have two opportunities to harvest potatoes: “new” potatoes early, or full mature ones later. New potatoes can be harvested usually shortly after flowering begins – these are the smaller, thin-skinned potatoes that taste delicious but don’t store long. In a bucket, you can sneak some out by gently feeling in the soil around the sides once the plant has flowered. Carefully remove a bit of soil and pluck a few young potatoes, then replace the soil. For the main harvest, wait until the potato plant has flowered and the foliage begins to yellow and die back. This typically is 10-12 weeks for early varieties, maybe 12-16 weeks for mid-season. Once the tops are mostly brown and withered, the tubers have likely reached maximum size and have set their skins for storage. Stop watering at this point for a week or so to let the soil dry out; this helps toughen the skins. Now the fun: tip the bucket over onto a tarp or large tray and carefully sift through the soil. You’ll feel like you’re hunting for treasure – and indeed, pulling out each potato is like finding gold nuggets. Make sure to check thoroughly so you don’t miss any (and inadvertently let one rot in leftover soil). If you’re not ready to use them all immediately, allow the potatoes to air dry for a couple hours in a cool, shaded spot to cure a bit. Then brush off excess soil (don’t wash if you want to store them) and keep the potatoes in a cool, dark place. If they’re thin-skinned new potatoes, eat those first as they won’t store long. Any potatoes with green patches (from light exposure) should have those parts cut off before eating, and if they’re very green, discard (green indicates solanine, which is bitter and not healthy to eat). From one bucket with one or two seed potatoes, you might harvest anywhere from a few to a dozen potatoes, depending on variety and care – likely a couple pounds at best. It’s a small haul compared to ground planting, but oh the flavor of just-dug potatoes! And absolutely zero backache from digging. If you want a bigger harvest, simply use multiple buckets!

Companion Plants: In the bucket itself, you won’t really companion plant with potatoes – they fill the container and you’re periodically adding soil, which would bury any companion. It’s best to give them a bucket to themselves. However, you can plan what to do with that soil or bucket next. A common strategy: after dumping out your potato bucket and harvesting, re-use that soil (with some refresh) to plant a quick fall crop like greens. The soil will be nicely aerated (from all those potatoes growing in it) and enriched with some extra organic matter from root remains. Be cautious not to plant another tomato-family crop (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) in the same soil immediately, in case of disease – crop rotation principles still apply in container gardening. As for external companions, marigolds around where you place the potato buckets can deter nematodes, and basil or catnip in nearby pots may repel some pests like aphids or potato beetles to some extent. Speaking of pests, the dreaded Colorado potato beetle can find container potatoes just as easily as garden ones. Check the foliage regularly for yellow-orange clusters of eggs underside of leaves, or for the beetles (yellow with black stripes) or their reddish larvae. Handpick and destroy any you find – container proximity makes it easy to monitor them. This pest aside, you shouldn’t have too many issues with others in a bucket scenario, since slugs or rodents are less likely to get into an elevated or enclosed container. One more note: sometimes people put bush beans or peas in rotation with potatoes to fix nitrogen that potatoes love – you could simulate that by, say, growing peas in early spring in that bucket, then when they finish, use that soil (with the benefit of peas’ nitrogen) to plant your potato for the summer. Or vice versa: after potatoes, use the residual nutrients for a bean crop. Just an idea for rotation.

Container Tips: Choose your bucket wisely – potatoes will produce more in a larger volume, so while 5-gallon works, some people prefer a 10-gallon container or a tall laundry basket, etc., to get higher yields. But 5-gallon is great for an introduction and for small varieties. Ensure at least 4-5 drainage holes; potatoes hate sitting water. One hack: if you have a food-grade bucket, you can cut out the bottom and place it on soil, essentially using it as a mini raised bed that can be lifted – but that defeats portability. For pure container style, bottom intact is fine with holes. During growth, if the plant looks very lush but you worry not many tubers are forming, cut back a bit on nitrogen and maybe prune a few top leaves to encourage energy downward. Also, you can gently feel into the soil (without disturbing roots much) to see if any tubers are near the surface – cover them if so, to prevent greening. If your bucket is outdoors in heavy rain, lay it on its side or bring under shelter if the foliage is very dense and it’s getting waterlogged (potato leaves can get blight if constantly wet, plus too much rain can rot tubers). Container potatoes usually avoid late blight (a devastating disease) unless spores blow in, but if you see black spots rapidly spreading on leaves and stems turning to mush, you might have it – at that point, salvage any unaffected tubers quick and discard the plant material away from other tomatoes/potatoes. Thankfully, this is less common in containers started with fresh mix. Another tip: use food-grade or at least clean plastic buckets, as potatoes are a food crop that will be in contact with the container material and soil for months – you want to avoid any leaching of harmful chemicals. (Many use the standard orange hardware buckets though; just something to consider.) Ultimately, harvesting potatoes from a bucket is a joyous moment – a payoff of burying those seed spuds months ago. It’s a fantastic project to do with kids too, as they can help “unearth” the treasure. And nothing compares to the taste of a potato dug just minutes ago – it’s sweeter and creamier than any store-bought one. Container potatoes show that even without a plot of land, you can still enjoy this staple crop from your own gardening effortsepicgardening.com.

[Related: 8 Amazing Uses of Epsom Salt for Tomatoes –] While potatoes aren’t tomatoes, they are botanical cousins. If you notice your potato plant leaves yellowing too early, it might indicate a magnesium deficiency; some gardeners apply Epsom salt solutions similarly as they do for tomatoes to green them up. You can learn that trick from our tomato Epsom salt guide above.

13. Eggplant (Solanum melongena)

For a touch of the exotic in your bucket garden, try growing an eggplant in a 5-gallon bucket. Eggplants (also called aubergines) actually do quite well in containers because they love warm soil and lots of sun – conditions a bucket can amplify. Varieties like the slender Asian eggplants or compact patio types are especially well-suited, but even a standard variety can produce in a bucket if cared for. Picture harvesting glossy purple (or white, or stripey!) eggplants right off your balcony for a delicious ratatouille or grill-out.

Why It Thrives: Eggplant is a warm-season crop with a relatively modest root system. Horticulturist Melinda Myers notes that peppers and eggplants will thrive in a bit smaller pot than something like a tomatomilorganite.com, meaning a 5-gallon bucket provides plenty of root room. The container’s warmth is a big advantage – eggplant roots love heat. Buckets also help maintain consistent soil moisture which eggplants appreciate to prevent flowers from dropping. Additionally, growing in a container can reduce issues with soil pests like nematodes that sometimes plague eggplants in the ground. And if needed, you can relocate the bucket to chase optimal sun or bring it to shelter if an early cold night threatens, extending your season. Many gardeners report higher yields from eggplants in containers versus in-ground, thanks to that controlled environment.

Planting Instructions: Plant one eggplant per 5-gallon bucket for best results. Start with a healthy seedling (eggplants can be started from seed indoors, but typically by the time you’re filling your bucket garden, you have a transplant ready). Ensure your bucket has good drainage holes. Fill it with a nutrient-rich potting mix; mix in some compost and perhaps a slow-release fertilizer (eggplants are somewhat heavy feeders). Bury the transplant at about the same depth it was in its pot (eggplants, unlike tomatoes, don’t generally need to be planted extra deep, but a tiny bit deeper won’t hurt if the stem is lanky). Firm the soil and water it in well. Eggplants often benefit from support – yes, even though they don’t vine, the plant can become top-heavy with fruit. Consider inserting a stake or tomato cage now at planting time so you can tie the stem as it grows, especially for taller varieties. Compact varieties might not need staking. Place the bucket in a very sunny, warm spot (e.g., near a south-facing wall that reflects heat). If nights are still cool (below 55°F), keep the plant protected or hold off planting outside; eggplants sulk in cold weather and are susceptible to flea beetles when stressed. If you want, you can also mulch the top of the soil with black plastic or dark pebbles to help retain heat early on – this is optional but can jumpstart growth.

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun is non-negotiable for good eggplant production – aim for 6-8+ hours of direct sun. These are sun-loving plants from tropical climates originally. The more sun, the more flowers and fruits (as long as water and nutrients keep up). Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. In a bucket, that often means watering once a day during hot summer periods, or every other day in milder conditions. Eggplant leaves can get quite large and somewhat wilt if underwatered on a scorching day, but they usually perk up by evening if given water. Avoid letting the soil completely dry out, as that can cause blossoms to drop or slow fruit development. On the flip side, don’t let the bucket sit in a tray of water constantly; good drainage must be maintained to prevent root rot. Using a layer of organic mulch (straw, for example) on the soil surface can help conserve moisture and keep roots cooler on extremely hot days, which eggplant actually likes warmth but consistent moisture too. Fertilize eggplant periodically – it’s a somewhat heavy feeder. A balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks or a side dressing of compost mid-season will keep it fruiting. If the plant is not flowering or looks pale green, it likely needs a feeding. Once it starts setting fruit, a bit more phosphorus and potassium helps (some people switch to a “bloom” fertilizer formula once flowering begins). However, if you incorporated slow-release granules at planting, monitor the plant’s vigor and maybe just supplement with a bloom booster later on if needed.

Harvesting Tips: Eggplant fruits (botanically berries) should be harvested when they are glossy and have reached the expected size for their variety, but before the skin becomes dull or the seeds inside turn brown. Glossy skin is a great indicator of ripeness. For standard globe eggplants, that might be when they’re 6-8 inches long and plump; for Japanese types, perhaps 8-10 inches long but slender; for small round ones, maybe 2-3 inches diameter. Always cut eggplants off with pruners or a sharp knife, rather than pulling – the stems are woody and you risk damaging the plant by yanking. Leave a short stub of stem attached to the fruit. Be careful of the little thorns that some eggplant calyxes (the green cap) have; wear gloves or clip carefully. Eggplants can be somewhat continuous in production: the more you pick ripe fruit, the more the plant will try to set new blossoms. If you leave fruits on to over-mature, the plant slows down (and the fruits also become spongy and bitter). So pick them young-ish and often. A neat trick: press the skin with your thumb – if it springs back and doesn’t leave an indent, the eggplant is ripe; if the indent remains, it’s overripe. After harvesting, store eggplants in a cool spot (not too cold, around 50°F – they don’t like refrigeration for long periods, it can damage them). Ideally, eat them fresh within a week for best flavor and texture. Container eggplants often produce 3-5 fruits per plant over a season (for larger varieties), or more if it’s a heavy-bearing type or conditions are excellent. If your bucket plant has tons of flowers but no fruit, check if they’re being pollinated – usually wind and bees do the job, but occasionally indoor-grown or very sheltered ones might need a gentle shake of the plant or hand-pollination with a brush to set fruit. Also, extremely high heat (90°F+) can cause blossoms to drop – container advantage: if it’s facing a heatwave, move the bucket to a slightly cooler spot in late afternoon.

Companion Plants: In the bucket itself, you won’t plant anything else with an eggplant because it will use the space. But nearby companions that can help might include marigolds (to deter nematodes or some pests in general), basil (some say basil improves flavor and growth of peppers and eggplants, plus it repels thrips and other pests; at least it’s a great culinary companion for dishes!), or thyme – there’s some research that thyme can repel certain caterpillars like the eggplant fruit borer. Having a pot of nasturtiums or petunias nearby can attract pollinators and also trap certain aphids. Eggplants share family with tomatoes and peppers, so avoid planting those in the same soil or right next to each other if you’ve had disease issues – in containers with fresh mix, it’s typically fine. They all can be grown in the same vicinity (just not same pot) as long as each has its space, though keep in mind pests like spider mites or whiteflies might hop between them if close. A nice thing about container grouping is you can inspect underside of leaves easily and catch any infestations early. On that note, check for flea beetles – tiny black jumping beetles that make little shot holes in eggplant leaves. These are common on eggplants especially when young. If the damage is minor, the plant usually outgrows it. If severe, consider using yellow sticky traps, diatomaceous earth on the soil, or neem oil spray to reduce them. Also, spider mites can hit eggplants in hot, dry weather (look for fine webbing and speckled leaves) – if so, rinse the foliage or use miticide soap. But having humidity or other plants around can sometimes keep mites at bay (they hate moisture). Strong-smelling herbs like rosemary or mint in nearby pots might also confuse pests. In general, eggplant isn’t too fussy about neighbors as long as they don’t shade it – it wants to be the star soaking up sun.

Container Tips: Because eggplants love heat, consider putting a reflective mulch on top of the bucket soil (like aluminum foil or reflective plastic) early in the season to bounce light and heat up under the leaves – this can boost growth and also deter some pests like flea beetles (they get disoriented by the reflection). Once weather is very hot, you can remove it and mulch with something like straw to conserve moisture instead. Another tip: If you have a dark-colored bucket, that will heat the root zone – which is good to a point, but extreme heat can harm roots, so if you notice the bucket getting scorching to touch, shade the container itself or wrap it in something insulating (even a white cloth) while keeping the plant exposed to sun. Pruning eggplant is usually not necessary, but you can pinch the very tip growth once it’s about 18 inches tall to encourage branching (more branches = more flowering points). Also, remove any withered yellow leaves at the bottom over time to keep plant healthy. If the plant sets a whole bunch of fruit at once and they’re all small, you can remove a couple so the rest get bigger – sometimes container eggplants benefit from thinning fruit if overloaded. But often one plant won’t overburden itself. End of season: if you have a short growing season, you can even bring the eggplant indoors or into a greenhouse when nights get cool – they are actually perennial in warm climates, so you could attempt to keep it alive (with a grow light) over winter and put it out again next year. However, many just compost the plant and start fresh each year due to potential pest buildup. Enjoy the process – seeing a vibrant purple (or neon white or lavender striped) eggplant hanging from a plant you grew in a simple bucket is very rewarding. It’s also a conversation starter on any patio! “You can grow eggplants in a bucket?” people might ask. Yes, indeed – and quite well, as your harvest will prove.

14. Strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa)

Sweet, juicy strawberries can absolutely be grown in 5-gallon buckets, turning a small space into a mini strawberry patch. Strawberries have fairly shallow roots and are often grown in containers, hanging baskets, or specialized strawberry pots. A bucket provides ample root room and the ability to grow multiple strawberry plants together (or one big one that sends out runners). With the right care, you can be snacking on sun-warmed berries just steps from your kitchen. And because strawberries are perennial, you could potentially overwinter them and get harvests for a couple of years from the same bucket.

Why They Thrive: Strawberry plants are compact and do not need deep soil – about 6-8 inches depth is sufficient for roots, so a bucket’s depth is more than enough. Container growing helps control the soil quality, ensuring it’s rich and well-drained (strawberries hate soggy soil). Buckets also raise the plants off the ground, protecting berries from ground-dwelling pests like slugs and many fungal diseases that splash up from soil. As gardening expert Bob Flowerdew advocates, “bigger is better” for strawberry containers and growing in old buckets can yield “massive crops” of berrieshomesandgardens.com. Each plant has plenty of room for its root system, which can translate into lots of blooms and fruit. The bucket can be moved to chase sunlight or give midday shade in scorching weather, helping to extend the fruiting season. Additionally, buckets can be outfitted with holes on the sides to create a tiered strawberry planter (though that’s more a “strawberry tower” concept; with a single bucket, you’ll likely plant on top only, but multiple plants). Using a bucket, you can also more easily protect your berries from birds (by draping netting over the bucket) – much simpler than netting an entire garden bed.

Planting Instructions: Start with healthy strawberry plants – either bare-root runners or potted starts. Day-neutral or everbearing varieties are great for containers because they fruit throughout the season (examples: Seascape, Albion, Ozark Beauty), giving a steady supply rather than one big June crop. Fill the bucket with a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost. Ensure excellent drainage via holes in the bottom and even some on the lower sides if possible (strawberry roots should not sit in water). Plant 3-4 strawberry plants in a 5-gallon bucket, spacing them evenly (think of a few inches from the bucket edge and apart from each other). You want to avoid overcrowding so each gets light and airflow. Make sure the crown of each strawberry (the growing point where leaves emerge) is at soil level, not buried (or it may rot) and not too exposed (roots shouldn’t be showing). Firm the soil gently around the roots. Water them in well. If using bare-root plants, fan out their roots in the soil and ensure the crown is right at surface level. You could also do one plant per bucket if you want it to produce a lot and send out runners that fill the bucket later – but initially, multiple plants will yield more fruits sooner. Strawberries in buckets can send out runners (baby plants on stolons); you might let one or two runners root in the same bucket to thicken your patch, but if it gets crowded, periodically trim runners or relocate them to new containers to maintain productivity of the mother plants. It’s often recommended to pinch off the first flowers of newly planted strawberries for the first few weeks to let them establish – with day-neutral types, maybe just the first flush, then let them fruit. If your bucket will remain outdoors over winter in a cold climate, consider that strawberry roots in a container can freeze (they’re less insulated than in-ground). You may need to protect the bucket (wrap in insulation, or bury it, or move to an unheated garage) in winter to help plants survive. In moderate climates, just mulching them or tucking bucket in a sheltered spot may suffice.

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun (6-8 hours) is ideal for sweet, abundant strawberries. More sun typically equals more and better berries, up to a point. In very hot climates, they appreciate afternoon shade during peak summer to avoid scorched leaves or fried fruit. So if you’re in zone 8+, maybe give them morning sun, afternoon shade come July. But generally, lots of sun makes for happy strawberries. Keep the soil consistently moist. Strawberries have fairly high water needs, especially when flowering and fruiting. In a bucket, check moisture daily. The soil should be kept like a wrung-out sponge – not sopping, but never bone dry. If they dry out, you’ll see them wilt and the fruit can be undersized or abort. Too much dryness can also cause bitter or hollow berries. On the flip side, sitting in water can cause root rot or disease like red stele. With good drainage holes, overwatering is usually only a concern if the pot can’t drain or if you water way too often without letting the top little bit dry. It’s wise to water in the morning so the plants go into the heat of day well-hydrated and any wet foliage can dry (preventing fungal issues). Using a drip tray is fine but avoid the bucket sitting constantly in water. Fertilize lightly but regularly. Strawberries are moderately heavy feeders to keep producing. A balanced liquid fertilizer (like 10-10-10 or even a tomato fertilizer) every 3-4 weeks during the growing season can keep them vigorous. Some gardeners prefer organic options like fish emulsion or a top-dress of compost mid-season. Because nutrients leach from containers, don’t forget this step or you may see yellowing leaves and diminished fruit. However, too much nitrogen can lead to lots of leaves and few berries, so maintain balance. Also, after the main summer, around late August, ease off fertilizer to let plants slow down and harden for fall/winter.

Harvesting Tips: Pluck strawberries when they are fully colored (rich red for red varieties, or whatever final color for the type) and slightly soft to the touch. Ideally, pick in the morning when they are cool, or early evening – mid-day sun-warmed berries are tempting to eat on the spot (go for it!), but if you’re storing any, they last better if picked cool. Use your fingers to pinch the stem a little above the berry or pull gently on the berry; ideally, keep the green cap on until you wash/eat them to prolong freshness. Ripe strawberries bruise easily, so handle like the precious gems they are. In peak season, you might be harvesting daily or every other day. Don’t leave overripe or rotten berries on the plant – remove them to avoid attracting pests or disease. If you find some half-eaten ones, suspect birds or slugs. Bird pecks typically come from above – consider draping bird netting or even placing some shiny tinsel or CDs near the plant to deter them. Slugs/snails leave telltale slime and usually chew low – but in a bucket, slugs are less common unless it’s touching other surfaces they climb. If slugs are an issue, copper tape around the bucket can deter them, or place a beer trap nearby. After the main flush, everbearing/day-neutral will keep sporadically producing. June-bearing (if you grew those) give one big crop then mostly runners; you’d trim runners or propagate them for next year. Remove any moldy berries promptly if grey mold (Botrytis) sets in on a fruit – increase airflow (maybe thin some leaves) and ensure you’re not wetting fruits when watering. One great thing: bucket strawberries can be moved under shelter if heavy rain threatens during ripening (to avoid waterlogged, bland berries).

Companion Plants: In the bucket, you could try a little companion planting around the edges with something like lettuce or spinach in the cooler part of the season, or maybe a few dwarf marigolds to add color and repel pests. But often, it’s best to let strawberries have their bucket to themselves, or only very small shallow-root companions, because strawberries will send runners and fill the space. A potentially beneficial companion is borage – said to enhance strawberry flavor and repel pests – but borage is a large plant, not suitable in the same small bucket. Maybe keep a separate borage plant nearby. Another friend is thyme – thyme planted at the base of strawberries (in a larger planter scenario) can repel worms and flies. In a bucket, you could stick a couple of thyme sprigs or small plants in the corners if there’s room and they cascade over, not bothering the strawberries. It might be tight though. Since Flowerdew’s advice was to go bigger on containers for bigger harvestshomesandgardens.com, some actually use larger containers or multiple buckets, but we can still apply the concept: one strong plant per bucket can yield well, or a few moderately. If you have multiple bucket strawberries, spacing buckets near each other can create a micro-climate and perhaps ramp up humidity a bit around them which they enjoy. Also, consider rotating the bucket periodically if one side of plants isn’t getting as much sun (for even growth).

Container Tips: Strawberries in buckets might need winter protection. One method: after growing season, cover the top of the soil with straw (the traditional winter mulch for strawberries) and maybe wrap the bucket in burlap. Move it to a spot that’s shielded from worst freezing winds. If in a very cold region, you might even drop the whole bucket into a larger container of insulating material (like wood chips or hay). The goal is to keep roots from freezing solid and crowns from getting frostbitten. If successful, your plants will sprout anew in spring and likely fruit even more in their second year (strawberry plants often peak in their second and third year). Do note, by year 3 or 4, they usually decline, so propagate runners or plan to replace with new stock then. Another tip: Keep an eye out for nutrient buildup or pH changes in containers with perennials. Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil (around pH 6). Using tap water over time can raise pH; if your plants show signs of iron chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins), you might need to acidify a bit (iron sulfate or an acidic fertilizer for azaleas can help). Also, flush the soil in early spring by watering heavily once to leach any salts. For pest control, aside from slugs and birds, watch for spider mites in hot dry weather (hose off leaves if seen), aphids (treat with insecticidal soap), and powdery mildew (if leaves get white powder, remove affected parts and ensure better airflow). Many modern varieties are pretty disease-resistant, especially in fresh potting mix. Lastly, as Bob Flowerdew suggested, one plant per old bucket can be perfecthomesandgardens.com – don’t overcrowd and you’ll get superb crops. If you find your bucket is producing “miserable crops,” as he said people do with small containers, upsizing to a bucket or ensuring regular watering/feeding usually fixes that. With bucket strawberries, you can savor the classic summer joy of berry picking even in the smallest of gardens. Encourage those plants with kind words (I swear it helps!) and enjoy every sweet bite.

15. Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Fragrant basil is a fantastic herb to grow in a 5-gallon bucket, providing an abundant supply of fresh leaves for pesto, salads, and seasoning. Basil thrives in containers and can actually grow into quite a bushy plant given enough root space and sunshine. It’s also a great companion to many veggies (like tomatoes and peppers), so having a bucket or two of basil near your other containers can benefit the whole mini-garden by repelling pests and attracting pollinators when it flowers. Plus, the aroma is heavenly on your patio!

Why It Thrives: Basil has relatively shallow roots and doesn’t require a huge footprint; however, a larger soil volume (like a bucket) means it won’t dry out as fast and can support a larger plant or multiple basil plants. Basil loves warm soil and consistent moisture – conditions easily provided in a bucket that heats up in the sun and can be watered regularly. In-ground, basil can be finicky about cold nights and soil that’s too dense; in a potting mix, it gets ideal drainage and warmth. Also, in a container you can position basil in prime sun and even move it indoors if a surprise late cold snap hits (basil is very frost-sensitive). Many gardeners report that container-grown basil actually grows faster because the root zone stays nice and cozy. By dedicating a whole 5-gallon bucket to basil, you can either grow one huge plant or a few plants together, resulting in a prolific mini “basil bush”.

Planting Instructions: Decide if you want one variety or multiple. Common sweet basil is popular, but there are Thai basils, purple basils, lemon basils, etc. A bucket could host one or two varieties (perhaps partitioned by space). Fill the bucket with quality potting mix enriched with some compost. Basil isn’t extremely nutrient-hungry, but appreciates fertile soil. If planting from seed: sow basil seeds on the surface (they need light to germinate) and cover with a very thin sprinkle of soil or vermiculite. Keep moist; they germinate in about 5-10 days. Thin seedlings so that each has room – ultimately, in a 12-inch surface of a bucket, you might keep maybe 3-4 basil plants evenly spaced (or fewer if you want them really large). If planting from nursery seedlings or cuttings, you can transplant 2-3 into a bucket. I’ve grown about 3 basil plants in a 12-inch pot and they filled it completely; a 5-gallon bucket is similar. You could also just plant one in the center and let it get enormous, especially some varieties that can reach 2-3 feet tall. Upon planting (or once seedlings are a few inches tall), pinch off the very top set of leaves to encourage branching. Basil loves to branch out when pinched, becoming bushier and producing more leaves. Continue to pinch every week or so the tips of each stem as it grows – this delays flowering and gives you more foliage. Make sure your bucket has good drainage holes; basil hates wet feet and can get root rot if waterlogged. Place the bucket in a sunny, warm location. Basil can also share a bucket with some other herbs like parsley or chives if you want an herb mix, but in terms of thriving, basil on its own or with a small friend is fine (just avoid mixing with something that has very different needs, like rosemary which prefers drier soil).

Sunlight & Watering: Basil loves full sun – aim for 6-8 hours of direct sun daily. In very hot climates, it can handle part sun (like a bit of afternoon shade), but generally more sun yields more flavorful oils in the leaves (and a sturdier plant). Because your bucket soil will heat up, the basil will grow quickly as long as it doesn’t dry out. Consistent watering is key. Basil has high water content (those lush leaves will wilt fast if thirsty). Keep the soil evenly moist but not swampy. Water when the top half-inch of soil is dry. In mid-summer heat, that could be daily watering, especially for a full bucket of basil leaves that are evaporating water. If leaves ever droop, water promptly and they usually perk back up. Using a mulch (like a thin layer of compost or straw) on top can help retain moisture and keep soil a bit cooler on scorching days, which basil appreciates; it likes warmth but not extreme heat stress. Fertilize basil occasionally. Because we often pick leaves, we want continuous growth. Feeding with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks is plenty if your soil had compost. Too much fertilizer (especially nitrogen) can sometimes dilute the flavor (very fast-grown basil might be less aromatic), so don’t overdo it – a moderate feeding schedule is fine. Organic options like fish emulsion or compost tea work great, supplying a mild boost. Also, because you are frequently harvesting (pruning), that in itself spurs new growth much like fertilizer would.

Harvesting Tips: The more you harvest (correctly), the more basil will produce. The key is to pinch or cut just above a pair of leaves (or node) rather than plucking single leaves from random spots. Whenever a stem has at least 6-8 leaves, you can cut it back, leaving 2-4 leaves on that stem. New branches will emerge from where you cut. This method yields a bushy plant and avoids tall, lanky growth. You can start harvesting when the plant is about 6 inches tall; never remove more than about 1/3 of the plant at a time. Regularly harvesting (even if you don’t need the leaves immediately, you can dry or freeze them, or give to friends) keeps the plant in a vegetative, productive state. Prevent flowering for as long as possible if you want leaves – once basil flowers, leaf flavor may diminish and the plant puts energy into seeds. Pinch off any flower buds that appear, unless you near the season’s end or you want to attract pollinators (basil flowers are great for bees) or save seeds. But normally, keep it from flowering by frequent harvests. If it does flower, just cut those off; if some get away from you and make seeds, maybe it’s time to start a new plant because that one might be nearing the end of its lifecycle. For use, pick leaves in the morning for best essential oil content. Fresh is best, but you can also hang bunches to dry in a shaded area or chop and freeze in ice cube trays with a bit of water or olive oil. A single bucket basil plant can yield a surprisingly large amount over a season (multiple pesto batches worth!). If you have far more than you need, consider letting one branch flower later in summer – the bees will thank you and you can collect some aromatic flowers for tea or garnish (yes, basil flowers are edible). Also, a flowering basil adds beauty and fragrance to your patio. But maintain at least one main plant as your leaf producer.

Companion Plants: Basil is famously a companion to tomatoes and peppers, said to improve their flavor and repel pests like thrips, mosquitoes, and perhaps whiteflies. While scientific evidence on flavor improvement is scant, many gardeners swear their tomatoes taste better next to basil (at least they taste better together in the kitchen!). In practical terms, placing your basil bucket near your tomato bucket is a win-win: the basil repels some pests and attracts pollinators (which tomatoes benefit from buzz pollination, and peppers from any pollination help), and in turn the taller tomato might provide a tad of midday shade to basil’s container keeping roots cooler. Just ensure the basil still gets plenty of sun and doesn’t get overshadowed. Basil also fares well near eggplants and oregano and pretty much any veggie that likes similar conditions (sun, moderate water). In the bucket itself, you could underplant basil around a central taller plant in a very large pot (some put basil at the base of potted tomatoes), but in a 5-gallon bucket, better to give basil its own home or share only with something like parsley (which has similar water needs but is shorter) or perhaps a few green onion sprigs – though honestly, I’d let basil occupy it alone for maximum yield. Basil and marigolds both repel mosquitoes, so having those buckets around seating areas is great (and they look/smell nice together). Avoid planting basil with herbs that prefer dry, sandy soil like rosemary, lavender, or sage – their needs conflict. Basil likes the richer moisture conditions akin to other leafy herbs (cilantro, chives, parsley). Interestingly, some suggest not to plant basil near rue or thyme, claiming growth may be stunted – not heavily documented, but mentionable. In separate buckets it’s moot, but don’t put rue in the same bucket as basil. Basil can actually act as a “living mulch” around a plant like a dwarf tomato in a huge pot – but again, in limited container space, better separate for ease of care.

Container Tips: Basil is sensitive to cold – don’t put it out too early in spring. Wait until nights are reliably above 50°F (10°C). If a random cold night occurs, bring the bucket indoors. Basil will also be one of the first to suffer when fall temps drop; you can prolong it by bringing indoors on chilly nights or eventually under a grow light as the season ends. Some people keep a basil plant going indoors in winter on a sunny windowsill or under lights – a bucket might be large for indoors, but you can always take cuttings from your big basil plant in late summer, root them in water (basil cuttings root easily), and pot those up to have an “indoor backup” over winter. That way, next spring you have a head start with transplants. Also, watch for pests: aphids love basil; wash them off with a spray if seen. Whiteflies might appear; sticky traps or neem can help. Fungal diseases (like downy mildew) can strike basil in humid conditions – yellowing leaves with grey fuzz underside. To avoid that, ensure good

16. Mint (Mentha spp.)

If you love a refreshing hint of mint in your tea or desserts, growing mint in a bucket is the way to go. Mint is an extremely vigorous herb – it will spread and take over a garden bed if left unchecked. By confining it to a 5-gallon bucket, you get all the lush growth and aroma without the invasive tendencies. In fact, experts *recommend growing mint in a pot to prevent it from overtaking other plantsherbexpert.co.uk】. Mint thrives in containers and is very forgiving, making it perfect for beginners.

Why It Grows Well in Buckets: Mint has a sprawling root system (rhizomes) that in the ground will shoot out in every direction. In a bucket, those roots are contained, which actually makes the plant direct its energy into producing more leaves and stems above. Mint doesn’t need deep soil – a bucket’s depth is plenty – but it enjoys the ample room to spread sideways. The bucket also allows you to control soil moisture; mint likes slightly damp soil and will wilt if it dries out completely. Another bonus: you can move the bucket to find the ideal spot, since mint tolerates full sun or partial shade. And if one area of your yard is too hot, simply relocate the bucket to a cooler corner. Containing mint separately also protects nearby plants from mint’s allelopathic effects (mint can sometimes stunt very sensitive neighbors via chemical signals) – in a bucket, it plays nice with the rest of your garden.

Planting Instructions: Start with a small mint plant or a rooted cutting (mint is very easy to propagate from cuttings). Choose your variety – common spearmint, peppermint, chocolate mint, orange mint… there are many! Any can grow in a container. Fill the bucket with a quality potting mix that retains moisture but drains well. Plant the mint at the same depth it was in its nursery pot. You can plant one mint per bucket; that one plant will soon expand to fill the whole container. If you’re planting multiple, stick to two small starters at most, and give them opposite sides of the bucket. Water it in thoroughly. Mint can handle a bit of crowding, but it’s best to let it establish then thin it periodically by pulling or cutting out some runners if it gets too dense. This ensures good airflow and healthier leaves. One handy tip: you can plant the mint while keeping it in a smaller plastic pot with holes, and then sink that pot into the soil of the bucket – this double containment further restrains the roots. However, a single bucket alone typically does the job. Just be cautious with drainage; ensure you have several holes at the bucket’s base so excess water escapes (mint likes moisture, not swampy conditions).

Sunlight & Watering: Mint is adaptable. It grows well in full sun (at least 6 hours) but also tolerates partial shade (4 hours or so). In full sun, just watch the water more closely; in partial shade, it may grow a bit slower but leaves can be very lush and tender. Ideally, give mint morning sun and afternoon light shade, especially in very hot climates, to prevent leaf scorch. Keep the soil consistently moist. Mint withers quickly if it gets too dry, but it usually bounces back after a good watering. Check your bucket daily in warm weather – if the top inch is dry, give it a drink. On average, mint in a bucket might need water every 1-2 days in summer (more in blazing heat). Having a saucer under the bucket can help catch runoff, but don’t let the plant sit in standing water for long periods. Feeding mint is rarely necessary; it’s such a hardy grower that too much fertilizer can make it leggy. A bit of compost mixed in the soil or a half-strength balanced fertilizer once or twice a season is plenty. In fact, richer soil will make it grow faster than you might know what to do with! Focus on water and light, and mint will happily take care of itself.

Harvesting Tips: You can begin harvesting mint leaves as soon as the plant has a few healthy stems of decent length (say 6-8 inches tall). Regular harvesting actually encourages mint to grow thicker and bushier. Pinch or cut sprigs just above a leaf node (the point where leaves pair on the stem). This will cause the plant to branch out at that point. You can harvest just a few leaves at a time for a recipe, or cut entire sprigs. If you need a large harvest (for a big batch of mojitos or mint jelly, for example), try not to remove more than one-third of the foliage at once; then let the plant recover for a week or two before heavy harvesting again. Mint can be cut repeatedly throughout the season. If you notice it starting to form flower buds, pinch those off unless you want the plant to bloom. The flavor is best before flowering. However, mint flowers are pretty and loved by pollinators, so you might let a few bloom later in the season when you’ve already gotten plenty of leaves. The flavor in leaves can get slightly stronger or slightly bitter once it flowers, so many gardeners keep removing buds to prolong the tender new growth phase. Use fresh-cut mint immediately for best flavor, or store stems in water like cut flowers for a couple of days. You can also dry or freeze mint easily if you end up with a surplus. In fall, mint will start to die back (it’s perennial in most climates). If you live where winters freeze, the top will brown and die – you can trim it down and place the bucket in a sheltered spot. The mint will likely return in spring from the roots. One great thing: because it’s in a bucket, you can even bring the bucket into a garage or unheated sunroom to overwinter, giving it a better chance to sprout early next year.

Companion Plants: As mentioned, mint should not share a container with other herbs or veggies, because it will out-compete them. Keep it in its own bucket. But you can place the mint bucket near other plants to impart pest-repelling benefits. The strong scent of mint is known to deter aphids, cabbage moths, and ants. For example, a mint bucket near your cabbage or kale containers might help confuse cabbage butterflies. A bucket near the patio or door can also discourage ants or mice from crossing that area (anecdotal, but many swear by mint for pest control). Just remember that mint’s aroma can potentially affect the taste of very close neighbors in raised beds if planted together – but in separate buckets, that’s not a worry. One fun companion use: place a mint bucket near your seating area; the aroma can help keep mosquitoes at bay somewhat and you’ll have a handy supply of leaves to crush and rub on your skin as a natural repellant. Also, the flowers of mint (if allowed) will attract beneficial insects, which is a plus for the whole garden. Essentially, think of your mint bucket as both an herb source and a pest-repellent planter that you can move around as needed. Just avoid physically planting mint in the same soil as your other herbs or veggies. In the bucket environment, mint truly shines on its own, safe from taking over and free to do its verdant, refreshing thing.

17. Green Onions (Scallions and Chives)

Want a continuous supply of scallions for your salads and soups? Green onions (scallions) grow beautifully in 5-gallon buckets. These are among the easiest edibles to cultivate in containers, and they have a quick turnaround time from planting to harvest. Whether you start from seeds, sets (bulblets), or even kitchen scraps (the white ends of store-bought green onions will re-sprout), a bucket can provide you with bunch after bunch of fresh onion greens. We’ll also lump chives in here, as they have a similar form and can be grown alongside scallions – chives are a perennial herb, essentially a type of small onion, and thrive in containers as well.

Why They Thrive: Green onions have shallow roots and slender profiles, so they don’t need a huge surface area. A 5-gallon bucket can accommodate a surprising number of scallions in a cluster or in “rows” across the diameter. The bucket allows for loose, rich soil which helps the white onion shanks (the lower part) grow long and uniform. In heavy clay ground soil, scallions might be stumpy, but in fluffy potting mix they elongate nicely. Buckets also make it easy to control moisture – scallions like regular water – and to position the onions in full sun which they prefer. Another plus: by raising them off the ground, you reduce issues with soil pests and make harvesting easier (no bending to ground level to snip them). If you keep cutting and re-growing, a bucket environment with steady nutrients means the onions can regenerate multiple times. Essentially, they are well-suited to intensive planting, and a bucket lets you create a mini “onion patch” in a small space, even on an apartment balcony.

Planting Instructions: If starting from seeds, fill the bucket with good potting mix and sow seeds thinly on the surface, then cover with about 1/4 inch of fine soil. You can sow in a grid or scatter pattern; don’t worry too much about perfect spacing because you can thin later. Another method is to sow in concentric circles or rows across the bucket. Green onion seeds germinate in about 1-2 weeks. Once they’re a few inches tall like grass, thin them out so that they’re roughly 1/2 inch to 1 inch apart. Honestly, scallions tolerate crowding quite well, so you can leave them in clumps and they’ll still grow (you’ll just harvest whole clumps). If using sets (tiny onion bulbs) or transplanting seedlings, plant them about 1 inch deep and 1-2 inches apart. You can fit maybe 20 or more in a 5-gallon bucket if spacing about an inch apart in a grid – they’ll be snug but will grow upright. The nice thing with sets is they’re fast and fairly foolproof; stick them pointy side up into the soil, cover lightly, and water. For chives, you can either seed them or transplant a clump into the bucket. Chives will form a dense clump over time; one or two chive plants is enough per bucket (or add them around the edges while using the center for scallions). Ensure your bucket has drainage holes. Onions don’t like to be waterlogged, though they appreciate even moisture. Mix a bit of balanced fertilizer or compost into the soil at planting to give them a good start (especially for repeated cuttings, they’ll need some feeding).

Sunlight & Watering: Full sun is ideal for green onions and chives – aim for at least 6 hours of direct sun. They can tolerate partial shade (especially in very hot regions) but might grow slower or not get as robust. In good sun, you’ll have sturdy, flavorful greens. Keep the soil consistently moist. Because these alliums are mostly water (think of how crisp a fresh scallion is), they need regular watering. Check the bucket daily; water when the top half-inch of soil is dry. In summer heat, that could mean watering every day or every other day. The good news: onions are somewhat drought-tolerant short-term (they won’t keel over immediately), but letting them dry out can cause tips to brown and growth to stall, so best to keep up with watering. Using mulch like straw or even a thin layer of dried grass can help retain moisture around the roots. Fertilizer: since scallions are often harvested quickly (in 6-8 weeks from seed, or even sooner from sets), they don’t need heavy feeding initially. If you plan to continuously harvest and regrow, give them a light dose of balanced soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion every 3-4 weeks to replenish nutrients. Chives, being perennial, appreciate a bit of organic fertilizer in spring to push new growth and perhaps once mid-season. Watch for pale coloring – if the green onion leaves start looking yellowish, that’s a sign they’re hungry or water-stressed. Generally, with decent soil and some compost, they do fine.

Harvesting Tips: You can begin harvesting green onions when they reach about pencil thickness or whenever they seem a usable size for your needs. For scallions, many people like them when the white stem is 3-4 inches long and the total length maybe 8-12 inches. You have two main harvesting methods:

Harvest whole scallions: Use a gentle tug or dig around the base and pull up the entire plant (white bulb and green tops). If you planted thickly, you might harvest every other one to allow remaining onions to size up a bit more. This is good if you need a bunch for a recipe. You can also harvest in clumps – since they were spaced close, pulling a clump of 3-4 that grew together is fine.
Cut-and-come-again: This works well for chives and can for scallions too if you only need the green parts. Use scissors to cut the green leaves about 1 inch above the soil line. The onions will regrow from the cut (chives especially will send up new shoots quickly; scallions will too, though after a couple cuttings the white base can get a bit fatter and more oniony – at that point they might be more like leeks). This method lets you keep the roots in place and get multiple harvests. It’s best done once the plants are established (not tiny seedlings).